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Alex Puccio & Chris Webb Parsons, 2013 Bouldering World Cup – Where In The World, Pt 1

Posted May 28, 2013 at 3:45 pm · Comments { 0 } ·
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→ Favresse Frees Hard Crack Project In Norway∞

Posted May 28, 2013 at 7:54 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Belgian climber Nicolas Favresse has done the FA of The Recovery Drink in Jossingfjord, Norway, calling it his hardest crack climb yet1:

I sent the pitch placing gear on lead except for a few pieces in the easier sections which I had left in place to make it easier to clean the route after each try, because it’s very overhanging. So a slightly purer ascent could still be done. The pitch is about 35m long and has no bolts, neither on the route itself nor at the belays.

You can see some footage of the route here.

  1.  Bear in mind that Favresse is no stranger to hard crack climbing having repeated lines like Squamish’s Cobra Crack (5.14) ↩
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Ethan Pringle Climbing Joe Blau (5.14c)

Posted May 28, 2013 at 7:40 am · Comments { 0 } ·
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Granite Earth

Posted May 27, 2013 at 10:23 am · Comments { 14 } ·
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A Day On The Diamond With Josh Wharton

Posted May 24, 2013 at 10:17 am · Comments { 0 } ·
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Woods And Robinson Send The Ice Knife (V15)

Posted May 23, 2013 at 11:49 am · Comments { 7 } ·
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→ Ticking Time Bombs∞

Posted May 23, 2013 at 8:35 am · Comments { 0 } ·

More reminders if you need them that sport climbing is not to be taken lightly:

Exhibit A is the close call experienced by Mike Doyle when the sling on a (fixed) draw broke during a fall.

Exhibit B is this bolt pulled removed from a popular route in the Red River Gorge.

Exhibit C is…well, the list goes on.

Eschewing fixed draws is one thing, but the implicit trust that is placed in fixed hardware like bolts is harder to square and is surely one of the most important issues facing climbers in the next decade.

DPM has a nice article laying out some even more recent fixed hardware issues from around the world along with some ideas on what can be done.

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