ClimbingNarc.com » Videos

Climbing Video: Jacinda Hunter On Fantasy Island (5.14b)

Narc — Wed, 28 Jul 2010 19:00:54 +0000

Check out this nice piece put together by Mike Call that highlights Jacinda Hunter on a route she recently did the FA of in American Fork Canyon, UT, called Fantasy Island (5.14b):

Jacinda Hunter: Driving Force from Prana Living on Vimeo.

I’m personally very impressed anytime someone with a job and a family is able to push their limits like Hunter does (regardless of whether or not it happens to be 5.14) but her accomplishments seem especially impressive. Nice work!

Climbing Video: Jacinda Hunter On Fantasy Island (5.14b) from ClimbingNarc.com

Try Harder Trailer

Narc — Wed, 28 Jul 2010 12:44:13 +0000

“Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.”

That’s how Noah Kaufman ends every post on his blog where he chronicles the efforts of climbers, well, trying hard. While Kaufman’s blog does a nice job of capturing the try hard mindset it really comes through much better in videos. You may remember Kaufman from his cameo in Progression where he enthusiastically encouraged Daniel Woods and Paul Robinson as they worked on a new boulder problem in Rocklands, South Africa. The guy wants you to try really hard.

It’s along this vein of trying hard and motivating others to do the same that Kaufman will be releasing the movie Try Harder “sometime in 2011″:

Try Harder is a documentary film that examines the philosophy of effort. That being said, there is a strong emphasis on incredible human feats and comedy. This film is by the athletes, for the athletes and the industry.

That last sentence is worth noting as Kaufman will be returning any proceeds from the movie to the”under-funded athletes” who appear in it. The announcement of the movie even seeks sponsorships/donations to help contribute to that cause. A noble goal to be sure although it seems hard to believe that 99% of climbing movie viewers feel much sympathy for the financial plight of professional climbers. Never hurts to ask though, right?

Check out the trailer to see who will be giving their all in Try Harder:

Try Harder Trailer from ClimbingNarc.com

Weekend Videos: Angie Payne & Alex Puccio Sending V12

Narc — Fri, 23 Jul 2010 19:07:00 +0000

A couple nice videos of 2 of America’s strongest female climbers posted over on Deadpoint Magazine to help get you psyched for your weekend.

Most recent is the video by John Dickey of Angie Payne on her FFA of No More Greener Grasses (V12) at Mt. Evans and the other features Alex Puccio on her repeat of Diaphanous Sea (V12) in Hueco Tanks.

Enjoy!

Weekend Videos: Angie Payne & Alex Puccio Sending V12 from ClimbingNarc.com

Climbing Video: Bret Johnston Sending Dr. Evil (5.14a)

Narc — Fri, 23 Jul 2010 11:14:40 +0000

Bret Johnston Sending Dr. Evil (5.14a) Climbing Video: Bret Johnston Sending Dr. Evil (5.14a) from ClimbingNarc.com Related posts:Dave Graham Climbing Necessary Evil (5.14c) Climbing Video: Jonathan Siegrist Sending Lucifer (5.14c) Climbing Video: Joel Zerr Sending The Ashtray Climbing Video: Jesse Bonin Sending Party Animal (V13) Climbing Video: Mike Personick Sending Down In Flames (V12) In [...]

Climbing Video: Bret Johnston Sending Dr. Evil (5.14a) from ClimbingNarc.com

UBC Pro Tour Trailer

Narc — Wed, 21 Jul 2010 11:19:52 +0000

UBC Pro Tour Trailer UBC Pro Tour Trailer from ClimbingNarc.com Related posts:2009 Reel Rock Film Tour Trailer Stone Alliance Film Tour Trailer Perfecto Trailer Trailer: Sick – Climbing In New England King Lines Trailer Pure Trailer 2010 UBC Pro Tour Earth Treks Roc Comp Highlight Videos Paul Robinson Guest Blogs At The Five Ten On [...]

