Another Day At The Office For Adam Ondra & Sasha DiGiulian

Posted September 8, 2011 at 8:00 am · Comments { 6 } · Photo: Adam Ondra on Perlorodka (5.15a) by Petr Pavlièek

Another day at the office yields 5.15 and V15 FAs for Adam Ondra and a 5.14a onsight for Sasha DiGiulian

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Adam Ondra, Sasha DiGiulian

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Holstejn, Rodellar

Wheel Of Life Repeated By James Kassay

Posted September 7, 2011 at 8:00 am · Comments { 3 } ·

About two years after he climbed the epic Hollow Mountain Cave link-up Sleepy Rave, James Kassay managed to send the epic Hollow Mountain Cave link-up Wheel Of Life which adds a V9 on the front end of the aforementioned Sleepy Rave. It could be argued that Wheel Of Life is more of a route than a boulder problem (just check out the 12 minute video Ethan Pringle climbing the line), but Kassay registered his ascent as V16 on his 8a scorecard and commented that he’s now trying a “direct” version of the problem.

Update: Kassay updated his blog with some interesting thoughts on the ascent including why it may have taken him longer than some would have thought to put together the full Wheel Of Life:

Call me stubborn, crazy or out right stupid if you must but climbing the full length of the cave wasn’t just a matter of getting from one end to the other the easiest possible way. Ethan was confused as to why I didn’t want to use the “easier beta” of putting on knee pads and milking the knee bar rests that are otherwise impossible to use…
Ultimately I set myself a personal goal and that was the way I was going to do it.

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James Kassay

· Areas { 1 }

Grampians

Notable Repeats By Daniel Woods In Austria

Posted September 6, 2011 at 7:55 pm · Comments { 22 } · Photo: Daniel Woods sending Anam Cara by Courtney Sanders

Daniel Woods ticks off two hard Bernd Zangerl problems in the mountains of Silvretta, Austria

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Courtney Sanders, Daniel Woods

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Silvretta

Lucifer (5.14c) Repeated (Again) By Adam Taylor

Posted September 6, 2011 at 7:35 am · Comments { 4 } ·

In a post summarizing what sounded like a pretty miserable Labor Day weekend weather-wise at the Red River Gorge, the folks at the Team Saucisson blog casually dropped the fact that low key local Adam Taylor repeated Lucifer (5.14c). Taylor had previously done many of the Red’s other hard routes like Pure Imagination (5.14d) and his route Golden Ticket (5.14d).

Update: Well, I jumped the gun a bit as Taylor was simply repeating Lucifer again, not for the first time. Thanks to Eddie for helping to set me straight.
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Adam Taylor

· Areas { 1 }

Red River Gorge

Bad Girls Club (5.14d) Repeated By Jonathan Siegrist

Posted September 5, 2011 at 5:28 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Not long after its FA by Matty Hong, Jonathan Siegrist has, according to my spies, done the 2nd ascent of Bad Girls Club (5.14d) in Rifle, CO. More details to come, I’m sure, on Siegrists’ excellent blog.

Update: As expected, Siegrist has posted about the send which came on his 8th try:

3 rests, nearly a hundred moves and 17 bolts later, I was clipping chains. Very pleased. First and foremost, Joey Kinder deserves a shout out – he put in tons of effort on this thing, cleaning it up, equipping it and giving it love. (sorry I doubted you man! this is a RAD addition, and a worthy Colorado test-piece). Secondly, Matty Hong – a really impressive effort… Matty has become a true king of this style, having done almost every hard route in the canyon, psyched for you man!

Update 2: Siegrist also sent The Crew (5.14c) and talks about both sends in this interview with Rock & Ice

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