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	<title>Climbing Narcissist &#187; Reviews</title>
	<atom:link href="http://climbingnarc.com/category/reviews/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
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	<description>So obsessed with climbing it hurts...</description>
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		<title>Review:  Welcome To The Hood</title>
		<link>http://climbingnarc.com/2012/03/review-welcome-to-the-hood/</link>
		<comments>http://climbingnarc.com/2012/03/review-welcome-to-the-hood/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 27 Mar 2012 12:18:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Narc</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Reviews]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[PCI]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Welcome To The Hood]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://climbingnarc.com/?p=17769</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Welcome to the Hood[1.  WTTH from here on out] is the second offering, after the well-received The Schengen Files,  from Paul Robinson and Alex Kahn's PRAK Media.  WTTH follows Robinson, Daniel Woods, Guntram Jörg and Anthony Gullsten to various European hotspots. And much like The Schengen Files, WTTH was more or less filmed, edited and packaged for sale by the climbers themselves.  Since climbing movie reviews are notoriously difficult to write, I will try to keep this pretty simple.]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 15px; width:240px;">

			<img src="http://i2.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/wtth.jpg?w=240" data-recalc-dims="1" />

			</p><p><em>Welcome to the Hood</em><sup class='footnote' id='fnref-17769-1'><a href='#fn-17769-1' id='#fn-17769-1' rel='footnote'>1</a></sup> is the second offering, after the well-received <em><a title="Reviews Of The Schengen Files, The Swiss Account, Better Than Chocolate &amp; Midwest Unknown" href="http://climbingnarc.com/2011/08/reviews-of-the-schengen-files-the-swiss-account-better-than-chocolate-midwest-unknown/" target="_blank">The Schengen Files</a></em>,  from Paul Robinson and Alex Kahn&#8217;s PRAK Media.  <em>WTTH</em> follows Robinson, Daniel Woods, Guntram Jörg and Anthony Gullsten to various European hotspots. And much like <em>The Schengen Files</em>, <em>WTTH</em> was more or less filmed, edited and packaged for sale by the climbers themselves.  Since climbing movie reviews are notoriously difficult to write, I will try to keep this pretty simple.</p>
<h3>What it isn&#8217;t</h3>
<p><em>WTTH</em> is not a climbing movie with a story nor is it a movie with a varied soundtrack.  While the movie is ostensibly framed around a motif of the four climbers climbing in their &#8220;hood&#8221;, this is done so very loosely.  Since I believe it is important to know what to expect when sitting down to watch a climbing movie, know that, though the footage is well-done and the climbs are hard, this movie likely will not be thrilling to the casual climbing audiences in the way other movies may be.</p>
<h3>What it is</h3>
<p><em>WTTH, </em>however, is top notch climbing porn with almost 40 minutes of non-stop action.  You have four of the world&#8217;s best climbers climbing some of world&#8217;s most difficult boulder problems, several of which have not been seen before in this quality.  The movie includes great footage, highlights of which are Robinson on the <a title="Adam Ondra Visits Font, Normal Adam Ondra-Type Sending Ensues" href="http://climbingnarc.com/2011/12/adam-ondra-visits-font-normal-adam-ondra-type-sending-ensues/" target="_blank">FA of <strong>The Traphouse</strong> (V14)</a>, Gullsten repeating <strong>Anam Cara</strong> (V14), Jorg repeating <strong>Big Paw </strong>(V14/15)  and Woods&#8217; relatively effortless looking <a title="Fred Nicole’s Entlinge (V14/15) Flashed By Daniel Woods" href="http://climbingnarc.com/2011/11/fred-nicoles-entlinge-v1415-flashed-by-daniel-woods/" target="_blank">flash of <strong>Entlinge</strong> (V14/15)</a>.  These guys are great climbers and it shows throughout <em>WTTH</em>.</p>
<h3>Details</h3>
<p><strong>Trailer</strong></p>
<div class='embed-vimeo' style='text-align:center;'><iframe src='http://player.vimeo.com/video/36618541' width='575' height='323' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<p><strong>How long is it?</strong></p>
<p><strong></strong> ~40 minutes</p>
<p><strong>When is it released?</strong></p>
<p><strong></strong>Midnight GMT on April 2nd</p>
<p><strong>Where you can get it and for how much?</strong></p>
<p><strong></strong> <a href="http://27crags.com/films" target="_blank">HD Download</a> ($10.99) | <a href="http://www.bouldering.com/products/Welcome-To-The-Hood-DVD.html" target="_blank">DVD</a> ($19.99 w/ free worldwide shipping)</p>
<div class='footnotes' id='footnotes-17769'>
<div class='footnotedivider'></div>
<ol>
<li id='fn-17769-1'> WTTH from here on out <span class='footnotereverse'><a href='#fnref-17769-1'>&#8617;</a></span></li>
</ol>
</div>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>11</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>The Wizard&#8217;s Apprentice &amp; Park Life</title>
		<link>http://climbingnarc.com/2012/01/the-wizards-apprentice-park-life/</link>
		<comments>http://climbingnarc.com/2012/01/the-wizards-apprentice-park-life/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 16 Jan 2012 16:15:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Narc</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Reviews]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Park Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[The Wizard's Apprentice]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://climbingnarc.com/?p=16736</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A quick look at two movies released with the past few days:  The Wizard's Apprentice and Park Life]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 15px; width:240px;">

			<img src="http://i1.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/wizard_apprentice.jpg?w=240" data-recalc-dims="1" />

