Been itching to send one of those classic 5.11 or 5.12s at the Red River Gorge’s Torrent Falls Crag? Bummed that is has been closed to the public for the better part of 1+ year? Well, those days are over. Sort of. Torrent Falls has been re-opened to public climbing, however the re-opening comes with new rules in place to help limit problems that led to its closure in the first place. Climbing will only be allowed on Thursday, Friday or Saturday, and you must register day-of. Visit the new Torrent Falls website for more information.

Torrent Falls Re-Opened To Public Climbers

Torrent Falls at Red River Gorge has been sold!
Late last year, the access situation at Torrent Falls at the Red River Gorge in Kentucky got ugly. I talked with the landownder Mark about it several times and I can’t say that I really blamed him for closing the crag to climbing. Personally I was disappointed in how events transpired but I was also [...]
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Jimmy Webb’s Climbed 99 Problems And The Island (V14) Was One
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Golden Direct Repeated By Ben Spannuth
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Alex Johnson Climbs Lethal Design (V12)
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News & Notes
Jimmy Webb’s Climbed 99 Problems And The Island (V14) Was One
Ok. Horrible title. Forgive me.
Anyway, Jimmy Webb is about a week into his first trip to Font. Last week he managed that one day ascent of Kheops Assis (V14), and according to his 8a scorecard this week he managed a relatively quick repeat of Dave Graham’s The Island a once V15 but now maybe V14 at Coquibus Rumont. This latest ascent puts him at 99 problems V10 or harder in the past 12 months which is notable for being 99 more V10s or harder than I’ve done in my entire life1.
Golden Direct Repeated By Ben Spannuth
Ben Spannuth, who recently started a blog at LT11, grabbed a rare repeat Golden Direct at the Cathedral in Southern Utah according to his 8a scorecard. Golden Direct was first done in 2008 by Joe Kinder at a suggested grade of 5.14d and was subsequently repeated by the likes of Chris Sharma and Jonathan Siegrist. Having climbed five other routes in the 5.14c/d range in the past 6 months, Spannuth felt Golden Direct warranted a grade of 5.14c.
1 CommentAlex Johnson Climbs Lethal Design (V12)
Alex Johnson gave the highballs in Bishop a break to check out the bouldering in Red Rock, Nevada where she repeated the V12 highball Lethal Design according to her 8a scorecard:
great support crew and tons of pads! long and crimpy. worked out all the moves quick and sent first burn.
Since the start of 2012 she has done some eight V10′s or harder across Yosemite, Bishop and Red Rock.
Update: Climbing.com caught up with Johnson to discuss the ascent
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