UBC Pro Tour Trailer from ClimbingNarc.com

Climbing Video: Alex Puccio Sends The Centaur (V12)

Narc — Mon, 19 Jul 2010 13:37:49 +0000

Alex Puccio Sends The Centaur (V12) Climbing Video: Alex Puccio Sends The Centaur (V12) from ClimbingNarc.com Related posts:Climbing Video: Alex Puccio Sending Trice (V12) Climbing Video: Garrett Gregor, Kyle Owen, Carlo Traversi & Alex Puccio Bouldering In Yosemite & Hueco Tanks Another V12 For Alex Puccio Weekend Videos: Angie Payne & Alex Puccio Sending V12 [...]

Climbing Video: Alex Puccio Sends The Centaur (V12) from ClimbingNarc.com

Climbing Video: Ladies of Lurking Fear

Narc — Tue, 29 Jun 2010 17:44:15 +0000

Ladies of Lurking Fear Climbing Video: Ladies of Lurking Fear from ClimbingNarc.com Related posts:Climbing Video: Steph Davis Climbing The Salathe Wall On El Capitan Climbing Video: Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva Climbing In Western North America Climbing Video: Climbing The Pacific Ocean Wall On El Cap w/Dave Hahn, Jimmy Chin, Conrad Anker and Ivo Ninov [...]

Climbing Video: Ladies of Lurking Fear from ClimbingNarc.com

Climbing Video: Brion Voges Climbing Well In RMNP

Narc — Wed, 23 Jun 2010 11:24:22 +0000

Brion Voges Climbing Well In RMNP Climbing Video: Brion Voges Climbing Well In RMNP from ClimbingNarc.com Related posts:2 V13s For Brion Voges In Hueco Tanks Climbing Video: Tommy Caldwell Bouldering In RMNP, Training For El Cap Jimmy Webb Dishes On Bouldering In The Southeast 35 RMNP Bouldering Videos To Increase Psych For Upcoming Park Season [...]

Climbing Video: Brion Voges Climbing Well In RMNP from ClimbingNarc.com

News & Notes – 6/22/2010

Narc — Tue, 22 Jun 2010 11:55:09 +0000

News…

Joe Kinder did the FA of 5.14bs Less Than Zero and Sodom and Gamorrah at an undisclosed location in UT. He also flashed Cross Town (5.13d).
Kairn. com reports that 12-year old Shawn Raboutou, son of well-known climbers Robyn Erbesfield and Didier Raboutou, did his first 5.14a Attention on vous regarde in St. Antonin, France.
Nearing the end of his latest road trip, Jonathan Siegrist ticked off Problem Child (5.14c) at Deep Creek, WA.
Anna Stohr and Adam Ondra won the most recent Bouldering World Cup held in Moscow. American Alex Johnson finished 13th and she is 4th in the overall standings after 4 events.
Jimmy Webb‘s nice summer continued over the past few weeks according to his 8a scorecard which shows repeats in RMNP of the super long Aslan (V14, 5th ascent?) and the classic testpiece The Automator (V13). Here’s some “old” video of Ty Landman on the 2nd ascent of Aslan:

On the heels of his victory at the Vail World Cup, Daniel Woods made a quick trip to Brazil where he banked $2,500 for winning a comp and repeated a couple of the area v13s. (UKClimbing)
Dave Wetmore realized a long time goal last week when he finally clipped the chains on Parallel Universe (5.14a) in Rumney, NH:

Parallel Universe (5.14a): Dave Wetmore (LT11) from David Wetmore on Vimeo.

…And Notes

Even the idea of a climbing gym is technologically incredibly easy. If I had, as a teenager, a little wall like the one in my own house that I have now, I could well have been climbing 5.14 in 1980, not 5.11. But “real” climbing meant outside on real rock so that climbers were constrained by rock-type, weather, dark of night, and available free time.

Check out 27crags.com, a new sort of hyrbid site that hopes to combine the aspects of popular sites like Mountainproject, Rockclimbing.com and blogs into one destination. Their online topo editor definitely looks cool.