			</p><p>Friday is usually the day to talk about videos, but a couple of videos released within the past couple of days warrants a break in format.  The first is the long-awaited movie about Adam Ondra and the other is latest offering from the crew at Louder Than 11.</p>
<h3><em>The Wizard&#8217;s Apprentice</em></h3>
<p><div class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 310px"><a title="The Wizard's Apprentice" href="http://i1.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/wizard_apprentice.jpg" rel="lightbox[a]"><img class="    " style="margin-left: 5px; margin-right: 5px;" title="The Wizard's Apprentice" src="http://i1.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/wizard_apprentice.jpg?resize=300%2C209" alt="The Wizard's Apprentice" data-recalc-dims="1" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The Wizard&#39;s Apprentice</p></div>Well, it&#8217;s finally here.  After being <a href="http://climbingnarc.com/videos/adam-ondra-working-golpe-de-estado-5-15b-siurana-spain/" target="_blank">teased</a> and <a href="http://climbingnarc.com/videos/climbing-video-adam-ondra-having-a-bad-day/" target="_blank">teased</a> and <a href="http://climbingnarc.com/videos/alex-huber-talks-adam-ondra/" target="_blank">teased</a> for the better part of two years, the long-awaited film about Adam Ondra is finally available.  Was it worth the wait?  Well, it probably would have been better served being released about a year ago, but yes, it is still worth checking out.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ll spare you the gushing reviews you may have read elsewhere, but suffice to say that filmmaker Petr Pavlicek took something that would be hard to screw up—a movie about one of the world&#8217;s best climbers—and did a good job with it.</p>
<p>The documentary style film chronicles Ondra&#8217;s meteoric, yet at the same time very steady rise to the top of the climbing world.  Old footage of Ondra climbing as a kid and interviews with his parents and others close to him give the viewer a good insight into the fact that while Ondra is supremely talented, his success is as much a byproduct of hard work and dedication than anything else.</p>
<p>Smaller stories are woven throughout the 1 hour 40 minute movie—onsights and hard repeats in the Frankenjura, winning the 2009 Lead Climbing World Cup and hard bouldering in Switzerland—but much of the movie focuses on Ondra&#8217;s efforts to climb his two hardest routes to date at the time of filming:  <strong><a title="Adam Ondra’s Hardest Route Yet" href="http://climbingnarc.com/2009/10/adam-ondras-hardest-route-yet/" target="_blank">Marina Superstar (5.15a/b)</a></strong> in Sardinia and <strong><a title="Adam Ondra Nabs 2nd Ascent Of Sharma’s Golpe de Estado (5.15b)" href="http://climbingnarc.com/2010/03/adam-ondra-nabs-2nd-ascent-of-sharmas-golpe-de-estado-5-15b-siurana/" target="_blank">Golpe de estado (5.15b)</a></strong> in Siurana.  While there is a lot of footage out there already on the internet from this time period, much of which was shared by Pavlicek in the prolonged run-up to this film&#8217;s release, the extended format of the movie helps provide additional context beyond what was shown online.</p>
<p>Like I said, I think the film would have been better served if it had been released sooner since so much has happened in Adam Ondra&#8217;s climbing career since filming was finished for this project.  That said, the film does provide a great opportunity for the viewer to get a glimpse into the life of one of the most unique talents our sport has ever seen.  If you&#8217;re reading this website odds are pretty good that you&#8217;ll like the movie<sup class='footnote' id='fnref-16736-1'><a href='#fn-16736-1' id='#fn-16736-1' rel='footnote'>1</a></sup>.</p>
<h5>Website:</h5>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.adamondrafilm.com/en/news" target="_blank">HD Download</a></li>
</ul>
<div>
<h5>Cost:</h5>
<ul>
<li>€16.00 or about $20.82</li>
</ul>
<div>
<h5>Trailer:</h5>
</div>
<div><div class='embed-vimeo' style='text-align:center;'><iframe src='http://player.vimeo.com/video/11634085' width='540' height='304' frameborder='0'></iframe></div></div>
</div>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<h3><em>Park Life</em></h3>
<p><div class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 310px"><a title="Park Life" href="http://i1.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/park_life.png" rel="lightbox[a]"><img class="   " style="margin-left: 5px; margin-right: 5px;" title="Park Life" src="http://i1.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/park_life.png?resize=300%2C204" alt="Park Life" data-recalc-dims="1" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Park Life</p></div><em>Park Life </em>is the latest offering from the crew at <a href="http://louderthan11.com" target="_blank">Louder Than 11</a> which of course can mean only one thing:  a FREE bouldering video.  The nearly 30 minute feature follows the entire LT11 crew as they sample some of the finest granite bouldering in the world in Yosemite Valley.  Interspersed throughout the quality climbing shots are the thoughts from each of the climbers about what drives them to pursue a life of climbing.</p>
<p>Do yourself a favor and block 30 minutes out of your <span style="text-decoration: line-through;">work day</span> day and check this video out.</p>
<h5>Website:</h5>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://lt11.com/2012/01/16/park-life-yosemite-bouldering/" target="_blank">Park Life</a></li>
</ul>
<h5>Cost:</h5>
<ul>
<li>FREE &#8211; <a href="http://climbingnarc.com/videos/park-life/" target="_blank">Watch the movie right here</a></li>
</ul>
<div>
<div>
<h5>Trailer:</h5>
</div>
<div><div class='embed-vimeo' style='text-align:center;'><iframe src='http://player.vimeo.com/video/34769859' width='540' height='304' frameborder='0'></iframe></div></div>
</div>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<div class='footnotes' id='footnotes-16736'>
<div class='footnotedivider'></div>
<ol>
<li id='fn-16736-1'> Just brace yourself for <span style="text-decoration: line-through;">a few</span> a ton of wobblers and you&#8217;ll be all set. <span class='footnotereverse'><a href='#fnref-16736-1'>&#8617;</a></span></li>
</ol>
</div>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://climbingnarc.com/2012/01/the-wizards-apprentice-park-life/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>23</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>What&#8217;s Your Scene?</title>
		<link>http://climbingnarc.com/2011/10/whats-your-scene/</link>
		<comments>http://climbingnarc.com/2011/10/whats-your-scene/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 26 Oct 2011 14:18:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Narc</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Contests]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Reviews]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[The Scene]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://climbingnarc.com/?p=15611</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Find out how you can win a copy of Chuck Fryberger's latest movie, The Scene]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 15px; width:240px;">

			<img src="http://i0.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/the_scene.jpg?w=240" data-recalc-dims="1" />

			</p><p>It&#8217;s been about a month now since Chuck Fryberger&#8217;s latest movie, <em><a href="http://www.thescenefilm.com" target="_blank">The Scene</a></em>, was released.  In that span I&#8217;ve watched the movie three separate times and my impressions of the movie have improved with each viewing.</p>
<p>My first viewing left me feeling a bit <del>nonplussed</del> underwhelmed afterwards, but this was probably due, in part, to climbing movie burnout I was experiencing at the time.  Since people seemed psyched about the movie when I brought it up on the <a href="http://facebook.com/climbingnarc" target="_blank">ClimbingNarc Facebook page</a> I watched the movie a 2nd time with a clearer head and then again this past week when it was screened at the local climbing gym.  I enjoyed the movie more each of these times, especially in the large group setting at the gym.  It was fun to see people&#8217;s reaction to various scenes like Nalle Hukkataival sending <strong>Mask Of God</strong> or Dave Graham being Dave Graham.</p>
<p>Like Fryberger&#8217;s previous movies <em>Pure</em> and <em>Core</em>, <em>The Scene</em> is shot in beautiful Super Ultra High Definition<sup class='footnote' id='fnref-15611-1'><a href='#fn-15611-1' id='#fn-15611-1' rel='footnote'>1</a></sup>, and there is a nice diversity of climbing and climbers covered including one of the few times you&#8217;ll see Chris Sharma in a movie not shot by Big Up Productions.  The movie covers basically all kinds of rock climbing inside and out, both here in the U.S. as well as in Europe.  There are still things about the movie that I didn&#8217;t care for like the general overuse of slow-mo and cutaway shots, and the segments on Bishop and Joe&#8217;s Valley didn&#8217;t seem to fit in with the &#8220;scene&#8221; theme of the movie either.  So, like I said, my overall impression of the movie went from somewhat ambivalent to generally positive and the movie has a firm home in my &#8220;watch again&#8221; pile of climbing movies.</p>
<div class='embed-vimeo' style='text-align:center;'><iframe src='http://player.vimeo.com/video/23320585' width='540' height='304' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<p><em>The Scene</em> is <a href="http://www.thescenefilm.com/Buy.html" target="_blank">available for purchase</a> on either HD Download (several languages), DVD or Blu-Ray at prices ranging from $19.95 to $39.95.  If you&#8217;d like to win your own copy read on.</p>
<p>I have <strong>three</strong> copies of the movie to give away on the winner&#8217;s choice of either HD download, DVD or Blu-Ray.  The contest will run until the end of the day on November 4th.  All you need to do to enter is leave a comment with a valid e-mail address on this post with a funny slogan, haiku or some other type of description of your local climbing scene.  As an example, here&#8217;s what I might say about the scene where I live from my perspective:</p>
<p>Winters in the gym<br />
Real rock is a real long drive<br />
I just hurt myself</p>
<p>Or whatever.  Have fun with it and I&#8217;ll come up with some method of voting to pick the three best.  I may even throw in a free <a href="http://climbingnarc.com/shop/original-shirts/" target="_blank">ClimbingNarc.com T-Shirt</a> if the entries get real impressive.  Good luck!</p>
<div class='footnotes' id='footnotes-15611'>
<div class='footnotedivider'></div>
<ol>
<li id='fn-15611-1'>Not a technical term <span class='footnotereverse'><a href='#fnref-15611-1'>&#8617;</a></span></li>
</ol>
</div>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>60</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>Review:  A Fine Line</title>
		<link>http://climbingnarc.com/2011/09/review-a-fine-line/</link>
		<comments>http://climbingnarc.com/2011/09/review-a-fine-line/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 29 Sep 2011 15:00:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Narc</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Reviews]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[A Fine Line]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[PCI]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://climbingnarc.com/?p=15057</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A Fine Line follows the likes of Jimmy Webb, Brion Voges, Brad Weaver, Daniel Woods and Dave Graham as they spend a few months doing what they do best,  namely doing nothing but bouldering.  While ostensibly a "bouldering movie", A Fine Line is in many ways not your typical bouldering movie.]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 15px; width:240px;">

			<img src="http://i1.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/a_fine_line.jpg?w=240" data-recalc-dims="1" />

