Climbing Narcissist » Rocktoberfest

Rocktoberfest 2010 & Updated Red River Gorge Guidebook

Narc — Thu, 30 Sep 2010 12:52:32 +0000

Next weekend from the 8th to the 10th of October Rocktoberfest will be taking over Kentucky’s Red River Gorge with 3 days dedicated to having fun and paying down the mortgage on the Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve. Events throughout the weekend include dyno comps, music, pro clinics, jousting tournaments and a screening of CORE. For more info visit the Rocktoberfest 2010 website.

I’d love to be able to say that I’ll be at Rocktoberfest this year but I can’t because that would be a lie. After a stellar (for me) spring season down at the Red this fall is shaping up to be a big dud. It’s possible I may make zero trips to the Red! I was unhappy about all this until I remembered that I’m going to Yosemite next week so I guess life isn’t so terrible but still. If you do end up going to Rocktoberfest have fun and don’t let your weekend end up like Mrs. Narcs’ did back at the 2008 installment of the event.

In other Red River Gorge news, the 3rd edition of the Wolverine guidebook came out late this summer (this is in addition to the excellent iPhone app they released back in the spring). The print book features 392 pages and hundreds of new routes just in case you were running out of things to do when you visit. I know I was.

One thing to note in the event you pick up a copy is that there were some mistakes in the Funk Rock City section with route numbering that could cause confusion about which route was which. Since reprinting the book for everyone is a bit infeasible Wolverine Publishing released a corrected PDF topo for the area which can be downloaded here.

Rocktoberfest 2010 & Updated Red River Gorge Guidebook from Climbing Narcissist

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More Details On 8th Annual Red River Gorge Rocktoberfest

Narc — Tue, 07 Oct 2008 16:49:47 +0000

Pre-Registration for the festivities at this weekend’s 8th Annual Rocktoberfest in the Red River Gorge of Kentucky is closing soon. The event promises to have plenty of music, food, schwag and climbing for everyone. Register soon to get in on one of the last of 200 schwag bags, or to guarantee your spot in one of the climbing clinics taught by pro climbers. Here are a few more details on this weekend’s festivities.

Instructors were recently announced for the climbing clinics taking place on Sunday:

All clinics will take place at their assigned locations (details below) on Sunday, October 12, from 10 AM – 2 PM. All clinic participants MUST come to the Clinic Meet and Greet on Saturday, October 11th at 7 PM at Bee Rocks. This will give participants the opportunity to meet the instructors and sign liability waivers.

You must pre-register and pay in order to secure your spot. Registration closes at midnight on Wednesday so hurry!

Women’s Beginner Climbing Location: TBD Instructor: TBD	Men’s Beginner Climbing Location: The Shire Instructor: Daniel Wood
Women’s Intermediate Climbing Location: Playground Instructor: Whitney Boland	Men’s Intermediate Climbing Location: Gallery Instructor: TBD
Women’s Advance Climbing Location: Torrent Instructor: Emily Harrington	Men’s Advance Climbing Location: Torrent Instructor: Tommy Caldwell
Men’s and Women’s Traditional Climbing Location: Chica Bonita Instructor: Justin Sjong	Photography Location: Torrent Instructor: John Evans and Chuck Odette

Remember, all proceeds from the weekend go toward helping to pay down the mortgage on the PMRP:

…this is a party with a purpose. In 2004 the RRGCC purchased the Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP), 750-acres of land with 400+ routes, many of which are decidedly world-class, ranging from 5.5 – 5.14c and the potential for plenty more. It’s an incredible fortune to own such an amazing piece of land. There are no free lunches, though – along with the sizable chunk of land we are also proud owners of a sizable mortgage payment… to the order of $30,000 a year until 2014.

Below is the full schedule. Be sure to visit the RRGCC website for all the details. Look for a full write-up on the event (at least the parts we are attending) next week.

More Details On 8th Annual Red River Gorge Rocktoberfest from Climbing Narcissist

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News & Notes – 10/1/2008

Narc — Wed, 01 Oct 2008 12:40:06 +0000

Rocktoberfest hits the Red River Gorge next weekend, October 10-12. Reel Rock Tour, tons of free swag and of course a huge party…and climbing too! Register soon to guarantee yourself one of the sweet swag bags. If you use my referral code of 68145 when you sign up (and I win something cool) I will be sure to buy you an Ale 8 or something. Here is a full schedule:

Friday:
6pm : Vendors open for your perusing pleasure
8pm : Short Movies and Party
Saturday:
9am-5pm : The Clip and Go competition begins in the PMRP – Sore Heel Hollar
6pm : Dinner’s served, thanks to Bourbon and Toulouse; Vendors open for your perusing pleasure
8pm : Reel Rock Tour Movie Special
7pm-Into the night : Music to move to.. Slant Kings, 23 Strings Band and more..
Sunday:
8am : Breakfast served thanks to Climbers for Christ
10am : Clinics head out

The big news last week in the world of hard bouldering is of course Ty Landman repeating Chris Sharma’s Practice Of The Wild (V15) in Magic Wood, Switzerland. As usual, Ty has a coherent and well thought out blog entry on the process of sending this problem. Look for video to surface soon.

Photo: Moonclimbing

The UK’s James Pearson continues to prove his all-around game. He recently established Walk Of Life (E12) which involves dicey mid-5.14 slab climbing with scant protection! Hot Aches was there to capture it all on tape for their upcoming Committed Vol. 2.

