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→ Chasing Goals Not Grades∞

Posted March 17, 2014 at 9:39 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Nice interview by Crux Crush with Alex Puccio:

I want to push myself outside. I haven’t tried many V13s so maybe I’ll try to do my first V13, but I don’t like chasing a grade.
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I like to find a climb, and it’d be great if I found a climb that’s hard for me, but I have to be inspired by it. Everyone’s like, “You can climb V13, probably V14. Why haven’t you gone and found one?” But that’s the thing, I don’t want to go search for one. I like climbing outside because it’s fun and I want to try hard things, but I want it to come organically. I’ve never tried anything longer than 3 or 4 days.

It’s kind of crazy to think that Puccio has never done a V13 given her obvious talent and all her success on the comp circuit, but surely it’s just a matter of time.
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→ More Details On Death Of Mark Hesse∞

Posted March 13, 2014 at 7:09 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Longtime climber and conservationist Mark Hesse died while climbing at the Boulder Rock Club this past January, but until this week it was unclear what actually caused his death.  While it is still not entirely clear what happened since nobody witnessed the accident, this article in the Boulder Camera seems to indicate this may have been another instance where a climber thought they were clipped into an auto belay system when in fact they were not:

The climber who was found in January after falling at the Boulder Rock Club died from blunt trauma, not a medical problem, officials said, and the popular climbing gym has since started using a new belay device to improve safety.

If that is what happened, this is the 2nd such incident to happen in the past 6 months.

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→ International Women’s Day∞

Posted March 12, 2014 at 8:26 am · Comments { 0 } ·

I enjoyed reading these interviews the American Alpine Club did with Emily Harrington, Paige Claassen, Melissa Arnot, Sibylle Hechetel, Janet Bergman Wilkinson and Jenn Fleming over the weekend to commemorate International Women’s Day.  I particularly liked Flemming’s take on the biggest misconception about women in climbing:

I think that the biggest misconception about women in climbing is that emotion is a weakness. Men and women climb, behave, and react along a spectrum of emotion; often the typically “female” reaction (e.g. tears or other overly emotional behavior) is perceived as a weakness. In actuality, we all cope with stress in a very individual manner, and there is no objective “best way” to do so.
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→ The Hidden Industry Of Hold Manufacturing∞

Posted March 6, 2014 at 1:14 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Interesting piece in Climbing Business Journal about the industry behind many of the holds we pull down on in gyms around the country:

For some hold companies, there seems to be no upside in disclosing that they no longer manufacture their holds in-house. The climbing industry has embraced the romantic image of the passionate climber shaping and pouring holds in their garage.
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But to succeed in today’s crowded marketplace, hold companies need professional production facilities that can fulfill modern expectations of quality, consistency, durability and efficiency, while providing a safe environment for the employees that are being exposed to urethane fumes and sanding particulates on a daily basis.

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→ For Climbing’s Indoor Champions, Will The Great Outdoors Become Irrelevant?∞

Posted March 5, 2014 at 7:44 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Interesting question raised by Chris Weidner in his column for Boulder’s Daily Camera with regard to the possibility of someone winning a comp like ABS Nationals without climbing outside much if at all:

But as the strongest competitors specialize on indoor training walls, will rock climbing itself —that is, climbing rocks — become obsolete for competition climbers?

At some point I think this is certainly possible, especially as gyms continue to grow and comp problems continue to diverge from anything resembling “real” rock climbs1.  However, in the near term I find this prospect unlikely as rising stars like Mirko Caballero and Ashima Shiraishi — both of whom are years away from being old enough to compete in ABS Nationals — already have impressive ticklists years before they will even be able to drive a car.

Another factor is that especially here in the U.
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S., competitions do not hold the same weight for the public and sponsors as do outdoor exploits.
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 That may change, but until that time it doesn’t seem like the incentives to focus solely on indoor climbing and competitions at a professional level is really there2.

It is worth noting also that Daniel Woods won this year’s ABS Nationals despite not having climbed in a gym at all in the months leading up to the event.  Then again, when you’ve won 7 times previously as Woods had, maybe you don’t need as much practice?
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  1.  See:  jump starts, committing sideways jumps, downward moving finishes and the like being part of the problem mix at both adult and youth ABS Nationals the past couple of weekends ↩
  2.  Although it seems to be getting there sooner for female climbers than male climbers, but that is a topic for a different post ↩
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→ His Life In His Hands∞

Posted March 4, 2014 at 8:02 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Interesting profile of Alex Honnold in Men’s Fitness by Josh Dean that includes this tidbit on that building climb that was first announced last July:

And yet, the checks keep getting bigger. Honnold will receive the largest payday of his life—“by far”—if his next big mission comes to fruition. For the better part of a year, he and his friend Peter Mortimer, founder of Sender Films, have been plotting to have Honnold free-solo one of the world’s tallest buildings, Taiwan’s Taipei 101. But Honnold says such a bold, Vegas-style stunt isn’t about the money. It’s about the challenge, the fun (“Because it’s there!
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” he says), and hopefully he can raise the profile of the sport, which has precious few followers.
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Climbing is a highly specialized undertaking, after all, performed in the wilderness, and regular people—those without the right gear or binoculars—just don’t get it. Climbing a building, on the other hand, translates easily, argues Honnold. “Anyone who’s mainstream is like, ‘Skyscraper!’ ” he says. “They get it.”

Honnold scouted buildings all over the planet before settling on the world’s third tallest, which has 101 stories and is 1,474 feet tall, not counting the spire. Initially, National Geographic planned to televise the climb live in prime time (in partnership with ABC), and had even begun promoting it, then backed out—for now, at least.

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→ The Day I Did Not Send Joe Blau∞

Posted March 3, 2014 at 7:59 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Greg Kerzhner, writing about his efforts to send Joe Blau in Oliana, Spain:

A sad feeling comes.  Like this is my one chance to finish this thing, the one thing I really cared about for over a month of my life, but like I have no chance of actually doing it because I am fucked, too exhausted to go on.  I try to curb that feeling, take a deep breath, and finish business.
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