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Tony Scott

Posted August 22, 2012 at 6:12 am · Comments { 10 } ·

I told myself I wouldn’t link to Rock & Ice until they made the font on their site more readable, but Alison Osius’ piece on her connection to Tony Scott, the acclaimed movie director who took his own life last weekend, is well worth reading:

Scott survived soloing Cenotaph Corner, but jumped off the 185-foot Vincent Thomas Bridge, Los Angeles Harbor. At midday, knowing what he was doing. He was a gutsy man. He loved the same things we all do. Space, and sharing the high outdoors, and focus.

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PlanetMountain Interviews Fred Nicole

Posted August 9, 2012 at 8:20 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Fred Nicole:

If I’m in a new place though then the only choice I have is to open new lines. And this is one of the things I like most!

Legend.

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Plaid Is Rad

Posted August 7, 2012 at 1:09 pm · Comments { 3 } ·

I’m a little late with my standard disclaimer about how I’m not attending last week’s Summer Outdoor Retailer Trade Show in Salt Lake City, but if I had actually attended I would have undoubtedly been a prime candidate for Justin Roth’s collection of outdoor folks wearing the “unofficial uniform of Outdoor Retailer”.

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First Repeat Of Caldwell’s The Honeymoon Is Over (5.13c) By Jonathan Siegrist

Posted August 7, 2012 at 12:57 pm · Comments { 1 } ·

Jonathan Siegrist with a little background on his latest project, Tommy Caldwell’s The Honeymoon Is Over (5.13c) on the Diamond of Long’s Peak:

‘The Honeymoon is Over’ was originally an Aid route (VI- 5.10 A3+) and later was equipped with bolts for free climbing, largely in an effort by bad-ass Eric Doub in the mid 90s. Tommy Caldwell freed the rig in the summer of 2001, in an extremely impressive effort, calling it one of his hardest days out (still). It has not seen a repeat since.

No repeats until this past weekend that is.  Hit the above link for Siegrist’s report on his send.  If you’re like me and you enjoy learning more about Tommy Caldwell and his influence on the Colorado sport climbing scene I’d recommend checking out the 20-minute short movie Icon1.  The movie features an interview with Caldwell with footage of Nick Duttle, Jonathan Siegrist and Caldwell himself all climbing a 5.14 in Colorado mixed in2.  Good stuff.

  1.  Trailer here ↩
  2. Is it too late for them to get some footage of Siegrist on Honeymoon??? ↩
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Alex Honnold 60 Minutes Piece Nominated For Emmy

Posted August 7, 2012 at 6:09 am · Comments { 3 } ·

Congrats are in order for Chris Albert, John DeTarsio, Peter Mortimer, Rob Frost, Mikey Schaefer, Ben Ditto, Kyle Berkompass and Dave Turner who were nominated for an Emmy in the Outstanding Individual Achievement in a Craft:  Video Journalism – News category for their work on the Alex Honnold 60 Minutes piece.

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Wyoming’s Potential

Posted August 6, 2012 at 7:00 am · Comments { 4 } ·

Mike Williams with a great post about one of the many new routes he bolted in Wyoming this summer:

For a century, Steamboat the bucking horse has symbolized the spirit of the state. Wild and still untamed, it’s possible to step off of any road in Wyoming and find yourself in immediate wilderness. The countryside in the Bighorns will never be reigned in. They’re too big, too wild, and hold too many secrets.
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5.14b For Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou

Posted July 26, 2012 at 10:16 am · Comments { 0 } ·

In a repeat of what happened earlier this year in the Red River Gorge, 49-year-old Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou has followed closely on the heels of 11-year-old daughter Brooke’s success in repeating Welcome To Tijuana (5.14b) in Rodellar, Spain.  Like Brooke, this was Robyn’s first of the grade, and while I’m not willing to get as hyperbolic as the fine folks at 8a.nu, Robyn’s career is pretty remarkable: multiple time World Cup champion, 5.14a back in the 90’s, multiple 5.
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14as in the past few weeks and now this.

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