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News & Notes 6/5/08
Escalade Magazine Steph Davis Interview
Escalade Magazine recently caught up with Steph Davis after her Free Solo and Base Jump from Castleton Tower in Moab, UT. Here is a translation of the French interview into English.
News & Notes – 5/8/2008
Not much Earth shattering news going down lately but here are a few things to check out from the past few weeks: Joe Kinder prepared nicely for his 2 month trip to Spain with his recent FA of Golden Direct (5.14d) at the Cathedral in Utah. You can read more about it here, here and [...]
News & Notes: Spring Break Edition
A few general bits of climbing news along with several links to check out what people were up to over Spring Break: Early last month, Dean Potter completed a 40 foot roof project he called Zen Garden near Moab, UT. He described it as “the hardest roof crack that I know of”. Besides the power [...]
Dean Potter: Learning to Fly?
Thanks to the reader with the semi-inappropriate screen name that sent me a heads up on this article. Climbing has hit the front pages of The New York Times…sort of. Controversial climber, slack liner and BASE-jumper Dean Potter has a big article on his latest non-climbing adventure: a combination of highlining and Base-jumping. For those [...]
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Jimmy Webb’s Climbed 99 Problems And The Island (V14) Was One
February 9, 2012
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Dean Potter On Nat Geo This Sunday
February 9, 2012
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Golden Direct Repeated By Ben Spannuth
February 8, 2012
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Great News From Red Rock
February 8, 2012
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Alex Johnson Climbs Lethal Design (V12)
February 7, 2012
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Low Gravity Week In Fontainebleau
February 6, 2012
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Paul Robinson Punches His Ticket For Memory Is Parallax (V14)
February 6, 2012
News & Notes
Jimmy Webb’s Climbed 99 Problems And The Island (V14) Was One
Ok. Horrible title. Forgive me.
Anyway, Jimmy Webb is about a week into his first trip to Font. Last week he managed that one day ascent of Kheops Assis (V14), and according to his 8a scorecard this week he managed a relatively quick repeat of Dave Graham’s The Island a once V15 but now maybe V14 at Coquibus Rumont. This latest ascent puts him at 99 problems V10 or harder in the past 12 months which is notable for being 99 more V10s or harder than I’ve done in my entire life1.
Golden Direct Repeated By Ben Spannuth
Ben Spannuth, who recently started a blog at LT11, grabbed a rare repeat Golden Direct at the Cathedral in Southern Utah according to his 8a scorecard. Golden Direct was first done in 2008 by Joe Kinder at a suggested grade of 5.14d and was subsequently repeated by the likes of Chris Sharma and Jonathan Siegrist. Having climbed five other routes in the 5.14c/d range in the past 6 months, Spannuth felt Golden Direct warranted a grade of 5.14c.
1 CommentAlex Johnson Climbs Lethal Design (V12)
Alex Johnson gave the highballs in Bishop a break to check out the bouldering in Red Rock, Nevada where she repeated the V12 highball Lethal Design according to her 8a scorecard:
great support crew and tons of pads! long and crimpy. worked out all the moves quick and sent first burn.
Since the start of 2012 she has done some eight V10′s or harder across Yosemite, Bishop and Red Rock.
Update: Climbing.com caught up with Johnson to discuss the ascent
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