			</p><p><em>A Fine Line</em> comes to viewers courtesy of Josh Fowler and Andrew Kornylak, the latter of whom is best known for his excellent <em>Beta</em> series, which highlights problems at each stop on the Triple Crown Bouldering Series circuit.  With <em>A Fine Line</em>, Fowler and Kornylak construct a longer-form movie<sup class='footnote' id='fnref-15057-1'><a href='#fn-15057-1' id='#fn-15057-1' rel='footnote'>1</a></sup> that offers the same compelling visual storytelling found in the <em>Beta </em>clips.</p>
<p>The movie follows the likes of Jimmy Webb, Brion Voges, Brad Weaver, Daniel Woods and Dave Graham as they spend a few months doing what they do best,  namely doing nothing but bouldering.  While ostensibly a &#8220;bouldering movie&#8221;, <em>A Fine Line</em> is in many ways not your typical bouldering movie.</p>
<p>Dialogue is usually a liability for bouldering movies, but with this movie&#8217;s documentary style, the perspective of each climber is conveyed in a natural and not contrived way.  The dialogue added by the featured climbers and the always thoughtful Peter Beal really add to the movie and serve to set a framework whereby the viewer is able to explore their own personal motivations for pursuing bouldering.</p>
<p>Whereas most bouldering movies are about chasing and achieving some specific ascent, <em>A Fine Line</em> barely mentions what problems are even being climbed.  In fact, Daniel Woods&#8217; repeat of <strong>Warpath</strong> (V14) might have been the only instance where a grade or a problem name was even mentioned, and in many ways Jimmy Webb&#8217;s struggles with the problem stay with the viewer longer than Woods&#8217; send.  The astute viewer will recognize many of the problems from LRC, Mt. Evans and Castle Rocks, that are shown, but the individual boulder problems only serve as a canvas for Kornylak and Fowler to tell their story.</p>
<p>The only thing I found lacking in the movie was a female perspective, which was touched on briefly with the appearance of Kasia Pietras climbing a few problems.  It would have been interesting to hear more from a woman about an activity, bouldering, that is generally more male-dominated than climbing as a whole.</p>
<p>So, I liked <em>A Fine Line</em> quite a bit, but you don&#8217;t have to just take my word for it.  Here are a few other people&#8217;s opinions on the movie.</p>
<p><a href="http://whitneyboland.wordpress.com/2011/09/19/a-movie-review-of-a-fine-line/" target="_blank">Whitney Boland:</a></p>
<blockquote><p>After seeing a series of climbing films at the Summer Outdoor Retailers Show back in August, it seems the climbing industry is moving away from pure climbing porn, and shifting towards meaningful stories that capture us in a way we all can identify. “A Fine Line” does this, and illuminates, just for a moment, a puzzle piece in the human quest.</p></blockquote>
<p><a href="http://eveningsends.com/2011/09/review-a-fine-line" target="_blank">Andrew Bisharat:</a></p>
<blockquote><p>The film isn’t just about Webb and Voges’ search to find hard boulder problems; <em>the film is about the search itself,</em> and I think therein is the difference.</p></blockquote>
<p><a href="http://www.joekindkid.com/?p=7140" target="_blank">Joe Kinder:</a></p>
<blockquote><p>Hard boulder problems, great theories, motivation, camaraderie, real life as a climber, amazing camera work, and a great story. I recommend you all take a look at the trailer and cop it when it comes out. I watched it twice and honestly would like to watch it again soon. Great work Andrew and Josh. You inspired me.</p></blockquote>
<h3>Website:</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.hdclimbingvideos.com/products/fine-line-ak-productions-dvd-preorder" target="_blank">A Fine Line</a></li>
</ul>
<h3>Cost:</h3>
<ul>
<li>$19.99 DVD Preorder &#8211; Shipping early October</li>
</ul>
<h3>Trailer:</h3>
<div class='embed-vimeo' style='text-align:center;'><iframe src='http://player.vimeo.com/video/28677263' width='540' height='304' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<div class='footnotes' id='footnotes-15057'>
<div class='footnotedivider'></div>
<ol>
<li id='fn-15057-1'>Around 45 minutes in length <span class='footnotereverse'><a href='#fnref-15057-1'>&#8617;</a></span></li>
</ol>
</div>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>10</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>2011 Reel Rock Film Tour Kicks Off Tonight</title>
		<link>http://climbingnarc.com/2011/09/2011-reel-rock-film-tour-kicks-off-tonight/</link>
		<comments>http://climbingnarc.com/2011/09/2011-reel-rock-film-tour-kicks-off-tonight/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 15 Sep 2011 17:30:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Narc</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Reviews]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Reel Rock Film Tour]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://climbingnarc.com/?p=15113</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A look at the 6th edition of the Reel Rock Film tour which kicks off tonight]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 15px; width:240px;">

			<img src="http://i0.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/reel-rock-2011-ad.jpg?w=240" data-recalc-dims="1" />

