ClimbingNarc.com » Five Ten

Limited Edition Team 5.10 Vs. Five Ten V10 Comparison

Narc — Mon, 14 Sep 2009 13:07:06 +0000

Last week I alluded to the fact that I recently came into possession of a pair of the new Limited Edition Team 5.10 shoes. Ever since Five Ten discontinued the V10 model (and two of Five Ten’s well known athletes openly petitioned for their return) I’ve been looking forward to the return of a V10-like shoe.

Given that the new Team shoe is pretty similar to the discontinued V10s, I thought it might be helpful to compare the two and see what differences there are between the them (at least superficially).

Other than the obvious blue color, the new shoes have a velcro and elastic closure system, less rubber on the heel and a series of holes and ridges in the rubber on the toe. The Team shoes also feature the Stealth Mystique rubber where the V10s had Stealth HF. Whether or not you can notice the difference is anyone’s guess. Take a look at the pictures:

If you are wondering how to size the shoes, they suggest you size them the same as your street shoe. For me this is the same as the old V10s as well as the Dragons. I had a hard time jamming my foot into the shoe at first, but persistent effort paid off and the shoes are breaking in nicely.

Once I’ve had a chance to do some real climbing in the shoes I’ll provide another update.

Limited Edition Team 5.10 Vs. Five Ten V10 Comparison from ClimbingNarc.com

Climbing Video: “The Beta – Six Feet Under” – 2009 Triple Crown Bouldering Series Preview

Narc — Fri, 11 Sep 2009 16:30:17 +0000

The 2009 Triple Crown Bouldering Series is fast approaching and the hype machine is getting into high gear. To aid in getting people psyched for the comps, organizers have teamed up with Andrew Kornylak to produce a series of “Beta” videos of problems you’ll find on the Triple Crown circuit.

This 2nd video in the series features Brion Voges climbing the problems Instinct (V7) and Six Feet Under (V5) at The Stone Fort near Chattanooga, TN:

I think my favorite part about these videos, beyond the high production value, is that they do not consist solely of super hard problems. The problems in this video, as well as the previous video from Hound Ears, NC, are very attainable for the average climber. I don’t know about you, but I’m psyched to get out and try these problems (even if it won’t be during the actual Triple Crown).

Here is the full schedule for those thinking of trying to unseat last year’s Open champs Alex Johnson and Jimmy Webb:

2009 Triple Crown Bouldering Series Schedule:

10/3 – Hound Ears, NC
11/7 – Horse Pens 40, AL
12/5 – Little Rock City The Stone Fort, TN

On a related note, one can now purchase the highly anticipated Five Ten Team 5.10 LE shoe that were used in this clip at various climbing shops and online retailers like RockCreek.com (who has the shoes for 10% off!). Word on the street is that they should be sized similar to your street shoe size, or the Dragons if you have a pair of those.

I got my pair in the mail yesterday and promptly ripped a hole in my toe trying to get them on. Your results may vary…

Climbing Video: “The Beta – Six Feet Under” – 2009 Triple Crown Bouldering Series Preview from ClimbingNarc.com

Mysterious New Five Ten Shoe Identified

Narc — Thu, 02 Jul 2009 11:30:13 +0000

Earlier this year there was a lot of interest shown in a pair of mysterious blue Five Ten shoes that looked very similar to the recently discontinued, but highly popular, V10s. Most notably they were seen in the video of Paul Robinson on the 2nd ascent of Psychedelic, Kevin Jorgeson’s blog and just recently in the video of Dave Graham sending Big Worm.

A sneak peak

My attempts to pry information about these new shoes out of various Five Ten sources were not successful, although I was able to see the prototypes in person last month. What I saw was very promising and I was excited to see the finished product, whenever that may be.

Now, thanks to the French language site Stikkit, we have the finished product: the Team 5.10:

Apparently inspired by the Jet7, Dragon and 5x shoes, the Team 5.10 has a new heel and Stealth Mystique 3.5 mm rands and outsole. Don’t get too excited though, it will be the Spring of 2010 before you can get your hands on a pair.

New Five Ten products for Spring 2010

Thanks to the excellent French site Kairn for the tip!

Mysterious New Five Ten Shoe Identified from ClimbingNarc.com

Another Update On The Five Ten Projects

Narc — Thu, 18 Jun 2009 09:13:54 +0000

Since it’s unlikely I will ever be healthy for a long enough period of time to put my Five Ten Projects through their paces, this updated review at Sicky Gnar Gnar is going to be your best source of information.

