Climbing Areas Archives: Switzerland

5.14 Trad Ascent By James Pearson

A few weeks old, but this a nice report by James Pearson about his efforts to do the 2nd ascent of an old 5.14 sport route in La Balma, Switzerland called A Denti Tretti on natural gear:

when I first came to look at the route 1 week ago there were cobwebs in the cracks and it had obviously been a long time since anyone’s last visit.  Perhaps its the obvious difficulty in leaving the floor that puts people off, but past that initial section, the route looked just as good, if not better than its popular neighbour.  Even better still, it looked to be relatively well protected, and I decided to give it an on-sight attempt, directly on trad gear!

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V14 FA In Switzerland By Jimmy Webb

V14 FA In Switzerland By Jimmy Webb

Jimmy Webb closed out his Swiss trip in fine style by doing the FA of La Rustica, a potential V14 in Valle Bavona:

One of the coolest projects i’ve ever climbed. Big thanks to Carlo for showing me this thing. Climbed it basically on my last day, last literal try. Couldn’t ask for a better finish to my trip.

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Webb & Traversi Getting It Done In Switzerland

Webb & Traversi Getting It Done In Switzerland

Jimmy Webb & Carlo Traversi rack up the hard sends in Switzerland

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The Story Of Two Worlds (V15) Repeated By Carlo Traversi

The Story Of Two Worlds (V15) Repeated By Carlo Traversi

The hits just keep coming for Carlo Traversi as he has done the 5th1 ascent of Dave Graham’s The Story Of Two Worlds (V15) in Cresciano, Switzerland. This send comes shortly after Traversi repeated Meadowlark Lemon (V15) in Red Rocks back in February.

  1. Or maybe 6th depending on how many times you count Dai Koyamada sending this problem or some variation thereof
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SCIN

Tommy Caldwell, writing for La Sportiva about a trip to Switzerland that had him questioning the mantra that “Sport Climbing is Neither”:

Yeah, sport climbing is the safe type of climbing… right. That is what I was telling myself as I looked down and saw my rope hanging free for thirty feet then gently arcing towards my last bolt more than 40 feet away. I looked up… no more bolts in sight and no possible place for gear either. If I fall here I am looking at a 100-foot fall that will leave me hanging 40 feet below my belayer. But it’s a free fall. I should be all right…maybe.

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Rok Klancnik Repeating From Dirt Grows The Flowers (V15)

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Big Island (V15) And More By Chris Schulte

Fresh off a side trip to Switzerland that saw him repeat problems like The Dagger (V14), Chris Schulte returned to Fontainebleau where he finished off Nalle Hukkataival’s The Realist (V14) and his long-term project Vincent Pochon’s The Big Island (V15).  For someone who enjoys climbing compression problems as much as Schulte does, this is surely a tick for the lifetime list.  Well done.

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