I’ve been a bit busy lately and rather out of the loop. What else is going on? Any other cool stories out there?

News & Notes – 6/22/2010 from ClimbingNarc.com

Climbing Video: Nellie Milfeld Attempting “Arms Bazzar” (5.12a R)

Narc — Wed, 16 Jun 2010 09:26:31 +0000

Nellie Milfeld Attempting “Arms Bazzar” (5.12a R) Climbing Video: Nellie Milfeld Attempting “Arms Bazzar” (5.12a R) from ClimbingNarc.com Related posts:Popular Posts & Video For June 2010 Climbing Videos: Cedar Wright’s Vertical Carnival Climbing Video: Steph Davis Climbing The Salathe Wall On El Capitan Climbing Video: Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva Climbing In Western North America [...]

Climbing Video: Nellie Milfeld Attempting “Arms Bazzar” (5.12a R) from ClimbingNarc.com

1 More Video From The 2010 Vail Bouldering World Cup

Narc — Tue, 15 Jun 2010 11:50:42 +0000

Via B3Bouldering is one last video from the Bouldering World Cup at the 2010 Teva Mountain Games. This one comes from Udo Neumann and it shows highlights from all 3 rounds of the comp:

For a nice write-up about the comp from the perspective of the route setters check out this piece by Chris Danielson who was American Head Setter for the comp.

1 More Video From The 2010 Vail Bouldering World Cup from ClimbingNarc.com

Free-Basing Meets Deep Water Soloing?

Narc — Mon, 14 Jun 2010 18:37:50 +0000

Free-Basing Meets Deep Water Soloing? Free-Basing Meets Deep Water Soloing? from ClimbingNarc.com Related posts:Climbing Video: Alex Honnold Free Soloing Half Dome Popular Posts & Video For June 2010 Climbing Video: Sonnier Trotter Soloing Bizmark (5.13b) Dave MacLeod Free Solos 5.14b in Spain Alex Honnold News: Fast Free Ascents & Free Solos In Yosemite Eiffel Tower [...]

Free-Basing Meets Deep Water Soloing? from ClimbingNarc.com

Suspension Of Disbelief Video At DPM

Narc — Mon, 14 Jun 2010 13:22:36 +0000

DPM has another nice video up, this one featuring Carlo Traversi on his recent repeat of Suspension Of Disbelief (V13) in Eldorado Canyon, CO.

Suspension Of Disbelief Video At DPM from ClimbingNarc.com

Alpine Bouldering Season 2010

Narc — Fri, 11 Jun 2010 12:59:22 +0000

The season for high-end sending in Colorado’s alpine bouldering areas started with a bang with RMNP’s Jade already getting repeated twice and the 2010 season has really barely begun. What else will the summer of ’10 bring?

Will there be an onslaught of hard FAs reminiscent of the rampage that Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson, Ty Landman and crew went on in the summer of 2007, or will it be the summer of the woman like 2008 seemed to be with Alex Puccio, Alex Johnson and Angie Payne all pulling down hard, or maybe it will be quieter like the summer of 2009 that had a few highlights but lacked the excitement of prior years? My vote is for another summer of the woman, but only time will tell.

There was a time when Mrs. Narc and I had planned on climbing in the Park this summer during a trip out west but those plans have been scrapped due to the fact that I haven’t bouldered in going on 4 months because of a finger injury that continues to bother me. I managed to survive a relatively prolific (for me) spring sport climbing season without aggravating the finger any much further, and I hope to build on that mild success when we visit Ten Sleep, WY in a few weeks to clip some more bolts. Despite my affinity for bouldering it’s been really nice to change things up and enjoy the different challenge presented by sport climbing. I know my finger joints have certainly appreciated the change of pace as well.