Another Update On The Five Ten Projects from ClimbingNarc.com

More On The Five Ten Projects

Narc — Fri, 24 Apr 2009 14:08:10 +0000

Since I haven’t had much time to climb in mine (soon though?) here is a more thorough analysis of the Five Ten Projects.

More On The Five Ten Projects from ClimbingNarc.com

Five Ten Project First Impressions

Narc — Mon, 06 Apr 2009 12:47:37 +0000

When I first saw random photos of people climbing in a new, top secret high performance Five Ten shoe last year I knew I had to have a pair. This wasn’t so much because I really needed a new pair of shoes (I hardly climb enough to wear out any of my shoes), but more so because I’m obsessed with having whatever is “new”. I’ve also been looking for a replacement shoe for the discontinued V10s, and I was hoping that this new Project shoe from Five Ten might help fill that void in my life.

After months of eager anticipation I finally had a chance to try out my pair of Projects a few weeks ago during my trip to Rocktown. I was a bit concerned that they were too thin after trying them in the gym, but their performance on real rock was a pleasant surprise. The best way I could describe how they feel is that they make it seem like you aren’t wearing shoes at all. The Projects are so light and soft that it feels like you are just pulling on the rock with your bare feet. It’s kind of like having an extra pair of hands to pull down with…without all the associated injuries!! (sorry, couldn’t resist the lame injury joke)

Photo: Danny

The obvious downside is that the Projects are not ideal for edging or face climbing so you have to pick your spots. Remember, this is not a beginners shoe. I did try them out on a few smeary climbs and they performed really well. I could see this being useful in a place like HP40 for example.

Photo: Danny

Overall I was really pleased with how the Projects performed albeit in very limited testing. Right now they fit really well other than a small dead spot on the side of my heel. It will be interesting to see if they overstretch like my Moccasyms or if they maintain their snug fit as they get more use. (For reference, I sized my Projects the same as my Moccasyms which are size 9. I wear a size 10.5 street shoe.) I will also be keeping a close eye on the Mystique rubber to see if it really is as durable as advertised despite being absurdly thin. I’ll try to provide another update in the event that I actually get to do some climbing anytime soon.

To give you a few more opinions, here are a few other people that have tried out the Projects:

Sicky Gnar Gnar

Hayden Miller

Five Ten Project First Impressions from ClimbingNarc.com

Anatomy of a V13 Flash

Narc — Wed, 02 Jan 2008 18:14:59 +0000

Consider with me for a moment, what it takes (beyond being freakishly strong) to flash a V13 boulder problem. Patience is no doubt important as one must wait weeks or even years before the right combination of skill and conditions come together in a singular moment. One must also be extremely dedicated to getting fit and finding a problem that suits one’s skills perfectly. This is all well and good, but observe the below photographic evidence that I submit to you for review. What pattern do you notice in these sequences of successful V13 flashes (perhaps the only ones in history)??

Paul Robinson flashing Nagual (V13)
Photo: Ryan Olson

James Pearson Flashing Great Shark Hunt (V13)
Photo: Simon Richardson/DarkPeakImages

James Pearson flashing Ganymede Takeover
Photo: http://www.freakclimbing.com/

And now a negative example – Paul Robinson NOT sending Free Range (V13)
Screenshot from MomentumVM footage of the crew at Boulder Canyon

DUH!

Memo to decision makers at Five Ten: What are you doing discontinuing your most popular and successful bouldering shoe; one that cannot possibly be duplicated or refined in a new shoe with a more hip name!?! Please absorb this body of evidence along with the recent V15 sending exploits of P-Rob (undoubtedly wearing the V10s) and reconsider your foolish decision.

Anatomy of a V13 Flash from ClimbingNarc.com

My Climbing Shoe Collection

Narc — Tue, 13 Nov 2007 12:39:16 +0000

Lately I have been accused by many of owning too many pairs of climbing shoes. One might even think that I am sponsored by Five Ten based on my endless promotion of their shoes, but they would be wrong.

While perhaps not necessary, each shoe does actually have a specific use:

Montrail Shoes – Received for free, still evaluating the effectiveness of a shoe that you are supposed to put in your oven before using. Good for wearing out at the gym instead of one of my more cherished shoes.
Anasazi Mesa – After cursing the mistaken arrival of these shoes (instead of the classic pink lace-ups) I now use these as my preferred shoe for the small and slippery footholds at Devil’s Lake
New V10s – Awesome bouldering shoe, not bad for sport either
Dragons – Still breaking them in but obviously quite good for the steep stuff
Mocasyms – Good for pretty much anything you could ever want to climb and quite a bit more comfortable than my other shoes
Old V10s – A bit worn down but still great for bouldering at the gym
Anasazi Velcro (not pictured) – In a moment of philanthropy earlier this year I donated my pair of these to a young pupil of mine. I really need to get a new pair!

