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Wheel Of Life Repeated By Ian Dory

Posted June 20, 2012 at 4:30 pm · Comments { 12 } ·

Ian Dory is back in Australia again with Dave Graham and Nalle Hukkataival after a successful 2011 trip that he recapped in this excellent report. In that post Dory mentions his efforts on Dai Koyamada’s Grampians testpiece The Wheel Of Life:

Overall the climb is a combination of 5 boulder problems: v9, v12, v9, v11, v8. After climbing with James Kassay I have been incredibly motivated to come back and take it down next trip.
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But what James has also taught me is that this climb takes time and is truly hands down difficult.
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It looks like Dory’s motivation paid off as he was able to complete the full problem for its likely 7th ascent a few days ago.
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∞ · Comments { 12 } · Climbers { 1 }

Ian Dory

· Areas { 1 }

Grampians

5.14d FA By Ethan Pringle

Posted June 19, 2012 at 8:58 am · Comments { 62 } ·

In a lengthy catch up-style blog entry, Ethan Pringle eventually gets around to mentioning that he did the FA of an old Joe Brooks project at Mt. Charleston, NV called Arrested Development. He describes the potentially 5.14d route as fun, heavily chipped and pretty hard:

I spent about 5 days on it this year, giving it 2-3 tries per day. I managed to send the route on my first try on my fifth day in May.
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While the route is manufactured, and heavily in spots, it is still one of the most fun to climb on routes I’ve ever done

∞ · Comments { 62 } · Climbers { 1 }

Ethan Pringle

· Areas { 1 }

Mt. Charleston

Florine & Honnold Blaze New Speed Record On The Nose

Posted June 18, 2012 at 7:14 am · Comments { 17 } · Photo: The crowd gathered to watch Hans Florine and Alex Honnold race up The Nose

Alex Honnold & Hans Florine team up to break the speed record on The Nose

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Alex Honnold, Hans Florine

· Areas { 1 }

Yosemite

Some People Are Fast Healers…

Posted June 14, 2012 at 6:36 pm · Comments { 7 } ·

Here I am sitting on the couch 2+ weeks after surgery on my ankle after a frustratingly uneventful sport climbing injury that occurred almost two months ago, and Pamela Shanti Pack is out in Vedauwoo crushing the FA of a heinous offwidth just days after multiple surgeries because of a bad fall off said heinous offwidths. Don’t I feel like a slacker…

Based on my history, I’m guessing I should steer clear of even looking at anything that resembles an offwidth, but if you’re into that sort of thing there is more visual goodness from Vedauwoo here.

∞ · Comments { 7 } · Climbers { 1 }