So, it will be with a certain fondness that I follow the goings on in the alpine realm of Colorado’s high country this summer. Not sure when we’ll make it back out there, but until we do quality videos like this one from Jon Glassberg will surely keep us psyched for that return trip:

Rocky Mountain National Park • Hallett Boulder • Jon Glassberg & Kevin Jorgeson from Jon Glassberg on Vimeo.

A day spent bouldering at the Hallett Boulder in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. Jon Glassberg sending Stranger in a Strange Land (V12) and Kevin Jorgeson making the first boulder ascent of a Matt Segal sport route called The End of the Beginning (5.13).

Alpine Bouldering Season 2010 from ClimbingNarc.com

Nice Yosemite Bouldering Video At DPM

Narc — Thu, 10 Jun 2010 19:27:59 +0000

DPM has a really nice video up right now from Walker Emerson that features a handful of lesser-known climbers repeating some of the “new school” boulder problems that have been put up in Yosemite Valley in recent years.

Nice Yosemite Bouldering Video At DPM from ClimbingNarc.com

Climbing Video: Bouldering In La Pedriza, Spain

Narc — Thu, 10 Jun 2010 13:38:33 +0000

Bouldering In La Pedriza, Spain Climbing Video: Bouldering In La Pedriza, Spain from ClimbingNarc.com Related posts:Climbing Video: 25 Minutes of Bouldering in Albarracin, Spain Climbing Video: New York Bouldering Climbing Video: V14 Bouldering In Brazil Climbing Video: Tramway Bouldering Climbing Video: Bouldering At The Happy’s Climbing Video: Emi Moosburger Bouldering In Rocklands, SA Climbing Video: [...]

Climbing Video: Bouldering In La Pedriza, Spain from ClimbingNarc.com

Climbing Video: Mike Foley Sending Livin’ Astroglide (5.14c) In Rumney

Narc — Wed, 09 Jun 2010 13:53:29 +0000

I mentioned the other week that Mike Foley had repeated Livin’ Astroglide (hard 5.14c) at Rumney’s Waimea wall. The route links together two tough Dave Graham routes by climbing the majority of Livin’ Astro (easy 5.14c) and then traversing left into the crux of China Beach (5.14b).

Courtesty of Dave Wetmore, here is video of Foley climbing the rig:

Livin’ AstroGlide (5.14c/d) from David Wetmore on Vimeo.

Climbing Video: Mike Foley Sending Livin’ Astroglide (5.14c) In Rumney from ClimbingNarc.com

What Adam Ondra Did Instead Of The Vail World Cup

Narc — Tue, 08 Jun 2010 11:30:50 +0000

Viewers of the recent World Cup in Vail were probably wondering where Czech superstar Adam Ondra was if he wasn’t in Vail competing. Turns out he spent the week in Switzerland climbing 3 V14s including the FA of a project on the Riverbed boulder in Magic Wood. All told, according to his 8a scorecard, he completed 15 problems V10 or harder. Ho hum, just another week in the life of Adam Ondra I suppose…

In other Adam Ondra news, here is a brief trailer for an upcoming movie about Ondra that will feature him climbing some of the world’s hardest routes and boulders. Looks amazing. Check out this website for more info on the movie.

ADAM ONDRA – a few shots from the movie from BERNARTWOOD on Vimeo.

What Adam Ondra Did Instead Of The Vail World Cup from ClimbingNarc.com

2010 Vail Bouldering World Cup Media & Wrap-Up

Narc — Mon, 07 Jun 2010 12:39:52 +0000

So, I don’t know if you heard or not but there was a bouldering competition in Vail this weekend that was kind of a big deal. In case you missed it, here are the posts I had over the weekend about the Bouldering World Cup at the 2010 Teva Mountain Games:

Jon Glassberg put together a nice set of highlight videos from Finals that show pretty much every meaningful attempt on all the problems. Check ‘em out:

Bouldering World Cup 2010 • Vail, Colorado • Mens Finals from Jon Glassberg on Vimeo.

Bouldering World Cup 2010 • Vail, Colorado • Womens Finals from Jon Glassberg on Vimeo.

