With the Spring season at Joe’s Valley in full effect lately, Joe’s best known hard problem has been receiving a fair amount of attention lately with Jamie Emerson working it and Matt Wilder sending. The problem is, of course, Black Lung (V13). First climbed by the legendary Ben Moon during a roadtrip to the U.S. [...]
Matt Segal Sends New Trad Line “Smart Went Crazy” In Eldo
Matt Segal, who is probably most well known these days for his first free ascent of a route in Eldorado Canyon, CO’s Kloof Alcove called Iron Monkey (5.14), recently returned to the Kloof Alcove to add another heady trad route.
Paul Robinson Wins 2009 Hueco Rock Rodeo
Paul Robinson made his return of sorts to outdoor bouldering this past weekend at the Hueco Rock Rodeo. Apparently spending the past 5+ months rehabbing from his broken ankle hasn’t slowed him down much. In fact, his performance at the HRR combined with his performance at ABS Nationals last month makes it look as though [...]

Terre De Sienne (V14) Repeated Twice
Jon Cardwell and Matt Wilder have made the 5th and 6th ascents respectively of Fred Nicole’s Terre De Sienne (V14) at Hueco Tanks, TX.
Hueco Tanks Update: Hukkataival, Cardwell, Wilder and More
Bouldering news from Hueco Tanks, TX including a new V13 from Nalle Hukkataival and Jon Cardwell as well as a slew of V13 repeats. Other news makers include Matt Wilder, Andre Di Felice and Ryan Olson.

Matt Wilder Interview
Check out this lengthy interview with Matt Wilder. It’s definitely worth reading.

New Blog From Matt Wilder
Guidebook author and all around strong climber Matt Wilder has launched a new blog. Check it out for recent news on a new V11/12 in Colorado’s Frontrange.
- Climbing Bidness | A Million Ancient Bees: [...] What did you do this weekend? If you were To...
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Narc: There's nothing regular about James Litz...
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JMB: I suspect James Litz is the all-time leader in FRJ...
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colin: FRJA = first real job ascent. well done....
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Derek Jf: First trip to rumney nh, first time sport climbing...
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Andrew: awesome video!...
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PocketPumper: I was psyched to hear some actual climbing tips st...
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Regular Dude Climbs Just Do It (5.14c)
May 22, 2012
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What Did You Do This Weekend?
May 21, 2012
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Ethan Pringle On Jumbo Love
May 18, 2012
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Video Friday – 5/18/2012
May 18, 2012
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Mon Pote Assis (5.14a) By Heather Robinson
May 17, 2012
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When In Doubt Pack It Out
May 16, 2012
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Gravelle Repeats Echale (V14)
May 16, 2012
News & Notes
What Did You Do This Weekend?
Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold spent Saturday romping up big walls in Yosemite. The pair free climbed Freerider on El Cap (6:45 climbing), the South Face of Mt. Watkins (2:40 climbing) and the Regular Northwest Face on Half Dome (5 climbing) in just over 21 hours. More at Climbing.com. So…how was your weekend??
Ethan Pringle On Jumbo Love
Ethan Pringle is back at Mt. Clark, home to that one route first done by that one guy:
Projecting a route like this requires all of your attention, and having to devote all of your attention to a route like this can get really tiring really fast. At some point, you just want to get it over with. Of course, afterward you feel a mix of relief and loss. Relief that you’re done and the epic is over, and loss that this magnificent line doesn’t require your presence anymore. But for me, I think I’ll have to take a nice long break from serious route projects for a little while after this. Like Randy Levitt said, “It’s like a limestone El Cap.” Obviously, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but it does sort of convey the amount of work required to complete a project of this caliber.
Pringle is no stranger to Jumbo Love, having tried it even before its FA back in 2008. You can see some footage of those attempts here.
When In Doubt Pack It Out
I don’t know about you, but I always try my best to climb close to an actual bathroom. In case you don’t, the Access Fund has a nice refresher on what to do when nature calls.





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