American climbing superstar Dave Graham has opened a possible V15 (8c) in the forest of Fontainebleau, France.
News & Notes: Spring Break Edition
A few general bits of climbing news along with several links to check out what people were up to over Spring Break: Early last month, Dean Potter completed a 40 foot roof project he called Zen Garden near Moab, UT. He described it as “the hardest roof crack that I know of”. Besides the power [...]
Hard, Unrepeated American Routes
Based on the high level of interest in the list of potential V14 and harder boulder problems in North America, I thought it would be a good idea to try and assemble a similar list of Routes. To illustrate a certain point, I will limit the list to routes proposed 5.14d-ish or harder. Being that [...]
News & Notes – 3/19/2008
Climbing news: Rastaman Vibration Sit pictures, Midnight Express repeated, Steve House in Argentina, Steve Dieckhoff’s passing, Yosemite Bouldering, Ty Landman FAs and Pete Whittaker on the Hard Grit in Britain.
News & Notes – 3/10/2008
Just an update on Beth Rodden’s new 5.14 trad route Meltdown. Big Up Productions was there filming her work on the route for the upcoming Dosage 5. Big Up shares their first hand takes on what went down including nuggets like, “After about 10 sessions of working it on top-rope Tommy was never able to [...]

Dave Graham Midnight Express Video
Dave Graham doing the 3rd ascent (Landman, Woods) of Midnight Express (V14) in Boulder Canyon. Seth Allred recently did the problem’s 4th ascent. Video: Chad Greedy
Big Up to Arkansas – Updated
As I reported last week, Dave Graham has returned to Arkansas after tearing the place up over the New Year. Big Up is there to capture everything on film for us (Dosage 5 soon???) as Dave and his crew of Jason Kehl, Ty Landman, Jon Cardwell and Chad Greedy explore all the untapped sandstone around [...]
- Climbing Bidness | A Million Ancient Bees: [...] What did you do this weekend? If you were To...
-
Narc: There's nothing regular about James Litz...
-
JMB: I suspect James Litz is the all-time leader in FRJ...
-
colin: FRJA = first real job ascent. well done....
-
Derek Jf: First trip to rumney nh, first time sport climbing...
-
Andrew: awesome video!...
-
PocketPumper: I was psyched to hear some actual climbing tips st...
-
Regular Dude Climbs Just Do It (5.14c)
May 22, 2012
-
What Did You Do This Weekend?
May 21, 2012
-
Ethan Pringle On Jumbo Love
May 18, 2012
-
Video Friday – 5/18/2012
May 18, 2012
-
Mon Pote Assis (5.14a) By Heather Robinson
May 17, 2012
-
When In Doubt Pack It Out
May 16, 2012
-
Gravelle Repeats Echale (V14)
May 16, 2012
News & Notes
What Did You Do This Weekend?
Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold spent Saturday romping up big walls in Yosemite. The pair free climbed Freerider on El Cap (6:45 climbing), the South Face of Mt. Watkins (2:40 climbing) and the Regular Northwest Face on Half Dome (5 climbing) in just over 21 hours. More at Climbing.com. So…how was your weekend??
Ethan Pringle On Jumbo Love
Ethan Pringle is back at Mt. Clark, home to that one route first done by that one guy:
Projecting a route like this requires all of your attention, and having to devote all of your attention to a route like this can get really tiring really fast. At some point, you just want to get it over with. Of course, afterward you feel a mix of relief and loss. Relief that you’re done and the epic is over, and loss that this magnificent line doesn’t require your presence anymore. But for me, I think I’ll have to take a nice long break from serious route projects for a little while after this. Like Randy Levitt said, “It’s like a limestone El Cap.” Obviously, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but it does sort of convey the amount of work required to complete a project of this caliber.
Pringle is no stranger to Jumbo Love, having tried it even before its FA back in 2008. You can see some footage of those attempts here.
When In Doubt Pack It Out
I don’t know about you, but I always try my best to climb close to an actual bathroom. In case you don’t, the Access Fund has a nice refresher on what to do when nature calls.





Recent Comments