Here are some other medias floating around the interwebs:

Very professional looking (but not as complete as the ones shown above) highlight reels of the Men and the Women from DPM
Ben Fullteron has some images up from the Qualifying rounds with more photos from Semi-finals and Finals to come
Article about the comp in the Vail Daily News
Finals post at DPM with several nice pictures from Jackie Hueftle
Brief Daniel Woods interview with 8a.nu
Pictures of the top falls of the weekend
More great photos from Ben Fullerton
Petzl write-up with some really nice pictures

Feel free to share others sites with media that you come across in the comments and I’ll add them to the post.

2010 Vail Bouldering World Cup Media & Wrap-Up from ClimbingNarc.com

Climbing Video: Enzo Oddo Climbing GoGo (5.14b)

Narc — Thu, 03 Jun 2010 13:57:38 +0000

Enzo Oddo Climbing GoGo (5.14b) Climbing Video: Enzo Oddo Climbing GoGo (5.14b) from ClimbingNarc.com Related posts:Climbing Video: 14 year old Enzo Oddo Climbing Chocholocco (5.14d) Popular Posts & Video For June 2010 One Less Excuse Climbing Video: Toni Lamprecht Sport Climbing In The Gorge du Verdon Climbing Video: Liuyong Bang Sport Climbing In Yangshuo, China [...]

Climbing Video: Enzo Oddo Climbing GoGo (5.14b) from ClimbingNarc.com

Dean Potter: Falling To Fly

Narc — Tue, 01 Jun 2010 13:44:51 +0000

Dean Potter: Falling To Fly Dean Potter: Falling To Fly from ClimbingNarc.com Related posts:Dean Potter: Learning to Fly? Video: Dean Potter Interview Dean Potter Free Solos The Eiger North Face [Confirmed] Dean Potter’s Eiger FreeBASE On NBC’s Jeep World Of Adventure Sports This Weekend Falling Climber Videos Sender Films: The Sharp End Trailer Top 10 [...]

Dean Potter: Falling To Fly from ClimbingNarc.com

News & Notes – 05/26/2010

Narc — Wed, 26 May 2010 13:25:38 +0000

After an endless stream of frustrating injuries I’ve somehow managed to climb on real rock 4 of the last 5 weekends with another trip to the Red River Gorge in the plans for the coming 3 day weekend. The main ingredient in this mostly pain-free stretch has been my avoidance of bouldering of any kind which is bad because I really like bouldering, but it’s also good because climbing anything is a good feeling at this point. Remember kids: climbing anything is better than climbing nothing at all. Trust me on that one.

Now that we have that pearl of wisdom out of the way here are some News & Notes:

Tune in this Friday at either 11:00 AM or 1:30 PM EST (depends on the weather apparently) to catch live coverage of the women’s qualifying round for the Bouldering World Cup in Vienna, Austria where Alex Johnson is scheduled to compete. Vienna World Cup Live Stream
Jonathan Siegrist and Paige Claasen just wrapped up a pretty decent 2 week trip to Oregon’s Smith Rocks. In addition to a handful of 5.12 and 5.13 onsights Siegrist managed to put down 5.14a’s Bad Man, Scarface, Mr. Yuck, Chemical Ali and To Bolt Or Not To Be in short order. Claasen had an excellent trip as well with sends of White Wedding (5.13d) and Churning In The Wake (5.13a) and flashes of Darkness at Noon (5.13a) and Kings of Rap (5.12d). Check out Siegrist’s latest blog entries for the full story.

Jonathan Siegrist on To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) at Smith Rocks State Park

Photo: Andy Mann

Mike Foley repeated Livin’ Astroglide (5.14c), a variation of Dave Graham’s Livin’ Astro first done by Joe Kinder, at Rumney’s Waimea Wall
For every new fan of Spadout.com on Facebook by May 31st Spadout will donate $1 to the Access Fund
DPM has a couple of videos up from the Hueco season that are worth watching: Jackie Hueftle on Butterpumper and Alex Puccio on Tequila Sunrise
Mike McClure did what he believes to be a first ascent in the Taco Cave at Idaho’s Castle Rock. The Consolation Prize (V13) follows roughly the same line as James Litz’s unrepeated Warpath, diverging near the end to make a slightly easier but longer problem.

