Climbing Narcissist » Dosage 5

Dosage V Review & Trailer

Narc — Mon, 15 Dec 2008 13:37:51 +0000

I wish I had some sort of excuse as to why it has taken me 5 months to share my thoughts about the latest release from Big Up Productions, Dosage V. In my defense, the glut of information I provided in the run up to its release combined with Big Up’s reputation as the leading climbing filmmaker of our time should have been sufficient motivation for you to go out and get it. If not, read on…

To get a better idea of what to expect in Dosage V check out the trailer, a few other reviews, and my exhaustive list of what you will see in the movie. As a bonus, the extras section on the DVD has even more awesome action. If that doesn’t pique your interest, I’m not sure there is much I can say in this space to convince you otherwise. Suffice it to say, if you enjoyed any part of Dosages I – IV, you will almost certainly enjoy the fifth installment.

My review is quite simple, if you don’t already have your own copy of Dosage V, what are you waiting for? The movie features the world’s best climbers, climbing the world’s hardest climbs, in some of the world’s best climbing areas, filmed by some of the world’s best climbing filmmakers. It doesn’t get much better.

As an aside to this review, I want to give Big Up some credit for how they handled the Michael Fuselier American Gangster (5.14b) footage in the film. Without rehashing old news too much, there was controversy earlier this year over the alleged manufacturing of some holds on this route during the filming of its FA by Fuselier. Given that this route was to be the centerpiece of the dose on sport climbing in China, it left the guys at Big Up in an uncomfortable position. Should they keep it as the main part of the dose or would it be better to downplay it a bit (or remove it completely)? I know that they wrestled with the decision, and in the end they decided to put more focus on other aspects of the China footage in lieu of American Gangster. The American Gangster footage is still there, but if you don’t know what you are looking for you will miss it completely. I think that this decision was pretty admirable on the part of Big Up, and the dose still turned out great.

Dosage V Review & Trailer from Climbing Narcissist

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News & Notes 6/5/08

Narc — Thu, 05 Jun 2008 15:37:42 +0000

Good luck to the U.S. bouldering team this weekend!

On to the news and notes…

Dosage 5 premiered in Boulder, CO last night with much fanfare apparently. Check out Newclimber for an early review. He has a fair number of critiques, many of which sound pretty standard for the Dosage series. You either like the style or you don’t. The critique on the over editing concerns me though as I’m not a fan of seeing problems all chopped up. Be sure to check out my post from last week on the contents of Dosage 5 if you are wondering what you will be able to see when the video comes to the masses.
Peter Beal has written another great article for Frontrangebouldering.com. The topic is how we think about the difficulty of what we climb and how that affects performance. A must read. Look for another article by Peter here in the near future.
A lot of good videos floating around right now:
- Wade David has another high res video, this time it is Giovanni Traversi flashing Fingerhut (V10) in Joe’s Valley, UT. It would be great if MVM adopted a resolution closer to what Wade is using.
- Climbing.com has video of Hayden Miller climbing Eric’s Sister (V10) outside of Cotopaxi, CO
- Climbing also has video of Steve McClure showing the moves on his new proposed 5.15a route at Kilnsey in Yorkshire, U.K.
- MVM has some footage from Jamie Emerson’s trip to Switzerland and it starts off with Jamie climbing Riverbed (V13) and Daniel Woods climbing Collateral (V12). The lockoff on Collateral is sick.
- MVM also has a cool video of Chuck Fryberger climbing two new problems in Newlin Creek, CO
The World Cup Bouldering event starts tomorrow in Vail, CO. According to V16 boulderer Chris Webb-Parsons the routesetting at the World Cup held last weekend in Grindelwald, Switzerland was “shit”. Let’s hope we can do better.
For those that frequent the Sanctuary at the Red River Gorge, a direct start to the hyperclassic 5.12d Jesus Wept has been done. It climbs straight up the arete instead of climbing in from the left and is another 5.12d apparently. I notice that neighboring route Triple Sec has been officially downgraded to 5.12d in the online guidebook.
Conrad Anker and the Conservation Alliance are teaming up on a new project called Return to the Outdoors. Here is a video they made with Steph Davis where she talks about reconnecting with our natural world…and she BASE jumps from the top of the Tombstone in Moab, UT.

News & Notes 6/5/08 from Climbing Narcissist

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Possible Dosage Box Set?

