I really do hate the “island” footage. Recording the recording of Dave Graham? Making it incredibly difficult to hear his response by covering it up with music and sound effects? Using visual effects to create the first intentionally “low-def” climbing footage? 30 seconds of nothing but a punk song? Showing a repeat of the crux sequence immediately after the entire problem? It’s like they wanted to use the entire song but ran out of ways to extend the footage.
Great climb, awful video. It’s just too bad.
I totally agree with you Josh..This could have been so much better without all the so called “Jazz” I was looking forward to this video and was not impressed with the quality at all.
Good Song Choice , Bad Video ..
Agreed on the above. Terrible, terrible video.
If I were any of these pros (especially a guy like Dave Graham), I wouldn’t let the dude who made this video anywhere NEAR a session with a camera. He makes them and the sport look bad.
I thought it was entertaining. Glad that some people are experimenting with the style of bouldering videos, since it seems like the genre has a quick tendency to go stale.
Cool. Nice to see something other than the typical video: approach shot, pad strapped to the back of a climber walking through the woods, close-up of leaves and spider webs, stream and branches, tight crisp focus on the climber, soft focus on the margins, to a soundtrack of bloops, blips and bleeps, like an infant’s electronic mobile hanging over the crib. Black Flag? Nice work, Chad Greedy. Give us more.
possibly the worst video ever
I’d imagine the FA footage is a well protected element – awaiting a DVD/HD release. No? That’s probably why we got a teaser vid like this. It was cool to see the problem – I had the sound off.
The FA footage has already been released, on the Reel Rock 2010 DVD. If you want to see the crisp HD, pay the money.
Chad is putting videos out for free, you ungrateful punks should consider yourselves lucky he still puts out any video at all with all the complaining you guys do. No one is forcing you to watch it.
I enjoy watching a video with a unique look, and I especially enjoy listening to kick-ass music instead of the absolute crap that most climbing vids use . . .
Ungrateful? Yes, I PAID to download the Island Vol. 0, and it was NOT worth the 10 bucks despite the big names and the big sends. Compare that to the stuff that Alex Savage puts out (Orange Crush is a STEAL at 5 bucks, buy it!) and you can clearly see the difference in quality. Additionally, if Chad Greedy weren’t putting out videos of Dave Graham and Daniel Woods, someone else would be. In order to remain a sponsored athlete, these climbers have to maintain a presence amongst the climbing community. In many ways, this means videos (most of them free) of their recent ascents. It’s a two-way street, it serves the fans as well as the climbers. As a fan of climbing videos I appreciate them, but it’s not like they are releasing them solely out of the kindness of their heart. Ultimately it increases their commercial appeal.
For the record, I had no issue with the choice of music. I just don’t understand why Chad Greedy is following around the best climbers in the world just to put out a vastly inferior product. I know not everything can be Big UP or Chuck Fryberger high production quality, but Alex Savage and Keith Bradbury are both just climbers with a camera and a tripod and they put out amazing stuff.
You’re right on a lot of points. Orange Crush was great! And yes, Keith Bradbury and Alex Savage have made high quality films with fairly low budget equipment! But you know what else? All those films, along with Big Up and Fryberger films, all kinda look the same. I don’t see why there isn’t room for someone like Chad Greedy, who clearly views filmmaking as more of an artistic outlet that a “show a climb and climber in HD and call it a day” type of thing.
I though The Island Vol. 0 was well worth 10 bucks. We got over an hour of footage of great climbs and great climbers, that you can watch over and over to get psyched. Most people spend more than that on beers at the bar after a day of climbing.
Don’t forget, we got 30 minutes of footage from Wolverineland for free.
Chad isn’t “following around the best climbers in the world” just for our benefit . . . he happens to be friends with some of the best climbers in the world, and it seems clear to me that he simply enjoys filming his friends climbing and making an interesting video edit of it. Any video that we get to see is just a bonus. The alternative is no video at all, until the next Dosage film . . . which you can expect to pay at least 20 bucks for. It will be worth it, but until then, I don’t understand the criticism of a free, unique video of awesome climbers climbing hard stuff . . .
I admit I was harsh in my previous post. Not the original post, but my reply to yours. If I’m being perfectly honest, I’m grateful for the footage. I’m truly glad that somebody is out there documenting some amazing climbs, like DWoods’ second ascent of The Game and all the amazing work at Wolverineland.
But, and there always is one, in my opinion (which I think is something that I share with a significant portion of the climbing community), Chad’s editing and camera work seriously detracts from the footage. It’s better than nothing, and I’ll just leave it at that.
1. I usually find Chuck Greedy videos pretty annoying, but this was much better than average. Visually, this was appealing. No, it’s not high-def with close-ups of fingers straining on holds. Different style, but still cool.
2. There’s nothing wrong with the choice of music. If you don’t like Black Flag, to hell with you. However, the audio production _was_ annoying — why show me Dave Graham talking if I can’t hear what he’s saying? Why can I hear Chuck in the background?
3. The fact that these videos are free (or that we watch them) does not mean that no one is allowed to criticize them. You can be grateful and critical. I’m glad Greedy puts out the footage he has; I also wish he was better at editing. If we never criticize each other, then we never get better.
(Imagine someone bolts a sport climb in a shitty way. Just because it’s free and it’s better than nothing doesn’t mean I’m not allowed to say, “Hey, thanks, but I gotta say that was a shitty bolting job.”)
