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→ The Day I Sent The Nest∞

Posted January 8, 2014 at 7:57 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Daniel Woods:

On the day I sent The Nest, we first stopped at another project in this wash, which we had been walking by and looking at multiple times on our way to The Nest. In a team FA effort, Jimmy, Nalle and I climbed this beautiful new boulder. Doing this other problem, as opposed to just gunning for the main prize, helped boost our confidence and take away some of the nervous pressure I think we were all feeling toward The Nest.
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→ Your Project Can Wait∞

Posted January 7, 2014 at 8:23 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Interesting picture over at the RV Project which seems to show damage to one of the more photogenic boulders at Tennessee’s Little Rock City due to the possible use of a blowtorch.  As is pointed out in their post, we climbers do a lot of things that don’t exactly follow the Leave No Trace ethic, but using a blowtorch is something I can’t ever think of a good reason for doing.
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 Sure, it may help you in the short term, but anyone who tells you they know the long term impact of using one is either lying to you, lying to themselves or both.
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The use of a blowtorch seems to be driven by the same selfish pursuit that drives people to climb where they’re not supposed to, park where they’re not supposed to, shit where they’re not supposed to and so on.
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 Given how difficult it has been to police those other behaviors I’m not terribly optimistic when it comes to our ability to curtail the use of blowtorches, but that doesn’t mean we shouldn’t try.

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→ Top 10 Access Victories Of 2013∞

Posted January 6, 2014 at 8:27 am · Comments { 0 } ·

2013 was a big year for the Access Fund.

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→ The Day I Sent∞

Posted January 2, 2014 at 7:48 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Cool new series from Andrew Bisharat on his blog Evening Sends called The Day I Sent which features a guest author writing about a meaningful ascent they did.  The latest installment is written by Emily Harrington who chronicles her send of Waka Flocka (5.14b) back in 2011.  Previous installments were written by Dan Mirsky and Mirko Caballero about their respective sends of Solid Gold (5.14c) and Evilution Direct (V11).

In the event that Bisharat runs out of people to write these posts, I’d like to suggest  companion series like The Day I Didn’t Send or The Day I Belayed Someone While They Sent.
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→ America’s Best 5.14s∞

Posted December 18, 2013 at 9:15 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Lists are all the rage on the internet these days and they are usually pretty much the worst thing ever. Then there is this list of the best 5.14s in America compiled by Jonathan Siegrist which is the opposite.  I love this kind of thing.  Now let’s do one for the only grade that really matters in the world:  V7.
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→ Keeping It All In Perspective∞

Posted December 18, 2013 at 8:39 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Nice interview over at Crux Crush with one of my favorite people in the climbing world, Angie Payne:

If I could climb all the time? I wouldn’t. It’s really easy when I’m working all the time to be like, ‘I just want to be climbing all the time.’ But like I said there’ve been little times when I’ve tried to do that and I just don’t push myself as much because I’m like, well I can climb whenever I want, so whatever, I just won’t go out today.
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But when you have to schedule it, then you get there and you’re like, ‘This is my time.
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I’m climbing now, here I am and I need to make the most of it.
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’

Amen, sister.

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→ Ganesh∞

Posted December 15, 2013 at 9:33 pm · Comments { 0 } · Photo: Jon Glassberg

Paige Claassen, after making the FFA of the amazing looking route Ganesh (5.14) in Badami, India:

Ganesh would become the inspiration behind Lead Now. I wanted to climb some of the most obscure, beautiful sport lines in the world, in locations that would force me to learn about myself, about the world, and about the people in it.
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What better place than India?

This ascent continues Claassen’s string of successes on this trip which have included the FA of Digital Warfare (5.14a) in South Africa and the 2nd ascent of Art Attack (5.14b) in Italy.  Learn more about her Lead Now Tour and the charities she is supporting by visiting the tour’s website.

See also:  this video of Gerome Pouvreau doing the route’s FA.

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