			</p><p>Tonight the 2011 <a href="http://reelrocktour.com" target="_blank">Reel Rock Film Tour</a> kicks off officially<sup class='footnote' id='fnref-15113-1'><a href='#fn-15113-1' id='#fn-15113-1' rel='footnote'>1</a></sup> with two shows at Boulder, Colorado&#8217;s Boulder Theater.  2011 marks the 6th year for the tour, so I thought it would be interesting quickly review the prior five years before looking at this year&#8217;s show.  Here are the years and the movies that were shown as part of the tour:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://2006.reelrocktour.com/" target="_blank">2006</a> &#8211; <em>First Ascent</em> &amp; <em>Dosage 4</em></li>
<li><a href="http://2007.reelrocktour.com/" target="_blank">2007</a> &#8211; <em>King Lines</em> &amp; <em>Committed</em></li>
<li><a href="http://2008.reelrocktour.com/" target="_blank">2008</a> &#8211; <em><a href="http://climbingnarc.com/2008/10/the-sharp-end-dvd-review/" target="_blank">The Sharp End</a></em> &amp; a series of shorts about bouldering in South Africa, <a href="http://climbingnarc.com/2008/09/beth-tommy-caldwell-climbing-grand-canyon-video/" target="_blank">exploring the Grand Canyon</a>, Dean Potter BASE jumping and onsight climbing.  2008 also marked the debut of first film making contest.</li>
<li><a href="http://2009.reelrocktour.com/" target="_blank">2009</a> &#8211; <em><a href="http://climbingnarc.com/2009/10/interview-with-josh-lowell-about-progression-big-up-productions-latest-release/" target="_blank">Progression</a></em> and episodes from <em><a href="http://climbingnarc.com/tag/first-ascent-the-series/" target="_blank">First Ascent:  The Series</a></em></li>
<li><a href="http://2010.reelrocktour.com/" target="_blank">2010</a> &#8211; No main film being shown but rather a series of shorts highlighting Chris Sharma&#8217;s work on First Round, First Minute, Daniel Woods and Paul Robinson climbing their hardest problems, Ueli Steck doing his thing and more.</li>
</ul>
<p>This year&#8217;s tour follows the format of last year&#8217;s with each two hour show being comprised of <a href="http://reelrocktour.com/films/" target="_blank">several shorts</a> <sup class='footnote' id='fnref-15113-2'><a href='#fn-15113-2' id='#fn-15113-2' rel='footnote'>2</a></sup> and two winners from the film making contest.  The shorts cover a wide range of climbing—bouldering, comps, trad climbing, speed climbing, mountaineering, ice climbing—and herein lies the key challenge that tour co-creators Big Up and Sender Films are trying to overcome.  With an endless stream of free videos littering the internet, each film in the Reel Rock Tour, in my opinion, sets itself apart by not only impressing the viewer with great visuals but also telling compelling stories at the same time.</p>
<p>A good example of this is the <em>Origins:  Obe and Ashima</em> short, which chronicles the relationship between 9-year-old prodigy Ashima Shiraishi and coach Obe Carrion.  While the visuals of Shiraishi winning ABS Youth Nationals and sending hard boulders in Hueco<sup class='footnote' id='fnref-15113-3'><a href='#fn-15113-3' id='#fn-15113-3' rel='footnote'>3</a></sup> are interesting in their own right, the stories behind not only their coach-pupil relationship but Carrion&#8217;s career in the climbing industry was what really made that film memorable.</p>
<span class='embed-youtube' style='text-align:center; display: block;'><iframe class='youtube-player' type='text/html' width='540' height='334' src='http://www.youtube.com/embed/L35qBS7XqvI?version=3&#038;rel=1&#038;fs=1&#038;showsearch=0&#038;showinfo=1&#038;iv_load_policy=1&#038;wmode=transparent' frameborder='0'></iframe></span>
<p>The only film I didn&#8217;t really understand was the <em>Slacklife</em> piece with Andy Lewis.  I guess I missed the part where slacklining went from something you did on a rest day at Miguel&#8217;s to a full-fledged sport, but even without that lack of appreciation on my part, it was difficult to enjoy watching someone repeatedly risk his life for little purpose other than that of perhaps risking his life.  The film tries to touch on the danger inherent in Lewis&#8217; lifestyle, but it&#8217;s hard to balance repeated acts of recklessness<sup class='footnote' id='fnref-15113-4'><a href='#fn-15113-4' id='#fn-15113-4' rel='footnote'>4</a></sup> with a few comments from friends expressing concern that Lewis may not be long for this world<sup class='footnote' id='fnref-15113-5'><a href='#fn-15113-5' id='#fn-15113-5' rel='footnote'>5</a></sup>.  The decision to make this film the closing segment of the show seemed just as odd as including it at all.   The film is clearly intended to evoke a wide-range of emotional responses from people<sup class='footnote' id='fnref-15113-6'><a href='#fn-15113-6' id='#fn-15113-6' rel='footnote'>6</a></sup>, but it seems like the Reel Rock show could have ended on a better note<sup class='footnote' id='fnref-15113-7'><a href='#fn-15113-7' id='#fn-15113-7' rel='footnote'>7</a></sup>.</p>
<p>That complaint notwithstanding, the Reel Rock Tour is certain to be a hit yet again.  There is a nice mix of physical and emotional elements throughout each of the films that combine to tell interesting stories which should be more than enough to entertain audiences.</p>
<p>If  the tour is hitting <a href="http://reelrocktour.com/calendar/" target="_blank">a town near you</a> I&#8217;d strongly encourage you to check it out.  It&#8217;s usually a pretty good party and a great excuse to check out some climbing on a big screen with a psyched crowd.  If you can&#8217;t make it or there are no screenings near you, then there&#8217;s always the DVD/download to look forward to.</p>
<div class='footnotes' id='footnotes-15113'>
<div class='footnotedivider'></div>
<ol>
<li id='fn-15113-1'>There are simultaneous shows tonight in North Carolina and Minnesota as well <span class='footnotereverse'><a href='#fnref-15113-1'>&#8617;</a></span></li>
<li id='fn-15113-2'>With <em><a href="http://climbingnarc.com/videos/trailer-cold/" target="_blank">Cold</a> </em>being a late but very welcome addition to the line up <span class='footnotereverse'><a href='#fnref-15113-2'>&#8617;</a></span></li>
<li id='fn-15113-3'> The astute viewer will note that the <a href="http://climbingnarc.com/2011/04/more-on-ashima-shiraishis-trip-to-hueco/" target="_blank">&#8220;controversy&#8221; surrounding her dab</a> on Right Martini was not mentioned at all in the film despite the tree brush being clear in the footage and the topic first being raised by Big Up at the time it happened.  They don&#8217;t, however, make any specific claim that she sent the problem either so one could understand how they decided to leave the debate over the nuances of dabbing for the interwebs. <span class='footnotereverse'><a href='#fnref-15113-3'>&#8617;</a></span></li>
<li id='fn-15113-4'>Free solo highlining, BASE jumping with no experience, BASE highlining because he saw a video of Dean Potter doing it, etc. <span class='footnotereverse'><a href='#fnref-15113-4'>&#8617;</a></span></li>
<li id='fn-15113-5'> After seeing the footage, it&#8217;s actually surprising that Lewis wasn&#8217;t killed during the filming of this piece <span class='footnotereverse'><a href='#fnref-15113-5'>&#8617;</a></span></li>
<li id='fn-15113-6'> See, it got me <span class='footnotereverse'><a href='#fnref-15113-6'>&#8617;</a></span></li>
<li id='fn-15113-7'> Like how last year&#8217;s show ended, I think, with Ueli Steck&#8217;s <em>Swiss Machine</em> piece <span class='footnotereverse'><a href='#fnref-15113-7'>&#8617;</a></span></li>
</ol>
</div>
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		<slash:comments>16</slash:comments>
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		<title>Reviews Of The Schengen Files, The Swiss Account, Better Than Chocolate &amp; Midwest Unknown</title>
		<link>http://climbingnarc.com/2011/08/reviews-of-the-schengen-files-the-swiss-account-better-than-chocolate-midwest-unknown/</link>
		<comments>http://climbingnarc.com/2011/08/reviews-of-the-schengen-files-the-swiss-account-better-than-chocolate-midwest-unknown/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Aug 2011 13:58:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Narc</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Bouldering]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Contests]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Reviews]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[PCI]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://climbingnarc.com/?p=14521</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A chance for you to win something for free and a few thoughts on The Schengen Files, The Swiss Account, Better Than Chocolate and Midwest Unknown just as soon as the cops are done swiping my credit card...]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 15px; width:240px;">

			<img src="http://i1.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/schengen_files.jpg?w=240" data-recalc-dims="1" />

