DPM catches up with Alex Johnson for a wide-ranging interview about sexism, the balancing act between climbing in comps and climbing outside and sponsorship:
I think it should be difficult to get sponsored, like in surfing or snowboarding. We would have a more select group of positive role models and icons in our community for reasons other than just ability.
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Great interview with Adam Ondra over at Mountains and Water:
I have always taken climbing really seriously. Climbing hard and obtaining my goals has always been very important. It was very difficult to admit failure and I did get frustrated. But at same time, it has always been a perfect and beautiful game to play.
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Dave MacLeod touches on a topic I unfortunately have way too much experience with: figuring out how much of a lay-off is necessary to recover from injury
The basic rationale for lay-off is to allow the tissue some rest and a chance to recover from it’s severely compromised state. There are quite a few assumptions built into the decision to completely rest the tissue. First, that the tissue will really benefit from complete withdrawal from the sport. Unfortunately, this isn’t strictly true.
Finish your book on injuries soon, Dave, before it’s too late for me!
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Speaking of the Hueco Rock Rodeo, Sean McColl was five double-digit problems into his day when this happened:
At 2:39pm on March 3rd, 2012, I made the second1 flash of Nagual V13 (8B) in Hueco Tanks. This is hardest flash I’ve ever completed.
I’m not sure which is harder to fathom: McColl flashing a V13 that late in the day or the fact that his 3 V11, 1 V12, 2 V13 effort was only good enough for third place in the Rodeo??
The Access Fund has announced the recipients of both their Sharp End Awards and their Adopt a Crag and TeamWorks Awards. The Sharp End Awards seek to recognize “individuals and businesses that go above and beyond to volunteer their time and efforts to protecting America’s climbing” while the Adopt a Crag and TeamWorks awards are for outstanding volunteer event coordinators. Congratulations to all the winners and a big thank you for all your hard work!
After a 10th place finish at ABS Nationals, Jimmy Webb headed north to RMNP where he made a one day repeat of Daniel Woods’ Mirror Reality (V14). Here’s what Webb had to say about it on his 8a scorecard:
1 day, 2nd ascent. Very much my style. Amazing day with a dope crew! Props to Daniel on the FA. One more day of climbing on the Front Range!
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Update: Webb has also done the 5th ascent of Echale at Clear Creek, a problem also first done by Daniel Woods
Just a day or two after Daila Ojeda did the FFA of Mind Control (5.14c) at Oliana Nina Caprez succeeded in redpointing the route as well. She calls the route a “perfect line” on her blog where she also had this to say about the grade:
The grade of Mind Control is really not extreme. If somebody will downgread, why not.
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But honestly, grades are so unimportant.
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I’ve had the chance to climb such a fantastic line and I feel so alive and my body is full of energy and power. I can realize my dreams, what else counts in live?
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