Narc — Fri, 30 May 2008 14:34:07 +0000

To follow-up on yesterday’s news of what is going to be in the upcoming Dosage 5 DVD from Big Up Productions, I have also heard rumblings of a possible DVD box set of all 5 Dosage movies being released at the same time as Dosage 5. Nothing firm yet, but that is the rumor. Sounds like a good way to get caught up on 5 of the best climbing movies ever made if you haven’t been following along the whole time…or someone took your copy of Dosage 3 and never returned it…

Possible Dosage Box Set? from Climbing Narcissist

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Exclusive Details On Contents Of Dosage 5

Narc — Thu, 29 May 2008 12:19:58 +0000

The long wait for the next installment in the Dosage series of climbing movies is almost over. Next week, you will be able to see the movie for the first time (if you live in Boulder) and a wide release has been promised for some time in late June. Ok, great. But what will actually be in the movie?

I have been doing some digging, and I have been able to confirm a few details. Check out this detailed list of what will be in the ‘doses’ that comprise Dosage 5:

Beth Rodden on Meltdown (5.14c) trad FA in Yosemite which would be awesome by itself. However, there will also be footage of her climbing on other traditional testpieces like The Phoenix (5.13a), Cosmic Debris (5.13b), Peace (5.13c/d) and Book of Hate (5.13d).
Daniel Woods on the FA of Jade (V15) in RMNP plus Paul Robinson on the third ascent. Several other double digit RMNP problems from Daniel and Paul as well.
Chris Sharma trying his two possible 5.15b projects in Santa Linya and Siurana, Spain.
Dani Andrada on his 5.15 route/boulder Ali-Hulk Sentado in Rodellar, Spain.
Daila Ojeda on 2 5.14s in Santa Linya and Siurana, Spain.
Patxi Usobiaga on 2 5.14cs in Santa Linya and Margalef, Spain.
Randy Puro and Tommy Caldwell on new boulders in Yosemite, including the 1st and 2nd ascents of Dogwood (V12), FA of Yabo Roof (V12), FA of Xenophile (V11), 2nd ascent of Tim Clifford’s Park Life (V12) as well as ascents of Drive On (V11) and Kumba (V11).
Footage from Yangshuo, China featuring Mike Fuselier and Axel Ballay. FA of American Gangster (5.14b) and 2 other 5.14 FAs
Dave Graham, Ty Landman, Jon Cardwell, Jason Kehl and Chad Greedy in Arkansas. Lost in The Hood (V14) FA, Wood Grain Grippin (V14) FA, many more FAs in the V12-V13 range.
Jason Kehl and Chris Lindner bouldering in Albarracin, Spain
“Secrets of the The East” – the unknown gems of New England with Paul Robinson, Matt Bosley and more – FAs of several V10-V14 problems around NY, CT, and MA.

Overall, this installment in the Dosage series looks like it will continue the tradition of being even better (the first 4 were pretty awesome!) than the previous installments. If you are going to be seeing it at the premier next Wednesday in Boulder, be sure to drop me a line and let me know how it goes.

Stay tuned to Climbingnarc.com for more details!

Exclusive Details On Contents Of Dosage 5 from Climbing Narcissist

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Dosage 5 To Premier June 4th In Boulder

Narc — Fri, 16 May 2008 16:59:24 +0000

FRB is reporting on their message board that the much anticipated 5th installment in the Big Up Productions Dosage series will be premiering on June 4th at the Boulder Theater in downtown Boulder, CO. I will have more information as we get closer to the release of the actual DVD (date: unknown).

While we all wait in eager anticipation, check out the below video of Michael Fuselier in China that will be featured in Dosage 5. It is part of a cool new project from Nike called Sweetspots.

Also in the upcoming Dosage 5 will be footage of Dave Graham bouldering in Arkansas, Beth Rodden climbing 5.14 trad, Yosemite bouldering, Paul Robinson bouldering hard out East and more!

Stay tuned…

Dosage 5 To Premier June 4th In Boulder from Climbing Narcissist

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News & Notes – 3/19/2008

Narc — Wed, 19 Mar 2008 17:10:34 +0000

If you spend any time reading the scorecard comments of top climbers, you have no doubt noticed Paul Robinson and Daniel Woods opining about the “rastaman vibration sit!!!!” which is an unclimbed project in Bishop, CA. I for one had never even heard of the stand start of the problem, but based on what Paul had to say in the latest issue of Climbing the sit sounds pretty hard:

It has a pinch-a little lip for four fingers with a terrible thumb catch-you get it way above your head and bring it down to your hip

You can see a few pictures of Matt Birch trying the Rasta Man Vibration sit on Wade David’s site. They are pictures 11 & 12 in the Bishop gallery. Matt had better hurry up if he wants to get the FA, Paul is on the way.
Speaking of Paul Robinson, he recently did the 5th ascent of Ty Landman’s Midnight Express (V14) in Boulder Canyon. Here are videos of Ty Landman and Dave Graham climbing the problem.