			</p><p>A chance for you to win something for free and a few thoughts on <em>The Schengen Files</em>, <em>The Swiss Account</em>, <em>Better Than Chocolate</em> and <em>Midwest Unknown</em> just as soon as the cops are done swiping my credit card&#8230;</p>
<h3><em>The Schengen Files</em></h3>
<p><div class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 204px"><a title="The Schengen Files" href="http://i1.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/schengen_files.jpg" rel="lightbox[a]"><img class="  " style="margin-left: 5px; margin-right: 5px;" title="The Schengen Files" src="http://i1.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/schengen_files.jpg?resize=194%2C251" alt="The Schengen Files" data-recalc-dims="1" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The Schengen Files</p></div><em>The Schengen Files</em> is a short ~20 minute video that chronicles some of the hardest sends from the latter portion of Paul Robinson&#8217;s recent stint in France and Switzerland.  The movie starts with Robinson repeating a couple of the more well documented problems in Font and closes with rare repeats of lesser seen problems like <a href=" http://climbingnarc.com/2011/02/paul-robinson-interview-v15-repeat-in-fontainebleau/" target="_blank"><strong>Trip Hop</strong> (V15)</a> and <a href="http://climbingnarc.com/2011/03/paul-robinson-ends-road-trip-on-high-note/" target="_blank"><strong>Angama</strong> (V15)</a> in Font and <a title="The Story Of Two Worlds (V15) 2nd Ascent By Paul Robinson" href="http://climbingnarc.com/2011/03/the-story-of-two-worlds-v15-2nd-ascent-by-paul-robinson/" target="_blank"><strong>The Story Of Two Worlds</strong> (V15)</a>in Switzerland.</p>
<p>Almost entirely shot and edited by Robinson and girlfriend Alex Kahn, <em>The Schengen Files</em> is beautifully done, which belies the fact  that this is really their first major filmmaking effort.  If one of the only negatives people can come up with after seeing the movie is that they want to see more then, I think Paul and Alex are on the right track.</p>
<p>For under $7 this movie is a no brainer for any fan of bouldering videos.</p>
<h5>Website:</h5>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.hdclimbingvideos.com/products/schengen-files-paul-robinson-digital-download" target="_blank">The Schengen Files</a></li>
</ul>
<div>
<h5>Cost:</h5>
<ul>
<li>$6.99 &#8211; HD Download</li>
</ul>
<div>
<h5>Trailer:</h5>
</div>
<div><div class='embed-vimeo' style='text-align:center;'><iframe src='http://player.vimeo.com/video/22542769' width='540' height='304' frameborder='0'></iframe></div></div>
</div>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<h3><em>Better Than Chocolate</em></h3>
<p><div class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 204px"><a title="Better Than Chocolate" href="http://i0.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/btc.jpg" rel="lightbox[a]"><img class="  " style="margin-left: 5px; margin-right: 5px;" title="Better Than Chocolate" src="http://i0.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/btc.jpg?resize=194%2C264" alt="Better Than Chocolate" data-recalc-dims="1" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Better Than Chocolate</p></div>Like <em>The Schengen Files</em>, <em>Better Than Chocolate</em> is another example of the evolution of climbing media these past few years.  The movie is the first effort from Haroun Souirji who describes the movie as &#8220;a one man low budget project about bouldering in Switzerland. It&#8217;s edited, filmed, produced and advertised alone.&#8221;  Well, he could have fooled me because the movie has a nice polish to it and is tightly edited throughout.</p>
<p>The hour long movie is sort like if you would hit the random button on your MP3 player as it features a random assortment of climbers and problems from throughout Switzerland.  For the American audience many of the climbers will likely be unfamiliar, but there is footage of Paul Robinson sending <strong><a title="Americans On The Takedown In Switzerland" href="http://climbingnarc.com/2010/10/americans-on-the-take-down-in-switzerland/" target="_blank">Ill Trill</a></strong> and <a title="From Dirt Grows The Flowers Left Variant (V15) Repeated By Paul Robinson" href="http://climbingnarc.com/2010/12/from-dirt-grows-the-flowers-left-variant-v15-repeated-by-paul-robinson/" target="_blank">the variant to <strong>From Dirt Grows Flowers</strong></a> as well as appearances from familiar names like Chris Webb Parsons, Michele Caminati and a brief cameo by Fred Nicole.</p>
<p>Again, for fans of bouldering videos this is most certainly worth adding to your collection.</p>
<h5>Website:</h5>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.betterthanchocolate-movie.com/" target="_blank">Better Than Chocolate</a></li>
</ul>
<h5>Cost:</h5>
<ul>
<li>$14.99 &#8211; HD Download</li>
<li>$27.99 &#8211; DVD</li>
</ul>
<div>
<div>
<h5>Trailer:</h5>
</div>
<div><div class='embed-vimeo' style='text-align:center;'><iframe src='http://player.vimeo.com/video/20190704' width='540' height='304' frameborder='0'></iframe></div></div>
</div>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<h3><em>The Swiss Account</em></h3>
<p><div class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 204px"><a title="The Swiss Account" href="http://i0.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/swiss_account.jpg" rel="lightbox[a]"><img class="  " style="margin-left: 5px; margin-right: 5px;" title="The Swiss Account" src="http://i0.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/swiss_account.jpg?resize=194%2C291" alt="The Swiss Account" data-recalc-dims="1" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The Swiss Account</p></div><em>The Swiss Account</em> is the story of three Americans (<a href="http://jonglassberg.lt11.com/" target="_blank">Jon Glassberg</a>, Connor Griffith and <a href="http://carlotraversi.com/" target="_blank">Carlo Traversi</a>) visiting the boulders of Switzerland with very brief guest appearances  made by the likes of Paul Robinson, Adam Ondra, Alex Puccio and Dai Koyamada.  What ensues is pretty much what you would expect:  climbing, antics, beautiful scenery, more antics, <a href="http://joost.climbing.nl/?p=2086" target="_blank">controversy</a> and tons of amazing looking granite boulders.</p>
<p>Your enjoyment of the movie may vary depending on your tolerance levels for non-climbing shenanigans and techno music, but the quality of the footage is generally pretty good and the quality of the boulders is well established at this point.  I personally thought the sequence where Traversi gets pulled over for speeding and has his credit card swiped by police on the spot was a highlight of the movie, but I&#8217;m guessing he might beg to differ.</p>
<p>At almost an hour <em>The Swiss Account</em> would be worth dropping some money on to watch, but thanks to sponsors like <a href="http://www.revolutionclimbing.com/" target="_blank">Revolution Climbing</a>, <a href="http://lt11.com/2011/07/18/the-swiss-account-2/sportiva.com" target="_blank">La Sportiva</a>, <a href="http://fiveten.com/" target="_blank">Five Ten</a> and <a href="http://www.verveclimbing.com/" target="_blank">Verve Clothing</a> <strong>the movie is 100% free</strong>.  Seriously.</p>
<h5>Website:</h5>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://lt11.com/2011/07/18/the-swiss-account-2/" target="_blank">The Swiss Account</a></li>
</ul>
<h5>Cost:</h5>
<ul>
<li>&#8220;FREE whether you like it or not&#8221;</li>
</ul>
<div>
<div>
<h5>The Actual Movie!</h5>
</div>
<div><div class='embed-vimeo' style='text-align:center;'><iframe src='http://player.vimeo.com/video/26475347' width='540' height='304' frameborder='0'></iframe></div></div>
</div>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<h3><em>Midwest Unknown</em></h3>
<p><div class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 204px"><a title="Midwest Unknown" href="http://i0.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/rwfilmsmidwestunknown.jpg" rel="lightbox[a]"><img class="  " style="margin-left: 5px; margin-right: 5px;" title="Midwest Unknown" src="http://i0.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/rwfilmsmidwestunknown.jpg?resize=194%2C295" alt="Midwest Unknown" data-recalc-dims="1" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Midwest Unknown</p></div>This last video is not really on the same level as the previous three, but I wanted to share it since it has a local connection to boulders I&#8217;ve actually climbed on.  Filmed and edited by Ian Cotter-Brown, <em>Midwest Unknown</em> gives  a taste of the bouldering in Wisconsin and Minnesota at areas like Governor Dodge, Rattlesnake Mound, Taylors Falls and Devil&#8217;s Lake.  The quality of the footage and the editing are not of the highest quality, and it&#8217;s probably overpriced when compared to the other offerings out there right now, but if you&#8217;ve ever thought about bouldering in Wisconsin then this movie could be worth checking out.</p>
<h5>Website:</h5>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://rockwarriorfilms.com/Home.html" target="_blank">Midwest Unknown</a></li>
</ul>
<h5>Cost:</h5>
<ul>
<li>$10 &#8211; Download</li>
</ul>
<div>
<div>
<h5>Trailer:</h5>
</div>
<div><div class='embed-vimeo' style='text-align:center;'><iframe src='http://player.vimeo.com/video/26722415' width='540' height='304' frameborder='0'></iframe></div></div>
<div>
<h3>Free Stuff</h3>
</div>
</div>
<p>If you made it this far then congratulations.  Here&#8217;s how you win free stuff.  Simply leave a comment on this post and you&#8217;ll be entered for the chance to win a free download (including extras) of <em>Better Than Chocoloate.  </em>The winner will be picked one week from today (8/18/2011).  Good luck!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>86</slash:comments>
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		<title>New &amp; Updated Guidebooks For Joe&#8217;s Valley, Yosemite Big Walls, Joshua Tree, Summersville Lake, RRG &amp; The Obed</title>
		<link>http://climbingnarc.com/2011/06/new-updated-guidebooks-for-joes-valley-yosemite-big-walls-joshua-tree-summersville-lake-rrg-the-obed/</link>
		<comments>http://climbingnarc.com/2011/06/new-updated-guidebooks-for-joes-valley-yosemite-big-walls-joshua-tree-summersville-lake-rrg-the-obed/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Jun 2011 15:17:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Narc</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Reviews]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Guidebook]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://climbingnarc.com/?p=13794</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A look at a some new guidebooks that have come out recently for Joe's Valley bouldering, Yosemite big walls, Joshua Tree, the Red River Gorge, Summersville Lake and Gauley River and The Obed/Lilly Boulders]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 15px; width:240px;">

			<img src="http://i1.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/guideprev.jpg?w=240" data-recalc-dims="1" />

