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Governor Dodge Bouldering
Nameless Arete
The so-called Nameless Arete (V4) at Governor Dodge is one of those problems that can be really frustrating. Based on its grade it shouldn’t be that hard (in the grand scheme of things). However, it requires a certain amount of subtlety and refinement of beta that can be hard to figure out. Especially for me…
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Sandstone Violence
Over the past month, as Fall conditions have finally arrived here in Wisconsin, I have been slowly working my way through some of the harder problems at Governor Dodge in an attempt to get some fitness back. The end goal has been to repeat the classic problem Sandstone Violence (V8). I have been wanting to [...]
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Theater Of The Absurd
My Dad often asks me why I don’t just use a ladder to get to the top of a boulder when I tell him about our various bouldering excursions. That’s a valid question I suppose, but what he doesn’t understand is all the great aspects of climbing that go into a day at the boulders. [...]
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Governor Dodge Bouldering Video
I think it is safe to say that 2008 has been an above average year for bouldering development in Wisconsin. Websites like MountainProject have helped rekindle interest in bouldering at Governor Dodge, an area many people never really thought there was enough solid rock to climb on. Many new climbs ranging from V0 to V9 [...]
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Governor Dodge Bouldering Update 2
Yesterday was another beautiful and atypically pleasant summer day here in Wisconsin. Mrs. Narc and I had a good day bouldering out at Governor Dodge where we were able to do a couple more FA’s along with sampling some recent additions to the Dodge. The pace of development at the Dodge has only increased lately [...]
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Governor Dodge Bouldering Update
Last year I made a few trips to Governor Dodge State Park to check out some of the bouldering that I had heard was there. I found a few good problems and a lot of suspect rock. My remark to many people at the time when asked about the bouldering at “The Dodge” was that [...]
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Governor Dodge: The Good Times Are Killing Me
No One Gets Outta Here Alive (V2) is probably one of the best boulder problems at Governor Dodge State Park in Southwest Wisconsin. Check out these two sequences of photos featuring Nate & Tony climbing this gem.
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Video Friday – 2/10/2012
February 10, 2012
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Jimmy Webb’s Climbed 99 Problems And The Island (V14) Was One
February 9, 2012
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Dean Potter On Nat Geo This Sunday
February 9, 2012
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Golden Direct Repeated By Ben Spannuth
February 8, 2012
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Great News From Red Rock
February 8, 2012
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Alex Johnson Climbs Lethal Design (V12)
February 7, 2012
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Low Gravity Week In Fontainebleau
February 6, 2012
News & Notes
Jimmy Webb’s Climbed 99 Problems And The Island (V14) Was One
Ok. Horrible title. Forgive me.
Anyway, Jimmy Webb is about a week into his first trip to Font. Last week he managed that one day ascent of Kheops Assis (V14), and according to his 8a scorecard this week he managed a relatively quick repeat of Dave Graham’s The Island a once V15 but now maybe V14 at Coquibus Rumont. This latest ascent puts him at 99 problems V10 or harder in the past 12 months which is notable for being 99 more V10s or harder than I’ve done in my entire life1.
Golden Direct Repeated By Ben Spannuth
Ben Spannuth, who recently started a blog at LT11, grabbed a rare repeat Golden Direct at the Cathedral in Southern Utah according to his 8a scorecard. Golden Direct was first done in 2008 by Joe Kinder at a suggested grade of 5.14d and was subsequently repeated by the likes of Chris Sharma and Jonathan Siegrist. Having climbed five other routes in the 5.14c/d range in the past 6 months, Spannuth felt Golden Direct warranted a grade of 5.14c.
1 CommentAlex Johnson Climbs Lethal Design (V12)
Alex Johnson gave the highballs in Bishop a break to check out the bouldering in Red Rock, Nevada where she repeated the V12 highball Lethal Design according to her 8a scorecard:
great support crew and tons of pads! long and crimpy. worked out all the moves quick and sent first burn.
Since the start of 2012 she has done some eight V10′s or harder across Yosemite, Bishop and Red Rock.
Update: Climbing.com caught up with Johnson to discuss the ascent
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