8a recently posted an interesting article on really hard (5.14d and up) routes that haven’t been repeated despite having been established years ago. Most of the routes seem unrepeated as much for their obscurity as for their difficulty, but it is definitely an interesting idea for discussion. I imagine a list for unrepeated hard boulders [...]
Hard, Unrepeated American Boulders
- Andre Di Felice, Anthony Chertudi, Bernd Zangerl, Brian Antheunisse, Brian Hedrick, Brion Voges, Carlo Traversi, Chris Sharma, Chris Webb Parsons, Cory French, Dan Beall, Daniel Woods, Dave Graham, Ethan Pringle, Gregor Peirce, Guillaume Glairon-Mondet, Isaac Caldiero, James Kassay, James Litz, Jason Kehl, Johnny Goicoechea, Jon Cardwell, Jorg Verhoeven, Kevin Jorgeson, Luke Parady, Matt Bosley, Matt Hong, Matt Wilder, Max Zolotukhin, Nalle Hukkataival, Nick Duttle, Paul Robinson, Phil Schaal, Sam Davis, Sam Edwards, Sean McColl, Shawn Diamond, Simon Parton, Tim Clifford, Tony Lamiche, Ty Landman
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Video Friday – 2/10/2012
February 10, 2012
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Jimmy Webb’s Climbed 99 Problems And The Island (V14) Was One
February 9, 2012
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Dean Potter On Nat Geo This Sunday
February 9, 2012
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Golden Direct Repeated By Ben Spannuth
February 8, 2012
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Great News From Red Rock
February 8, 2012
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Alex Johnson Climbs Lethal Design (V12)
February 7, 2012
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Low Gravity Week In Fontainebleau
February 6, 2012
News & Notes
Jimmy Webb’s Climbed 99 Problems And The Island (V14) Was One
Ok. Horrible title. Forgive me.
Anyway, Jimmy Webb is about a week into his first trip to Font. Last week he managed that one day ascent of Kheops Assis (V14), and according to his 8a scorecard this week he managed a relatively quick repeat of Dave Graham’s The Island a once V15 but now maybe V14 at Coquibus Rumont. This latest ascent puts him at 99 problems V10 or harder in the past 12 months which is notable for being 99 more V10s or harder than I’ve done in my entire life1.
Golden Direct Repeated By Ben Spannuth
Ben Spannuth, who recently started a blog at LT11, grabbed a rare repeat Golden Direct at the Cathedral in Southern Utah according to his 8a scorecard. Golden Direct was first done in 2008 by Joe Kinder at a suggested grade of 5.14d and was subsequently repeated by the likes of Chris Sharma and Jonathan Siegrist. Having climbed five other routes in the 5.14c/d range in the past 6 months, Spannuth felt Golden Direct warranted a grade of 5.14c.
1 CommentAlex Johnson Climbs Lethal Design (V12)
Alex Johnson gave the highballs in Bishop a break to check out the bouldering in Red Rock, Nevada where she repeated the V12 highball Lethal Design according to her 8a scorecard:
great support crew and tons of pads! long and crimpy. worked out all the moves quick and sent first burn.
Since the start of 2012 she has done some eight V10′s or harder across Yosemite, Bishop and Red Rock.
Update: Climbing.com caught up with Johnson to discuss the ascent
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