Criticism can definitely be helpful. However, most of the comments criticizing Chad Greedy’s video are not contructive criticism.
The bolting example doesn’t quite apply, since doing a shitty bolting job actually prevents someone else from doing it properly. You would have to chop all the bolts before redoing it, permanently marring the wall with the remnants of the crappy bolting. Chad videotaping his friends while climbing doesn’t prevent anyone else from doing it.
It looks like this video was made private…
It can still be viewed on Chad Greedy’s blog. Hint: read the comment section.
apparently he doesn’t appreciate the criticism. the video is now private. but from the previous comments i guess we are not missing much.
It’s like the tea party in here. The impulse toward conservativism always amazes me. Even people who would claim to be open-minded get all bent out of shape when something slightly out of the ordinary penetrates the scene. Bunch of Philistines. Look it up. There IS room for multiple aesthetics. This is what drives the evolution of style–be it in music, art, film, or even climbing videos. Or we could just goosestep our way toward bland, homogenous repetition. At least that’s safe, right?
I honestly thought this was a decent video. This climb, and every move and hold was well documented in HD for the Reel Rock Tour, and can be bought. I’ve seen that footage enough where I thought a purposely grainy video of the problem thrown in with that song was a good touch. Would definitely have liked to hear what DG was saying, however.
And on a more important note, DW just repeated his own V16. I am totally flummoxed.
Having been critical of Chad’s videos in the past I have to say I don’t see what all the fuss is. It’s actually a pretty cool video and I hope he makes it public again. Othwerise, like Dylan said, you can visit Chad’s blog for the password.
The real question I have after watching the video is if Woods can run laps on The Game can it really be V16??? Shouldn’t it be so hard that it takes a perfect confluence of factors to send? Then again, if anyone would know it would be Woods, right??
Good point! Paul Robinson said on his blog a while ago that the difference between v14 and v15 for him is that he feels like he can repeat a v14 pretty easily once he has done it, but a v15 would be hard to repeat on command.
This logic would say that v16 would take days of work just to climb again . . . though every problem being unique makes it impossible to generalize like that.
Who knows . . . hopefully Dave gives his opinion on the grade, as he has more experience at the hard end of the bouldering scale than just about anyone.
I too hope that Dave Graham gives his opinion on the grade. In my opinion, he’s one of the few boulderers (along with DWoods, Dai, and Fred Nicole) that I believe MIGHT be able to tell the difference between 8C and 8C+.
Overall, The Game is a very different beast than LD. Lucid Dreaming is built entirely around a tenuous pinch, while The Game is body tension and power and poor feet, so that could be something.
BUT, I believe that once someone completes a V16, they should probably be able to do it again. Maybe not easily, but probably MUCH quicker than it took for the original ascent. I actually think that Paul’s logic that you mentioned is entirely flawed (not to mention his logic for giving LD 8C+). I know it would take me a million or two tries to climb a V10, but that doesn’t make it a V16. If someone flashes a V13, it doesn’t make it a V11. He’s taking his personal experience of climbing a problem, and applying it to all other climbers and every other problem.
I definitely don’t think he is trying to apply his reasoning to other climbers, as you assert. He is merely trying to explain the difference between v14 and 15 for HIM, in his mind.
I agree that this logic is somewhat flawed, simply because every problem is different. There are problems that are very hard and powerful, but as long as you have the strength you can do the moves pretty much every time. In contrast, there are low percentage moves that are not physically very hard, but are difficult to do many times in a row because they require a certain amount of accuracy, or friction, or whatever.
I like how Nalle H. adds a sit start to the Swarm but doesn’t change the grade. In fact, he keeps it at the lower V13 grade rather than V13/14. I think it shows how hard V13 really is, and how much difference there can be between the two grades.
Still, even if the Game were to be downgraded to say V15, it’s still impressive that that Woods kid can hike it.
Not sure why you posted this here, but Nalle added a direct finish to The Swarm, not a sit start.
Oh yeah. Mistake.
Ok some people don’t like Chad’s videos, some do like. But if you’re putting videos on the net, you should expect both sides to tell the opinions and you should deal with the negatives. All artists get criticized, so what?
This video has resurfaced as a DPM “exclusive” if you somehow didn’t see it when it was originally posted…
While the editing of this video is unique in its style relative to that of other climbing media, it doesn’t seem “unwatchable” (i heard DG fine, and it seemed like one could get a good idea of the overall problem from the angles, light, etc.). of course, every one is entitled to their opinion, and certainly _constructive_ criticism should be something that people should be open to; but it seems like a lot of the negative feedback towards this video lacks _any_ substance. Also, its not very clear that the creator of the vid asked for any feedback on it anyway. If black flag with a vintage tint is what he thought captured the problem well, then that is something the rest of us have to live with. after all, were not the ones putting in the effort…
We’re lucky that there are people willing to put in the time and effort to create climbing vids, and then post them for _free_. Climbing media helps build psyche and positive attitude (hopefully) that gets put to good use in building/maintaining our sport. The originality of the editing/soundtrack, etc. in this video embodies a really cool part about climbing–namely, that you can make it however you want. It seems like a form of expression just as much as an athletic endeavor, especially when filming enters the equation…
Well said Matt
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