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Posted In: Sport Climbing
Tags: Featured
Climbers: Dani Andrada
Ethan Pringle is back at Mt. Clark, home to that one route first done by that one guy:
Projecting a route like this requires all of your attention, and having to devote all of your attention to a route like this can get really tiring really fast. At some point, you just want to get it over with. Of course, afterward you feel a mix of relief and loss. Relief that you’re done and the epic is over, and loss that this magnificent line doesn’t require your presence anymore. But for me, I think I’ll have to take a nice long break from serious route projects for a little while after this. Like Randy Levitt said, “It’s like a limestone El Cap.” Obviously, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but it does sort of convey the amount of work required to complete a project of this caliber.
Pringle is no stranger to Jumbo Love, having tried it even before its FA back in 2008. You can see some footage of his attempts here.
Dani Andrada: La Obsesión, 4.8 out of 5 based on 29 ratingsI don’t know about you, but I always try my best to climb close to an actual bathroom. In case you don’t, the Access Fund has a nice refresher on what to do when nature calls.
Dani Andrada: La Obsesión, 4.8 out of 5 based on 29 ratingsI guess it shouldn’t be surprising that with training like this that Canadian Yves Gravelle was able to climb his first V14 in Daniel Woods’ Echale in Clear Creek Canyon according to his 8a scorecard.
Dani Andrada: La Obsesión, 4.8 out of 5 based on 29 ratings© 2012 Climbing Narcissist. All Rights Reserved.




Mad beta spray.
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What?
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Andrada’s “litter is much worse than chipping” attitude is fukt.
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why? some elements of climbers may be opposed to chipping, but litter is worse from the public perspective.
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Litter can be cleaned up. Holds can’t be unchipped.
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I see your point, but you can’t unkill a dolphin that becomes entangled and dies due to ocean litter. This may not exactly relate to your local crag, but there ARE litter related effects that are irreversible for a wide range of ecological functions.
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Litter can cause sectors or entire crags to be closed to all future climbing. chipping is just mildly frustrating, and only if you are on the specific climb, and only if u chose to use those holds.
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Crag closures are still reversible. Maybe you won’t get to climb there, but if people can get their act together, perhaps your grandchildren could.
For people who get their inspiration from climbing on the unique, natural arrangements of holds and features provided by natural geologic processes, chipping can be massively depressing and demotivating. Just because you only find it ‘mildly frustrating’ doesn’t mean everyone else feels the same way. I really don’t like to see physical evidence of the cowardice and lack of vision that leads people to chip.
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I’m not trying to downplay the importance of keeping crags clean. I expect people to use them without littering or defiling the stone.
But there is a big difference between the guy that leaves a clif bar wrapper behind and the guy that drills a new pocket or two.
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I don’t litter being worse then chipping or visa-versa, but more as entirely separate issues. I think their both bad, but Andrada has chosen to focus his efforts on the cleanliness of a crag rather then the quality of its routes. In the US where “natural routes” are more the norm, its easy to not see his point, but in Spain where because of the massive influx of international climbers, world class areas like Margalef are in danger of being shut down or limited due to litter, so naturally chipping would be less of a concern.
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