Paul Robinson topping out Midnight Express (V14)

Photo: Andy Mann

I see on Peter Beal’s blog that Steve Dieckhoff has passed away. Here is an old FRB interview with him that outlines his stance on several issues including bolt chopping. You can check out some of Steve’s artwork on his website.
Check out the Big Up Blog for photos from a Dosage 5 shoot that will feature Randy Puro, Tommy Caldwell and others bouldering in the Valley. If you think for a even one second that bouldering in the valley must have been tapped out decades ago, you need to check out the BetBase Blog and be amazed at the plethora of moderate lines that are still being found.

Tommy Caldwell trying Tim Clifford’s Park Life (V12) – Literally on one of the busiest trails in all of Yosemite NP hence the nighttime stealth tactics

Photo: Big Up Blog

Ty Landman has added a few move traverse into his problem Freak Brothers II (V10) in Boulder Canyon to yield a new line called Freak Accident (V12). You can see video of it right now at MVM. There is also nice footage of Dave Graham in the premium section featuring his ascent of Existence Mundane (5.14b/c) at Acephale.
Joe Kinder just sent a project he had been working on at the Cathedral. It links the crux of Andy Raether’s Slaugtherhouse 5 (5.14b) with the crux of Todd Perkins’s Treebeard (5.13c). He felt it might be as hard as 5.14c but has decided to go with 5.14b for now.

Photo: Keith Ladzinski

Speaking of Andy Raether, Chris Hirsch has made the 2nd (?) ascent of Andy’s route Cain at Willow River, WI. Andy originally gave it a grade of 5.14c while Chris has registered it as 5.14b.
If you haven’t already read this post by Sock Hands on how he prepares for his big sends…what are you waiting for?!? It’s a must read!
Check out this funny video Petzl has put together to promote their new harnesses:

Thanks to SplitterChoss for the link

Famed alpinist Steve House has a great post on the alpine rock climbing in Argentina on Patagonia’s The Cleanest Line blog. It looks like there is some really accessible alpine multi-pitch climbing to be had there. Hopefully this has gotten him in the right frame of mind for his upcoming attempt to make the first ascent of the West Face of our planet’s fifth highest peak, Makalu. Now that is going to be sick.
Steve House climbing in Argentina

Photo: Steve House/Cleanest Line
In hard grit news, 17 year-old Pete Whittaker did the FA of a cool (insane) looking route that he has called Dynamics of Change (E9 7a). Hit the link for a lot more cool pictures and a great write-up on the ascent.

Whittaker exiting the crux sequence – The route continues up and left with the pieces pictured being his last pieces of pro

Photo: Hot Aches Blog
The Patagonia store in Boulder is now open… – You can go and meet Kelly Cordes, Eric Decaria, Lynn Hill, Timmy O’Neill and Mark Wilford there on April 5th.
I would like to wish the speediest of recoveries to Tim Kettering who took a nasty spill off of Jedi Mind Tricks in Bishop. It looks like he will be joining the Boot of Doom club in short order.

News & Notes – 3/19/2008 from Climbing Narcissist

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News & Notes – 3/10/2008

Narc — Mon, 10 Mar 2008 19:45:28 +0000

Just an update on Beth Rodden’s new 5.14 trad route Meltdown. Big Up Productions was there filming her work on the route for the upcoming Dosage 5. Big Up shares their first hand takes on what went down including nuggets like, “After about 10 sessions of working it on top-rope Tommy was never able to figure out the moves” and “Tommy considers it much harder than the other Yosemite 5.14s he’s done, including the Changing Corners pitch of The Nose and the crux pitch of Dihedral Wall”. Check out their post for the rest.

Jamie Emerson has come through in a big way with some pictures of Dave Graham’s unrepeated V15 From Dirt Grows Flowers in Chironico, Switzerland. Jamie describes it as a V13 crimping sequence to a V12 mantle. Sick and really sick. For me these are the first pictures I have seen of the problem. It doesn’t look (or sound) incredibly aesthetic at a glance but I will never climb V15 so it doesn’t really matter. It should be interesting to see what happens if Daniel Woods is able to put some time into the problem.

Photo: B3Bouldering

Speaking of Dave Graham, he just updated his Pro Blog after who knows how many months. He is on his way back to Europe, and he explains in brief how he is actually tired of sport climbing. Also, Tim Kemple updated his blog and in it he explains how ping pong is cooler than climbing…in China.