Take a second to take the below poll and let me know how many pairs of shoes you currently own. Based on the results so far, I am not in the minority in having over 5 pairs of shoes. Also, take a minute to comment below what is currently in your collection.

Note: There is a poll embedded within this post, please visit the site to participate in this post's poll.

My Climbing Shoe Collection from ClimbingNarc.com

Five Ten Shoes on Modern Marvels

Narc — Thu, 02 Aug 2007 11:31:00 +0000

The segment about Stealth Rubber on History Channel’s “Modern Marvels” was short but interesting. It was cool to see the process through which they synthesized and cured the rubber. The climbing segments were somewhat cheesy and came off more as an infomercial for Five Ten but that was to be expected I guess. They of course demonstrated the following as well:

“Stealth Rubber…the stickiest of them all”
Photo: Jamie Emerson

Five Ten Shoes on Modern Marvels from ClimbingNarc.com

News & Notes – 7/30/2007

Narc — Mon, 30 Jul 2007 12:24:00 +0000

Paul Robinson is back from his trip to California with Daniel Woods. I would have to believe he is a little bit disappointed he did not send problems like Black Mamba (V13) or Somewhere in Time (V13) like Mr. Woods did, but it sounded like a great trip nonetheless.
If you didn’t see it in the comments, Justin Jaeger has the video of Kelly McBride climbing the Kind Traverse ready. She makes it look pretty easy.
Speaking of strong women, Laura Griffiths sent her own V11 this past weekend when she made the 3rd ascent of Adamantium Sit Start at Black Mountain in only 1 day of work. In her recent trip to Socal she has also done 2 V10′s, 4 V9′s and 2 V8′s.
Five Ten shoes will be featured on the History channel program “Modern Marvels” tonight at 8 p.m. EST. Take that all you La Sport wearing punters…
Andre DeFelice must not need much time to rest. In the past week alone he has done 4 V9′s, 1 V11 and 1 V12 in RMNP. Mixed in there he managed to make the drive up to the Wild Iris outside of Lander, WY and send his first 5.14a Throwin’ the Houlian.
Ryan “Future” Roden is a guy (not really a kid anymore) I’ve seen around the youth climbing circuit for a few years and he only seems to be getting stronger. In the past month or so he has really gotten into form by sending 3 5.14a’s, 2 .13d’s and 3 .13c’s. I would expect to hear a lot more about him in the future.

News & Notes – 7/30/2007 from ClimbingNarc.com

Five Ten Dragon Shoe Review

Narc — Tue, 20 Feb 2007 15:07:00 +0000

I finally got my hands on a pair of the “new” 5.10 Dragons last month and they blew my mind. I have pretty much always been a 5.10 addict and I have had basically all of their “high performance” shoes: Anasazi Velcro, Lace-ups, the regrettable Mesas, V10 (old and new) and others.

After years of tinkering with the original Velcro Dragons and the 2 different versions of the V10’s, 5.10 really crushed it with these new shoes. The Lace-up Dragons perform spectacularly both with and without the laces tied! I was surprised to feel how powerfully my foot was positioned simply by putting it in the shoe and leaving the laces undone (tying laces increases my pump). The one common complaint that I was able to confirm was that the laces are really ridiculously long and you will have to come up with a comfortable system for lacing them (or just don’t lace them if it’s too much work).

I haven’t been able to climb in them as much as I would have liked but my first impression is that the Dragon is really quite versatile despite the radical downturn in the toe. I felt very solid climbing on thin face climbs while also seeing the obvious high performance on steep roof climbs. I did feel like my foot began to sweat sooner than my Mocasyms but that might just be a personal problem.

As for sizing, I will give you a run-down of my street shoe size along with my size in various 5.10 shoes and you can take it from there (all sizes are US). Compared to how I have sized other shoes and the fact that the lace-up design makes it easier to get your foot in a shoe, the Dragon’s are really quite comfortable for how much performance they offer.

Street shoe – 10.5

New Dragon – 10.5

Mocasym – 9

Anasazi Velcro – 9.5

Anasazi Lace-up – 10

V10 (old) – 10 (so painful)

V10 (new) – 10.5

Overall Grade: Go get a pair today!

Five Ten Dragon Shoe Review from ClimbingNarc.com