Just an update on Beth Rodden’s new 5.14 trad route Meltdown. Big Up Productions was there filming her work on the route for the upcoming Dosage 5. Big Up shares their first hand takes on what went down including nuggets like, “After about 10 sessions of working it on top-rope Tommy was never able to [...]

News & Notes: Friday Links
Here are a few links for your Friday reading pleasures: A good post on the various ways to manage your rope(s) on multi-pitch routes Canada’s Tour de Bloc bouldering event in Fredericton will be broadcast live on the world wide web. This would be a very cool idea for comps like ABS Nationals no? (Dr. [...]

Trice Repeated Twice
Last week I somewhat jokingly was speculating on who would be first to repeat Jim Holloway’s Trice at Flagstaff Mountain after 30 years. Yesterday the answer ended up being Carlo Traversi, however Jamie Emerson was quick to follow suit, repeating Trice shortly after Carlo did. They both decided to give it the grade of V12. [...]
News & Notes – 11/7/07
I realize lately that I have been spending too much time blogging about myself and not enough time talking about all the action going down elsewhere so here goes nothing: During his recent work on Trice, Jamie Emerson made a slight deviation from the line of Trice and nabbed the 3rd ascent after Karn and [...]
Who Will Be 1st To Be 2nd?
It has been roughly 30 years since Jim Holloway established Trice (aka Another Hollway Route) at Flagstaff Mountain. Jim Holloway on Trice Photo: Rob Candelaria via Peter Beal Now with cooler temps descending on Boulder, the race is on to downgrade Trice to B2. Jamie Emerson working Trice Photo: Chuffer Carlo Traversi working Trice Who [...]
News & Notes! 10/8/2007
I’ve spent way too much time spraying about myself lately and not nearly enough time spraying about the accomplishments of others. Here is my attempt to make up for this fact: Andre DeFelice has had a good summer of progression up the bouldering grades. Last week he repeated Circadian Rhythm (V13) at Poudre Canyon, CO [...]
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colin: FRJA = first real job ascent. well done....
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Andrew: awesome video!...
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Regular Dude Climbs Just Do It (5.14c)
May 22, 2012
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What Did You Do This Weekend?
May 21, 2012
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Ethan Pringle On Jumbo Love
May 18, 2012
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Video Friday – 5/18/2012
May 18, 2012
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Mon Pote Assis (5.14a) By Heather Robinson
May 17, 2012
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When In Doubt Pack It Out
May 16, 2012
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Gravelle Repeats Echale (V14)
May 16, 2012
News & Notes
What Did You Do This Weekend?
Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold spent Saturday romping up big walls in Yosemite. The pair free climbed Freerider on El Cap (6:45 climbing), the South Face of Mt. Watkins (2:40 climbing) and the Regular Northwest Face on Half Dome (5 climbing) in just over 21 hours. More at Climbing.com. So…how was your weekend??
Ethan Pringle On Jumbo Love
Ethan Pringle is back at Mt. Clark, home to that one route first done by that one guy:
Projecting a route like this requires all of your attention, and having to devote all of your attention to a route like this can get really tiring really fast. At some point, you just want to get it over with. Of course, afterward you feel a mix of relief and loss. Relief that you’re done and the epic is over, and loss that this magnificent line doesn’t require your presence anymore. But for me, I think I’ll have to take a nice long break from serious route projects for a little while after this. Like Randy Levitt said, “It’s like a limestone El Cap.” Obviously, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but it does sort of convey the amount of work required to complete a project of this caliber.
Pringle is no stranger to Jumbo Love, having tried it even before its FA back in 2008. You can see some footage of those attempts here.
When In Doubt Pack It Out
I don’t know about you, but I always try my best to climb close to an actual bathroom. In case you don’t, the Access Fund has a nice refresher on what to do when nature calls.





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