			</p><p>It&#8217;s no secret that reading guidebooks is one of my favorite pasttimes so imagine my excitement the past month or so as guidebook after guidebook showed up at my door (or on my iPhone as it were).  The guidebooks cover just about every climbing style imaginable (even aid!) from areas like Joe&#8217;s Valley in Utah, Yosemite Valley and Joshua Tree in California, The Obed in Tennesse, Summersville Lake and Gauley River in West Virginia and the Red River Gorge in Kentucky.</p>
<h3><em>An Insightful Guideo To Joe&#8217;s Valley Bouldering</em> &#8211; By Isaac Caldiero</h3>
<div class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 204px"><a href="http://joesvalleyguidebook.com/" target="_blank"><img class="  " style="margin-left: 5px; margin-right: 5px;" title="An Insightful Guide To Joe's Valley Bouldering" src="http://i1.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/joesvalleycover.jpg?resize=194%2C300" alt="An Insightful Guide To Joe's Valley Bouldering" data-recalc-dims="1" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">An Insightful Guide To Joe's Valley Bouldering</p></div>
<p>Joe&#8217;s Valley is a place I made plans to visit a couple of years back, but <a title="Be Careful What You (Sort Of) Wish For" href="http://climbingnarc.com/2009/03/be-careful-what-you-sort-of-wish-for/">my fragile knee put the brakes on that trip</a>.  The one thing I remember when planning that trip was the awkward nature of the guidebook situation which basically required that I piece together information from two separate books.  Not ideal, and with the pace of development in Joe&#8217;s picking up these past few years not a great way to stay informed.</p>
<p>Isaac Caldiero&#8217;s new self-published guidebook to the bouldering in Joe&#8217;s Valley should help alleviate this problem as it includes full color pictures, topos and descriptions for some 600 problems including many of the newer problems.  From the book&#8217;s website:</p>
<blockquote><p>That being said, the first edition of An Insightful Guide to Joe&#8217;s Valley Bouldering, is an explosive kick-start in capturing the many unknown, developed areas of Joe&#8217;s Valley, as well as all the pre-existing boulder problems. Bouldering in Joe&#8217;s Valley is all about quality not quantity. This compact, full color guide, captures over 600 quality boulder problems, with detailed beta and photos for every developed boulder.</p></blockquote>
<p>One thing that did jump out at me from paging through the book though is the level of beta offered in the individual problem descriptions.  For example, this is the description of the popular V10 Fingerhut:</p>
<blockquote><p>same start as #1.  Right hand goes first to incut crimp, cross left to hand to flat edge in the seam.  Grab sidepull out right and dyno left hand to jug.  Easy mantle.</p></blockquote>
<p>Most guidebooks simply direct you to starting hold and point you in the direction the problem ends.  When I asked Caldiero about this his basic thought was that onsighting doesn&#8217;t exist in bouldering and that most people like having beta to give things a good flash go.  The &#8220;insightful&#8221; guide is his attempt to do something a little different.  Personally, I appreciate all the beta I can get, but there may be others out there who prefer to figure things out on their own.  To each their own I suppose.</p>
<p>The only other critique I have about the book is that the index only includes 3 star problems which makes it harder to find some of the problems in the book if you don&#8217;t know where to look.  That said, the book is sure to be something you&#8217;ll want to check out if you&#8217;re going to Joe&#8217;s Valley.</p>
<h5>Website:</h5>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://joesvalleyguidebook.com/" target="_blank">An Insightful Guide To Joe&#8217;s Valley Bouldering</a></li>
</ul>
<h5>Cost:</h5>
<ul>
<li>$24.95</li>
</ul>
<h3><em>Yosemite Big Walls &#8211; 3rd Edition</em> &#8211; By Chris McNamara and Chris Van Leuven</h3>
<div class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 219px"><a href="http://www.supertopo.com/bigwalls/yosemite/bigwalls.html" target="_blank"><img class="  " style="margin-left: 5px; margin-right: 5px;" title="Yosemite Big Walls - 3rd Edition " src="http://i0.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/ybw3rdedition.jpg?resize=209%2C299" alt="Yosemite Big Walls - 3rd Edition " data-recalc-dims="1" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Yosemite Big Walls - 3rd Edition</p></div>
<p>I&#8217;ll be honest when I say that evaluating a book about aid and free climbing big walls like the 3rd Edition of SuperTopo&#8217;s <em>Yosemite Big Walls</em> is not something I&#8217;m overly qualified for.  In the interest of full disclosure, most of my trips to Yosemite have been spent <a title="Weekend Of Yosemite Bouldering" href="http://climbingnarc.com/2010/10/weekend-of-yosemite-bouldering/" target="_blank">bouldering</a> and eating <a href="http://www.itsiticecream.com/" target="_blank">It&#8217;s Its</a>.</p>
<p>That said, I have had occasion to use other SuperTopo route guides like the one for Tuolumne, so I can attest to the fact that <em>Yosemite Big Walls</em> continues the SuperTopo tradition of providing a high quality guide.  More specifically this 3rd edition includes 64 routes spread beautifully over 208 pages with updated beta for approaches, gear and overall routes strategy as well as my personal favorite expanded first ascent history for many of the routes.</p>
<h5>Website:</h5>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.supertopo.com/bigwalls/yosemite/bigwalls.html" target="_blank">Yosemite Big Walls &#8211; 3rd Edition</a></li>
</ul>
<h5>Cost:</h5>
<ul>
<li>Print Book &#8211; $29.95</li>
<li>eBook &#8211; $26.96</li>
<li>Print/eBook Combo &#8211; $37.87</li>
</ul>
<h3><em><strong>The Obed: A Climber’s Guide to the Wild and Scenic</strong></em><strong> &#8211; By <strong> Kelly Brown</strong></strong></h3>
<div class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 218px"><a href="http://www.greenergrasspublishing.com/guidebooks/the-obed-a-climbers-guide-to-the-wild-and-scenic/" target="_blank"><img class="    " style="margin-left: 5px; margin-right: 5px;" title="The Obed: A Climber’s Guide to the Wild and Scenic" src="http://i2.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/obed_guide.jpg?resize=208%2C300" alt="The Obed: A Climber’s Guide to the Wild and Scenic" data-recalc-dims="1" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The Obed: A Climber’s Guide to the Wild and Scenic</p></div>
<p>Building on the solid foundation of their guides to <a title="Review:  Bouldering Guide To Horse Pens 40 (HP40), Moss Rock &#038; Palisades Park" href="http://climbingnarc.com/2010/02/review-bouldering-guide-to-horse-pens-40-hp40-moss-rock-palisades-park/" target="_blank">HP40</a> and <a title="New Guidebooks To Stone Fort Bouldering, Yosemite Top Ropes &#038; Sport Climbs" href="http://climbingnarc.com/2010/09/new-guidebooks-to-stone-fort-bouldering-yosemite-top-ropes-sport-climbs/" target="_blank">LRC</a>, <a href="http://www.greenergrasspublishing.com" target="_blank">Greener Grass Publishing</a> is out with their first roped climbing guide with this guide to climbing in Tennesse&#8217;s Obed.  The book has everything you would expect of a modern climbing guide including a lot of useful photos of approach trails and route lines as well as a really nice variety of high quality action shots.  <a href="http://www.greenergrasspublishing.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/website-sample.pdf" target="_blank">Check out the sample pages</a> to get an idea what the book looks like.</p>
<p>As an added bonus, the book also includes topos for the bouldering at the Lilly Boulders.  The design and layout will look familiar to anyone who has used the HP40 or LRC guides and is a welcome upgrade from the old Dr. Topo guide.</p>
<h5>Website:</h5>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.greenergrasspublishing.com/guidebooks/the-obed-a-climbers-guide-to-the-wild-and-scenic/" target="_blank">The Obed: A Climber’s Guide to the Wild and Scenic</a></li>
</ul>
<h5>Cost:</h5>
<ul>
<li>$24.95 pre-sale &#8211; The book will be released in July</li>
</ul>
<h3><em>Red River Gorge Rock Climbs</em><strong> &#8211; By Ray Ellington</strong></h3>
<div class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 216px"><a href="http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/red-river-gorge-rock-climbs/id369077835?mt=8" target="_blank"><img class="   " style="margin-left: 5px; margin-right: 5px;" title="Red River Gorge Rock Climbs" src="http://i0.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/rrgappcover.jpg?resize=206%2C300" alt="Red River Gorge Rock Climbs" data-recalc-dims="1" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Red River Gorge Rock Climbs</p></div>
<p>It&#8217;s been about a year since the iOS edition of the Red River Gorge book <a href="http://climbingnarc.com/2010/04/free-preview-of-red-river-gorge-iphone-app-now-available/" target="_blank">came out</a>,and the app just recently saw another round of updates.  The latest updates include a few new routes, a few updated descriptions and a handful of behind the scenes changes to the actual app itself.  The latest changes allow the app to better support different types of climbs (i.e. aid, bouldering, toprope), allow for higher quality graphics and icons to be used and offer various performance improvements over previous versions.</p>
<p>These updates are great, but even without them this app has become an indispensable tool for me during trips to the Red.  I don&#8217;t even bother bringing my print book anymore.  If you can carry the full guidebook around in your pocket why bother carrying anything else?</p>
<h5>Website:</h5>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/red-river-gorge-rock-climbs/id369077835?mt=8" target="_blank">iOS App</a></li>
</ul>
<h5>Cost:</h5>
<ul>
<li>$29.95</li>
</ul>
<h3><em>Joshua Tree Rock Climbs</em> <strong>- By Robert Miramontes</strong></h3>
<div class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 224px"><a href="http://www.wolverinepublishing.com/guidebooks/climbing/Joshua_Tree" target="_blank"><img class="   " style="margin-left: 5px; margin-right: 5px;" title="Joshua Tree Rock Climbs" src="http://i2.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/jtreeguide.jpg?resize=214%2C300" alt="Joshua Tree Rock Climbs" data-recalc-dims="1" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Joshua Tree Rock Climbs</p></div>
<p>Covering more than 2,600 trad, sport and bouldering lines the new Joshua Tree Rock Climbs guidebook from Wolverine Publishing is a big book.  At least I imagine it would be if I couldn&#8217;t carry it around on my iPhone using the new iOS app.</p>
<p>Building on the success of the aforementioned Red River Gorge app, Wolverine has added the new Joshua Tree guide to their app line-up.  The new app really takes advantage of some of the udpates I mentioned about the RRG app, namely the way the topo images scale and display the route bubbles and lines.  It&#8217;s pretty slick really.</p>
<p>The print version, which you can see a sample of <a href="http://www.wolverinepublishing.com/look/Joshua_Tree_sample.pdf" target="_blank">here</a>, should look familiar to anyone who has used other Wolverine guidebooks while those who are more inclined to use the mobile option can download a free &#8220;lite&#8221; version of the guidebook app by clicking <a href="http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/joshua-tree-rock-climbs-lite/id427437190?mt=8" target="_blank">here</a>.</p>
<h5>Website:</h5>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.wolverinepublishing.com/guidebooks/climbing/Joshua_Tree" target="_blank">Paper Book</a></li>
<li><a href="http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/joshua-tree-rock-climbs/id431553927?mt=8" target="_blank">Full iOS App</a></li>
<li><a href="http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/joshua-tree-rock-climbs-lite/id427437190?mt=8" target="_blank">Lite iOS App</a></li>
</ul>
<h5>Cost:</h5>
<ul>
<li>Print Book &#8211; $40.00 ($24.94 with purchase of iPhone App)</li>
<li>iOS App &#8211; $32.99</li>
</ul>
<p><span style="font-size: 15px; font-weight: bold;"><em>Summersville Lake &#038; Gauley River Rock Climbs</em> &#8211; By Mike Williams</span></p>
<div class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 216px"><a href="http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/summersville-lake-gauley-river/id435257470?mt=8" target="_blank"><img class="   " style="margin-left: 5px; margin-right: 5px;" title="Summersville Lake &#038; Gauley River Rock Climbs" src="http://i2.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/summersvilleguidecover.jpg?resize=206%2C300" alt="Summersville Lake &#038; Gauley River Rock Climbs" data-recalc-dims="1" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Summersville Lake &#038; Gauley River Rock Climbs</p></div>
<p>There&#8217;s not much to say about the iOS app for Summersville Lake &#038; Gauley River that hasn&#8217;t already been said about the two previous guidebook apps.  At 343 climbs this one doesn&#8217;t feature nearly as many climbs as are in the Red or J-Tree, but its price reflects that fact.  I&#8217;d definitely put this thing to use if I were heading out to Summersville Lake, just make sure you take your phone out of your pocket before you jump in the water to de-pump&#8230;</p>
<h5>Website:</h5>
<ul>
<li><a href=" http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/summersville-lake-gauley-river/id435257470?mt=8" target="_blank">iOS App</a></li>
</ul>
<h5>Cost:</h5>
<ul>
<li>iOS App &#8211; $7.99</li>
</ul>
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		<title>Review:  Petzl GriGri 2</title>
		<link>http://climbingnarc.com/2011/05/review-petzl-gri-gri-2-belay-device/</link>
		<comments>http://climbingnarc.com/2011/05/review-petzl-gri-gri-2-belay-device/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 10 May 2011 13:49:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Narc</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Reviews]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Petzl]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Petzl GriGri 2]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://climbingnarc.com/?p=13397</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A look at the new GriGri 2 from Petzl]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 15px; width:240px;">

