Not sure why it took two years, but it’s nice to finally see this footage. That wall in Christian’s house with the signatures and ape index of all the visiting climbers is one of the coolest things ever.
Did anyone else think of Gollum as he topped that thing?
No, I just thought that it’s a shame that Paul Robinson only had just enough days of good conditions in Varazze to climb the sit start of Gioia (and quickly), it would have been great to have yet another repeat.
Has anyone of the boulderelite tried this boulderproblem? I would think several of the worlds strongest boulderers would like to one of the worlds hardest boulderproblems
Paul Robinson did the sit start version (which is something like V13 or V14) very quickly according to Adam himself. Look back in his blog. But conditions got worse as he started working the full version. Dunno about others.
Paul did the stand start. There is no sit start version. Paul called the stand V12.
Yeah, I meant the stand start as opposed to crouched version/V16 version we see in the video.
What a great video of Adam; perhaps the best that I’ve seen of him. Although I’m not a huge fan of the Ondra Wobbler that he gets so much negative press for (anybody seen the caption for this video on Climbing Mag’s site?), this video makes them totally understandable. The man puts everything he has into his climbing. He’s in love with it. As a result, he gets very worked up when he fails. But on the other side of the spectrum, you have moments like 8:50 in the video, where he’s experiencing the purest fathomable joy. I’m not sure I’ve ever seen someone’s face as happy after finishing a problem.
I’ve always given him the benefit of the doubt with that stuff. Obviously it would be better if he controlled his emotions better in public, but it’s pretty clear that its these same intense emotions that drive him to be so great.
I might venture to say that it’s the LACK of publicly displayed passion (Both negative and positive) in modern society that’s alarming.
Anyway, great video and a nice relaxed style edit.
what was the caption on climbing mag’s post of this?
It has been changed, but it used to say:
“Despite throwing hissy-fit tantrums when he doesn’t send, a Harry Potter-esque appearance, and our own undying favoritism toward Chris Sharma as the strongest climber in the world, Adam Ondra is a BEAST.
Watch him crush two (yes, TWO) V16s in this short piece from Reel Rock 2013.”
ASSUMING (and I mean ASSUMING) there is such thing as “the
strongest climber” in the world (and again, they are the ones
taking that path), claiming/favoring that it is (still) Sharma, by
this day and age, is like claiming that the Earth is flat and there
are huge waterfalls at the end of the oceans… Thanks for
Too bad dubstep music isn’t as awesome as Ondra.
Really fantastic advice at the end.
© 2014 Climbing Narcissist. All Rights Reserved.