In June 2006, Sonnie Trotter made the first free ascent of Cobra Crack (5.14) in Sqamish, BC placing all the gear on lead. While it may or may not be the hardest trad climb in the world, it certainly has to involve the most painful and difficult finger locks one can imagine.

Video of Sonnie Trotter Climbing Cobra Crack 5.14

Incubator (V13) Video
Last week I had some news on Daniel Woods and Jon Cardwell quickly making the 2nd and 3rd ascents of Markus Schwaiger’s Incubator (V13) at Zillertal, Austria. Now you can see the video at MomentumVM. You can read a bit more about Markus’s FA of this Jerry Moffat project at PlanetMountain.

Dave Graham in Small Amazing Things
Probably one of my favorite climbing clips ever featuring rather hilarious banter as well as Dave Graham and Isaac Caldiero pulling down in Bishop, CA.

Andrada Climbs 5.15b Link-Up
Dani Andrada has added a V14 (or v9, see below) sit start to his 5.15a extended version of the 5.14d link-up Ali Hulk. While the 5.14d version has been repeated, the 5.15a extended version has seen no repeats while the V14 sit start “is something not to f*** with, very hard” according to Dave Graham. [...]

Falling Climber Videos
Check out Splitter Choss for a compilation of videos of climbers taking huge whips at places like the Red River Gorge, KY and the Grampians, Australia. Inexplicably there is also video of someone holding onto a tree and then taking a nasty fall on natural gear. How do you fall off holding a tree??
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Dave Graham Realization (5.15a) Video
Not quite Big Up quality but it is footage nonetheless of Dave Graham’s recent repeat of Chris Sharma’s Realization in Ceuse, France.

3 New Moonclimbing Videos
3 new videos have been added over at Moonclimbing.com. They include: Ty Landman climbing Aslan (V14) and The Lockness Monster (V13) as well as Isaac Calidero climbing Secret Splendour (V12) all at RMNP. Click here to check them out.
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Narc: There's nothing regular about James Litz...
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JMB: I suspect James Litz is the all-time leader in FRJ...
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colin: FRJA = first real job ascent. well done....
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Derek Jf: First trip to rumney nh, first time sport climbing...
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Andrew: awesome video!...
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PocketPumper: I was psyched to hear some actual climbing tips st...
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PJ: First problem is the title of the video, complete ...
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2012 Dominion River Rock Women’s Climbing Highlights
May 22, 2012
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Regular Dude Climbs Just Do It (5.14c)
May 22, 2012
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Climb Like Chris Sharma: His Tips, Part 1
May 21, 2012
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What Did You Do This Weekend?
May 21, 2012
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Two 5.14d FA’s By Pirmin Bertle
May 21, 2012
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Ethan Pringle On Jumbo Love
May 18, 2012
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Campus Training With Flannery Shay-Nemirow
May 18, 2012
News & Notes
What Did You Do This Weekend?
Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold spent Saturday romping up big walls in Yosemite. The pair free climbed Freerider on El Cap (6:45 climbing), the South Face of Mt. Watkins (2:40 climbing) and the Regular Northwest Face on Half Dome (5 climbing) in just over 21 hours. More at Climbing.com. So…how was your weekend??
Ethan Pringle On Jumbo Love
Ethan Pringle is back at Mt. Clark, home to that one route first done by that one guy:
Projecting a route like this requires all of your attention, and having to devote all of your attention to a route like this can get really tiring really fast. At some point, you just want to get it over with. Of course, afterward you feel a mix of relief and loss. Relief that you’re done and the epic is over, and loss that this magnificent line doesn’t require your presence anymore. But for me, I think I’ll have to take a nice long break from serious route projects for a little while after this. Like Randy Levitt said, “It’s like a limestone El Cap.” Obviously, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but it does sort of convey the amount of work required to complete a project of this caliber.
Pringle is no stranger to Jumbo Love, having tried it even before its FA back in 2008. You can see some footage of those attempts here.
When In Doubt Pack It Out
I don’t know about you, but I always try my best to climb close to an actual bathroom. In case you don’t, the Access Fund has a nice refresher on what to do when nature calls.





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