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Cool update from Jason Kehl about time spent in Hueco Tanks with Ashima Shiraishi:
I personally think grades are meaningless, a rough estimate. Ashima has proven this by taking everything we thought they new about grades and throwing it out the window. Its all about your perspective not about a number someone labeled the rock with.

It was just like Free Hueco, except there was no Pete’s, and Obe wasn’t there collecting rent, and Chris Sharma wasn’t around. But the vibe was fresh.
Dave Graham blogs for Five Ten about his recent stint in Hueco that yielded several new problems but he somehow failed to mention my contributions to the effort. The nerve!

Jason Kehl mentions in another update on his Facebook page that Ashima Shiraishi has done Barefoot On Sacred Ground (V11 or 12) with the highball See Spot Run finish thrown in for good measure. The Big Up cameras have been rolling throughout her trip so look to see Ashima once again in this year’s Reel Rock Tour. Kehl has had his camera rolling so look for footage from Ashima’s trip to appear somewhere at some point in the near future.
Ethan Pringle is back at Mt. Clark, home to that one route first done by that one guy:
Projecting a route like this requires all of your attention, and having to devote all of your attention to a route like this can get really tiring really fast. At some point, you just want to get it over with. Of course, afterward you feel a mix of relief and loss. Relief that you’re done and the epic is over, and loss that this magnificent line doesn’t require your presence anymore. But for me, I think I’ll have to take a nice long break from serious route projects for a little while after this. Like Randy Levitt said, “It’s like a limestone El Cap.” Obviously, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but it does sort of convey the amount of work required to complete a project of this caliber.
Pringle is no stranger to Jumbo Love, having tried it even before its FA back in 2008. You can see some footage of his attempts here.
I don’t know about you, but I always try my best to climb close to an actual bathroom. In case you don’t, the Access Fund has a nice refresher on what to do when nature calls.
I guess it shouldn’t be surprising that with training like this that Canadian Yves Gravelle was able to climb his first V14 in Daniel Woods’ Echale in Clear Creek Canyon according to his 8a scorecard.
© 2012 Climbing Narcissist. All Rights Reserved.




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