			<img src="http://i0.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/grigri2_01-18_prev.jpg?w=240" data-recalc-dims="1" />

			</p><p>For the past couple of months I&#8217;ve been trying out the new <a href="http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/belay-devices-0/grigri" target="_blank">GriGri 2</a> which Petzl was kind enough to send me, putting it through its paces both at the gym and at the crag.  While one could go on it great detail about the device the bottom line is this:  if you currently own the original GriGri you&#8217;ll love the GriGri 2 and if you&#8217;ve never owned a GriGri&#8230;what are you waiting for??  Not convinced?  Read on for a few thoughts on the device.</p>
<p>There are <a href="http://petzl.com/us/outdoor/news/products-news-1/2011/01/24/grigri-2-new-petzl-belay-device-assisted-braking" target="_blank">three main areas of difference</a> between the original GriGri and the GriGri 2:  rope diameter compatibility, reduced size and weight, and a new &#8220;progressive descent control system&#8221;.</p>
<p>The GriGri 2 is compatible with ropes anywhere in the 8.9mm to 11mm range which is a welcome, and in some sense overdue, change.  In practice I found that ropes of most sizes fed very fluidly through the device and handling was greatly improved.  Combined with the lighter weight and smaller footprint, I found it <strong>much</strong> easier to use Petzl&#8217;s new (from 2008) <a rel="mediabox" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSVchbjVKLE" target="_blank">recommended lead belay technique</a>.  For me this is one of the biggest selling points of the GriGri 2 as I found implementing this technique with my old GriGri to be difficult at best.  The only drawback to the GriGri 2&#8242;s reduced size is that the release handle is somewhat uncomfortable in that it&#8217;s both smaller and sharper around the edges than the original GriGri which takes some getting used to.</p>
<p>The third main difference, the &#8220;progressive descent control system&#8221;, was somewhat less clear of an improvement.  In theory it&#8217;s supposed to offer a smoother lower, but in practice I can&#8217;t say I noticed much difference between either version of the GriGri.  They both are good but not great.  Apparently this system should help prevent people from pulling open the release handle and losing control of the lower which makes sense, it&#8217;s just not something I noticed when using the device.</p>
<p>Despite a couple of minor drawbacks, the fact that the GriGri 2 is much lighter, works with the size ropes most people are using and feeds out slack better make it a clear winner to me.  Time will tell how well it does durability-wise, but for now it&#8217;s hard not to recommend it.</p>
<p>The big question for many is whether or not it&#8217;s worth it to spend the $95 to upgrade from their original GriGri to the GriGri 2.  I think that if you do a lot of climbing on ropes under 10mm or you can&#8217;t stand to not have the latest gadget then by all means go for it.  If you mainly climb on fat ropes in the gym then you&#8217;re probably not going to notice that much of a difference, so I&#8217;d just wait until your original GriGri wears out.</p>
<p>While they were hard to come by shortly after launch it looks like most retailers have the GriGri 2 in stock, <a href="http://bit.ly/l9AWVR" target="_blank">including REI</a>.  What better way to spend your dividend??</p>
<p>Here&#8217;s a video Petzl put together with some of their sponsored athletes showing off with the GriGri 2 and talking about how they use it.</p>
<span class='embed-youtube' style='text-align:center; display: block;'><iframe class='youtube-player' type='text/html' width='540' height='334' src='http://www.youtube.com/embed/i6EzpBaKYTs?version=3&#038;rel=1&#038;fs=1&#038;showsearch=0&#038;showinfo=1&#038;iv_load_policy=1&#038;hd=1&#038;wmode=transparent' frameborder='0'></iframe></span>
<p>And since I just got a new camera I took some photos comparing GriGris new and old&#8230;</p>

