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One of the trends in the online climbing world that’s gaining popularity is the self-filmed expedition report. While quality photographs of alpine expeditions make for great eye candy, they struggle to capture the full scope of what it’s like to be in the mountains. Fortunately for those of us stuck sitting at a desk climbers are more and more willing to carry a camcorder (increasingly HD to boot) in order to chronicle their trip for sponsors and/or general public enjoyment.
Matt Segal, who is probably most well known these days for his first free ascent of a route in Eldorado Canyon, CO’s Kloof Alcove called Iron Monkey (5.14), recently returned to the Kloof Alcove to add another heady trad route.
BS Productions has released their 5th climbing movie, Rewind. The movie includes highlights from previous BS Productions movies The Life, The Australia Project, Karma and Spray as well as random archival footage that has been amassed over years of shooting.
News & Notes from Shawn Diamond, Alex Johnson, Matt Segal, Matt Wilder, Tim Clifford and much more…
Ok. Horrible title. Forgive me.
Anyway, Jimmy Webb is about a week into his first trip to Font. Last week he managed that one day ascent of Kheops Assis (V14), and according to his 8a scorecard this week he managed a relatively quick repeat of Dave Graham’s The Island a once V15 but now maybe V14 at Coquibus Rumont. This latest ascent puts him at 99 problems V10 or harder in the past 12 months which is notable for being 99 more V10s or harder than I’ve done in my entire life1.
Ben Spannuth, who recently started a blog at LT11, grabbed a rare repeat Golden Direct at the Cathedral in Southern Utah according to his 8a scorecard. Golden Direct was first done in 2008 by Joe Kinder at a suggested grade of 5.14d and was subsequently repeated by the likes of Chris Sharma and Jonathan Siegrist. Having climbed five other routes in the 5.14c/d range in the past 6 months, Spannuth felt Golden Direct warranted a grade of 5.14c.
1 CommentAlex Johnson gave the highballs in Bishop a break to check out the bouldering in Red Rock, Nevada where she repeated the V12 highball Lethal Design according to her 8a scorecard:
great support crew and tons of pads! long and crimpy. worked out all the moves quick and sent first burn.
Since the start of 2012 she has done some eight V10′s or harder across Yosemite, Bishop and Red Rock.
Update: Climbing.com caught up with Johnson to discuss the ascent
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