Photo: Hot Aches Productions

The unfortunate mess that is the upcoming “Bouldering Colorado” guidebook continues. Accusations of negligence and elitism are being thrown back and forth with the latest salvo coming from author Bob Horan himself. In a blog entry on Falcon’s website he takes Jamie Emerson to task for being Mr. “B3 Know It All”. Stay classy Bob.
Routesetter.com is considering closing up shop?? As a sole proprietor of this blogsite I can attest to the amount of work and psych required to keep things going. I hope that the community of setters that visit Routesetter.com will be able to step in and convince Mike to keep things running. I know that I’ve enjoyed many of the discussions that have taken place there.
Tim Kemple has some interesting thoughts on the state of the professional action sports photography business.
Nicros/Five Ten Nic has a new blogsite. Check it out and encourage him to update it more often!
I’ve always wanted to visit Mallorca and this cool trip report on the DWS action there only increases that desire.
Check out this video of ODub climbing the burly roof crack Hidden Dragon (5.12c) at the Red River Gorge:

This weekend we will be in MN for the 16th anniversary party at VE St. Paul followed by bouldering at Taylor’s Falls. Hope to see some of the MN readers up there!

News & Notes – 10/1/2008 from Climbing Narcissist

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News & Notes – 9/11/2008

Narc — Thu, 11 Sep 2008 18:11:00 +0000

Let’s cut right to the chase:

Alex Honnold took his free soloing to a new level when he climbed the Regular Northwest Face route on Half Dome without a rope. Very impressive, yet kind of scary because what else could be next besides an El Cap free solo?
Paul Robinson had a slow start to his rampage in Europe because of bad weather. With conditions improving from rainy to hot, he has made quick ascents of several hard problems in the areas of Magic Wood and Chironico in Switzerland. So far 2 V13s, 5 V12s and 2 V11s are in the bag with countless harder problems remaining for when conditions get better. If you are at all interested in the high end grading debate you should read Paul’s latest blog entry where he gives his thoughts on the grades of the problems he has climbed thus far. I agree with Jamie’s comment that if he disagrees with a given grade it would be beneficial for Paul to register his thoughts on the all important spraysheet, however I understand his reservations with doing so. 8a.nu has created an environment on their site that is not conducive to a civilized debate these days. Props to James Pearson for pulling off the flash of a couple of these debated V13s.
There has been a lot of development going on in the Eastern Sierra Nevada area Way Lake located north of Bishop, CA. Strong women like Lisa Rands, Beth Rodden and Lyn Verinsky have been pulling down in a big way. Just recently, Isaac Caldiero opened one of the hardest lines when he did Chumscrubber (V12). The crew from Betabase has been up there as well. Also on the scene for the media capture was John Vallejo.

Isaac Caldiero – Chumscrubber (V12)

Photo: Jeff Sillcox

The video of Alex Johnson crushing some alpine boulders is now up on MomentumVM.

A few notable upcoming events:

The 2008 Reel Rock Tour got underway last night in Boulder. Based on the review on AllClimbing it sounds like a great event. The winners of the Reel Rock Tour Filmmaking Competition were “Back on my Feet” and “Chalk it Up” in the so-called action/inspiration category and not surprisingly “Rediness is All” in the humor category. Looks like local favorite Emily is getting her nightmare wish granted to take her “dirt me!” tour nationwide. Check the listings on their site to see when the tour is coming to a city near you.
The Nor’easter festival is coming up September 26-28 at Tenney Mountain in Plymouth, NH. Climbers like Chris Sharma, Dave Graham, Daniel Woods, Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson will be in nearby Rumney for clinics and of course hard sending. Check the Nor’easter website for some interesting write-ups on the athletes who will be participating in a Flash and Redpoint bounty comp on the Saturday of the event. The big bounties are offering $1,000 to anyone that can repeat Jaws II (5.15a) and $2000 to anyone who can claim the FA of the so-called Bill Clinton Project.
24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell is coming up the same weekend as Nor’easter in Arkansas. 24 straight hours of clipping bolts!!
Rocktoberfest is quickly approaching at the Red River Gorge in Kentucky. Check out the official website for more information and to register. Unless our plans change suddenly, Mrs. Narc and I will be there. Hopefully we will see some of the Climbingnarc.com faithful down there.

News & Notes – 9/11/2008 from Climbing Narcissist

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News & Notes – 5/14/2007

Narc — Mon, 14 May 2007 11:52:00 +0000

Big news of last week was Daniel Woods making the 2nd ascent of Suspension of Disbelief (V13 or V14) at Eldorado Canyon, CO. Dave Graham called it V13 but Daniel felt it was harder than any V14 he had done so he proposed upgrading it to V14.
Ethan Pringle did the first ascent of Jumbo Glass (5.14c) at Mt. Clark. He also repeated Jumbo Pumping Hate (5.14a) on his 2nd try…sort of.
The Petzl Roc Trip is coming back to the USA and this time it will be at the Red River Gorge in Kentucky.
The USA Climbing Regionals event this past weekend was a big success for the kids I coach. Everyone advanced to Divisionals next month in Cincy. Awesome climbing guys!

News & Notes – 5/14/2007 from Climbing Narcissist

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