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Send Train On The Shining Path

Nalle Hukkataival, Daniel Woods & Jimmy Webb run train on an amazing highball in Nevada

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Ganesh

Paige Claassen, after making the FFA of the amazing looking route Ganesh (5.14) in Badami, India:

Ganesh would become the inspiration behind Lead Now. I wanted to climb some of the most obscure, beautiful sport lines in the world, in locations that would force me to learn about myself, about the world, and about the people in it.
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What better place than India?

This ascent continues Claassen’s string of successes on this trip which have included the FA of Digital Warfare (5.14a) in South Africa and the 2nd ascent of Art Attack (5.14b) in Italy.  Learn more about her Lead Now Tour and the charities she is supporting by visiting the tour’s website.

See also:  this video of Gerome Pouvreau doing the route’s FA.

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Alex Honnold & Peter Croft Video Interview

Video interview with Alex Honnold & Peter Croft

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LT11.tv Live Talkshow #5 – 12/9/2013 – 6:00pm MST – Jason Kehl & Rob D’Anastasio

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That Didn’t Take Long

Jimmy Webb & Daniel Woods repeat Meadowlark Lemon in Red Rock, NV

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Third 5.15c FA By Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra has done his 3rd 5.15c FA1 with the FA of Vasil Vasil at Sloup in his native Czech Republic.  Ondra comments on the route in this interview with UKC:

It might be weird that I am so happy after having done such a “piece of shit” (referring to the fact that the route is short, painful and in a dirty place), but it was really important for me. The existence of those holds, the seeming impossibility irritated me for a long time… I bolted it 5 years ago and I was urged to send it… One day… And so I did. Better now than never.

A couple of things strike me about this.  First, 5.15c is starting to sound like not that big of a deal, but it’s worth remembering that this grade has been climbed only a few times in history by a grand total of two people2.  Second, it’s refreshing to see that not only is Ondra Brave & Humble™ when it comes to grading but also when it comes to the quality of the routes he does.  You’ll remember he made similar comments about a possible V16, Terranova, that he did in the Czech Republic back in 2011:

In registering the ascent on his 8a.nu scorecard Ondra calls the problem “not the most inspiring line” and indicates that the it is a traverse along the bottom of a sport climbing crag.  About the 12 move line he also says, “definitely not the way bouldering should look like”.

Both Terranova and Vasil Vasil strike me as the type of climbs that are very unlikely to be repeated in the near term but are good candidates for the next Adam Ondra to repeat in 10-20 years once they’re done onsighting and repeating all the other 5.15s in the world.

  1.  After Change and La Dura Dura
  2.  So far…
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Is Your Gym Guilty Of Music Piracy?

Interesting:

At this very moment, climbing gyms across America are pumping pop, rock, reggae and other background music into their facilities to entertain customers while they climb or work out. Whether the music came from CDs or MP3s, satellite radio or streaming music services like Pandora and Spotify — or whatever other music service their hip, young staff have discovered — chances are the music being played is in violation of federal law.
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