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		<title>Reach</title>
		<link>http://climbingnarc.com/2011/02/reach/</link>
		<comments>http://climbingnarc.com/2011/02/reach/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Feb 2011 15:10:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Narc</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Reviews]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[PCI]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Reach]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://climbingnarc.com/?p=12059</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Thoughts on the new climbing film Reach from Rogue State Films &#038; Nathan Bancroft]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 15px; width:240px;">

			<img src="http://i1.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/reach_trailer.png?w=240" data-recalc-dims="1" />

			</p><p>Over the past week I&#8217;ve been slowly working my way through a slew of new climbing movie releases being offered for download at <a href="http://www.iclimb.com/" target="_blank">iCLIMB.com</a>.  I&#8217;ve watched portions of <em><a href="http://www.iclimb.com/products/Psyche-2-Download.html" target="_blank">Psyche 2</a> </em>and <em><a href="http://www.iclimb.com/products/The-Fanatic-Search-2-%252d-A-Girl-Thing-Download.html" target="_blank">The Fanatic Search 2</a></em> and may have thoughts on those once I finish, but today I wanted to say a few things about the highly anticipated movie from Nathan Bancroft&#8217;s Rogue State Films, <em>Reach</em>.</p>
<p><em>Reach</em> follows Zach Lerner through a few problems near Flagstaff, AZ, Jon Cardwell and Felipe Camargo as they sample the boulders of Brazil, and Cardwell, Dave Graham and Daniel Woods as they do their thing at Lincoln Lake and RMNP.  While the movie, at its core, is ostensibly a &#8220;bouldering flick&#8221;, it&#8217;s clear that Bancroft was aiming to make something different with <em>Reach</em>.  In a <a href="http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/nathan-bancroft-film-visionary" target="_blank">recent interview with DPM</a> he had this to say about the movie&#8217;s concept:</p>
<blockquote><p>The goal from the beginning with <em>Reach</em> was to show climbing in a unique way. I have been heavily influenced by snowboarding and skating films, so I tried to take that aesthetic and evolve it into something that would work with climbing. I have been bored with a lot of the recent climbing releases and as a group we felt that there was always something missing, something that initially attracted all of us to the sport that wasn’t being conveyed in any climbing films. My goal was to produce something that excited my friends and me and that we could show to non-climbers in order for them to understand the sport better.</p></blockquote>
<p>I could try to describe the style of the movie, but in this case the trailers are a great indicator of what the end product is like since the movie and the trailer are edited in basically the same style.  Like the trailers, the end product is a continuous mix of montages and climbing shots edited to flow with the music with infrequent but generally interesting comments from the climbers themselves.  In some sense the movie is literally a 45 minute version of either one of the trailers, so if you like what you see in the trailers you&#8217;ll probably enjoy the whole thing.</p>
<p><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/16216733" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe></p>
<p><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/18481594" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe></p>
<p>Personally I enjoyed <em>Reach</em> quite a bit.  The combination of beautiful filming of both the climbing and the non-climbing and precise editing to match the music made the movie fly by (in a good way).  At times it did seem as though some of the problems in the Brazil segment in particular were a bit over-edited showing several angles for each move, but overall the style was well executed in my opinion.  The movie doesn&#8217;t lack for hard climbing either with over 20 V13+ boulder problems, and the flurry of hard climbs sent by Dave Graham at the end was a real treat for me personally since he has long been my favorite climber.  If you&#8217;re into bouldering you&#8217;ll probably like this movie.</p>
<p><em>Reach </em>is available for <a href="http://www.iclimb.com/products/Reach-Download.html" target="_blank">download at iCLIMB for $14.99</a> or you can <a href="http://www.bouldering.com/products/Reach-DVD.html" target="_blank">get it on DVD from Bouldering.com for $29.95</a>.  If you&#8217;ve checked it out, let me know your thoughts on the movie in the comments.</p>
<p><em>In the interest of full disclosure, this movie was provided free of charge from iCLIMB.com.  This in no way affected my views on the movie since I would have been happy paying for it myself&#8230;</em></p>
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		<title>New Moe&#8217;s Valley Bouldering Guidebook</title>
		<link>http://climbingnarc.com/2011/02/new-moes-valley-bouldering-guidebook/</link>
		<comments>http://climbingnarc.com/2011/02/new-moes-valley-bouldering-guidebook/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 22 Feb 2011 14:25:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Narc</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Bouldering]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Reviews]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Guidebook]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://climbingnarc.com/?p=11736</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A quick look at the new Moe's Valley bouldering guidebook and a new production company in the desert southwest]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 15px; width:240px;">

			<img src="http://i0.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/moesvalleyguide_prev.jpg?w=240" data-recalc-dims="1" />

			</p><p>It&#8217;s no secret that I love looking through guidebooks so I was psyched to get the new <a href="http://markhorclimbing.com/products-page/climbing2/climbing-guidebooks/moes-valley-bouldering-guide/" target="_blank">Moe&#8217;s Valley Bouldering Guide</a> by Tyler Webb and Seth Giles in the mail the other week.  Moe&#8217;s Valley is a sandstone bouldering area outside St. George, UT that has seen increased attention in the past few years after visits from the likes of Dave Graham and Daniel Woods.</p>
<p>I have never been to Moe&#8217;s Valley personally, and the reports I&#8217;ve read on the quality of the area vary somewhat depending on <a href="http://jessebonin.blogspot.com/2011/02/i-just-got-back-from-my-trip-to-moes.html" target="_blank">who</a> you <a href="http://climbidaho.com/?p=1572" target="_blank">ask</a>.  That said, this guidebook should do a good job of helping you find your way around.  While not of the same physical or overall quality as the <a href="http://climbingnarc.com/2010/12/review-southern-nevada-bouldering-guidebook/" target="_blank">Red Rocks bouldering guide</a> or the <a href="http://climbingnarc.com/2010/09/new-guidebooks-to-stone-fort-bouldering-yosemite-top-ropes-sport-climbs/" target="_blank">Stone Fort bouldering guide</a>, the book seems to do a nice job of providing area beta, clear topos of the problems, and a handful of nice action photos to help get you psyched.</p>
<p>The book is available for order on <a href="http://markhorclimbing.com/products-page/climbing2/climbing-guidebooks/moes-valley-bouldering-guide/" target="_blank">Markhor Climbing website for $20</a> with the ability to get a 10% discount if you become a fan of theirs on Facebook.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;">Sample page from the Moe&#8217;s Valley Bouldering guidebook</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a rel="lightbox" href="http://i0.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/moes_valley_topo.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-11738 aligncenter" title="moes_valley_topo" src="http://i0.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/moes_valley_topo.jpg?resize=540%2C597" alt="" data-recalc-dims="1" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Somewhat related to this new guidebook is a new production company that opened up shop in the area called <a href="http://www.3dmediawatch.com/" target="_blank">3 Deserts Media</a>.  They produced <a href="http://climbingnarc.com/videos/a-day-in-the-hurricave-with-joe-kinder/" target="_blank">this video of Joe Kinder climbing in southern Utah&#8217;s Hurricave</a>, and there are several other nice videos from the desert southwest on their website.  Check it out <a href="http://www.3dmediawatch.com/" target="_blank">here</a>.</p>
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