Photo: Climbing.com

Fresh off making Adult Finals at ABS Nationals, 15 year old Flannery Shay-Nemirow climbed Center Route (V10) at Morrison, CO for the probable first female ascent this past weekend. No love on spraysheet updates lately though!

Photo: Straight into yer face lam

In good form after recently repeating Dreamtime (V14), Gabriele Moroni was in Bishop recently where he repeated Mandala Sit Start (V14) in short order. He is the 8th person to climb this line. ‘Gabry’ also added a “painful” & “rough” V9/10 to the Fly Boy Boulder. It starts as for the classic Haroun and the Sea of Stories and goes up and right. Apparently he felt that this new V9/10 was harder than Haroun… which was originally graded V12 but seems to be ripe for the downgrade.
Christian Core has opened a possible V15 at the Antro dei Druidi, Potala di Varazze (Italy) that he has dubbed Gioia.

Christian Core move by move on his new problem, Gioia (V15)

Photo: Roberto Armando – PlanetMountain

Dani Andrada climbs another 5.14d. Somewhat interesting is that he bolted the route not that long ago, but his ascent is already the route’s 4th (Usobiaga, Marin, Ondra).
And finally, more evidence how far behind America is in the world of sport climbing: 12 year olds sending 5.14c in Europe

News & Notes – 3/10/2008 from Climbing Narcissist

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Big Up to Arkansas – Updated

Narc — Fri, 29 Feb 2008 13:55:57 +0000

As I reported last week, Dave Graham has returned to Arkansas after tearing the place up over the New Year. Big Up is there to capture everything on film for us (Dosage 5 soon???) as Dave and his crew of Jason Kehl, Ty Landman, Jon Cardwell and Chad Greedy explore all the untapped sandstone around the Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. Check out the most recent post on the Big Up blog for some photos of what they’ve been up to.

Dave Graham on Release the Squirrels (V12) in Arkansas

Photo: Big Up Blog

No word on the effect of the “worlds mage wind” on the rest of the crew…

Update 2/29/08 – Another update from Big Up – Dave Graham recently added a 1 move wonder V14 he is calling Lost in the Hood. He also updated his 8a spraysheet: 2 V14s, 3 V13s and 2 V12s added to the woods of Arkansas in the past few weeks.

Photo: Big Up Blog

Big Up to Arkansas – Updated from Climbing Narcissist

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Red River Gorge RocTrip Video

Narc — Thu, 24 Jan 2008 17:16:44 +0000

Big Up Productions has posted a video they made after the recent Petzl RocTrip that took place in the Red River Gorge. The video features some really nice footage compared to the footage that Petzl has on their site. Hopefully this will be a part of Dosage 5. Featured climbs/climbers:

Chris Sharma, Dani Andrada, Gerome Pouvreau and Mickael Fuselier vying for the FA of Fifty Words for Pump (5.14c) with Fuselier nabbing the FA
Daniel Woods, Emily Harrington and Sean McColl on Thanatopsis (5.14a/b) with McColl making the flash

Chris Sharma on the Men’s “Ultimate Route” – Fifty Words for Pump

Daniel Woods on Thanatopsis

You can download the video in a much higher quality than youtube directly to your computer by clicking here.

If you are looking for more perspective on the Roctrip, Colette McInerney (Joe Kinder’s better half) has a good writeup on her firsthand experience.

Red River Gorge RocTrip Video from Climbing Narcissist

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Dave Graham Tearing Up Arkansas

Narc — Fri, 04 Jan 2008 19:44:40 +0000

Despite the (deserved) attention being focused on the sending taking place at Hueco, people are actually bouldering in other parts of the country. Take Dave Graham for instance who rang in the New Year at Arkansas’s Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. He has had a rather productive last week to end 2007 and start 2008 on a high note. He has done 3 solid repeats in Anti-Hero (V13), Sharma’s King Lion (DG’s beta warrants V12) and a flash of Bloody Knuckles (V11). Along with that he has established new problems All Screwed Up (V13), Southern Lean (V12), The Dirty 30 (V12) and The Dirty 40 (V12). Not a bad week. It looks like Chad Greedy has been climbing with Dave so I would expect that we will see some video footage popping up somewhere in the coming months.

I have always meant to check out HCR but haven’t been able to for various reasons. If you are interested in going, you can download a free topo on the bouldering at HRC here.

You can see footage of the highball iron cross problem King Lion in both Dosage 3 (Sharma) or at the Momentum Video Magazine free area (Pringle).

Chris Sharma on King Lion

Here is Ty Landman on the FA of The Anti-Hero from Moonclimbing

Dave Graham Tearing Up Arkansas from Climbing Narcissist

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