Why doesn’t Boulder, CO have any climbing festivals??
Daniel Woods blogs about (among other things) his new tattoo and his thoughts on where the sport is going.
Transcript of a recent interview with John Long where he gives his opinion on a wide range of topics including why he tried steroids
Other than the fact that the route Cell Block Six (5.12c) at the Red River Gorge is amazing and I’ll never forgive myself if I don’t try it soon there is something that really struck me while watching this video. Can you spot it??

Cell Block Six from Sean Stewart on Vimeo.

There’s something oddly amusing about seeing huge boulders in RMNP almost completely buried in snow
Alex Honnold is teaming up with Ueli Steck, who is best known for his fast solos of big alpine routes in Europe, to make a run at the speed record for climbing The Nose on El Capitan held by Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama. Here’s a short clip of Honnold and Steck working out the King Swing roughly half way up the wall. What do people think about these speed climbing records. Do you care??

Alex and Uli speed climbing The Nose on 5.20.10 from Chris Falkenstein on Vimeo.

The 2010 Reel Rock Tour filmmaking contest is still going on with entries dues by July 20th:

The 2010 REEL ROCK Filmmaking Competition is on. We want your best 2 minute climbing-related film. This year there are no categories. The best entries will be posted online this summer, and we’ll award two prizes – an Audience Award as determined by online voting, and the Judges’ Choice Award, determined by the filmmakers of the REEL ROCK Tour

The winners will be announced at the Boulder premiere Sept.16th, 2010, and will be featured on the tour. Winning filmmakers will win mega prize packages from our title sponsors, Windstopper and The North Face, including outerwear, tents, sleeping bags, and the works, and supporting sponsors Petzl and Evolv are throwing down climbing gear and shoes. We also have two new sponsors this year who are helping to sweeten the pot. Sterling Rope makes the lightest, best-handling climbing ropes in the world, and they’re throwing two of em into the mix. And Goal0 is an exciting new company making rugged, renewable power solutions for adventurers around the world. They’re offering a Sherpa Adventure Kit, which is the perfect way for all you filmmakers out there to keep your cameras and laptops charged while out on a shooting expedition. And if all that gear is not enough enticement, we’re also giving $500 cash to each winner. So get out there and make some magic!

Submission deadline for the competition is July 20. Check out the http://www.reelrocktour.com/ site for full rules and to watch last year’s winning films.

News & Notes – 05/26/2010 from ClimbingNarc.com

Climbing Video: Justin Alarcon Sends Shadow Warrior (V12)

Narc — Wed, 26 May 2010 09:59:09 +0000

Justin Alarcon Sends Shadow Warrior (V12) Climbing Video: Justin Alarcon Sends Shadow Warrior (V12) from ClimbingNarc.com Related posts:Climbing Video: Jason Kehl Sends Get Over It Climbing Video: Alex Puccio Sends The Centaur (V12) Climbing Video: Carrie Cooper Sends The Receptionist (V10) Climbing Video: Andre Di Felice Sends Mongolian Cosmonaut Climbing Video: Ethan Pringle Sends Abaddon [...]

Climbing Video: Justin Alarcon Sends Shadow Warrior (V12) from ClimbingNarc.com

Climbing Video: Andre Di Felice Sends Mongolian Cosmonaut

Narc — Mon, 24 May 2010 11:57:56 +0000

Andre Di Felice Sends Mongolian Cosmonaut Climbing Video: Andre Di Felice Sends Mongolian Cosmonaut from ClimbingNarc.com Related posts:Andre Di Felice Repeats The Saadhu (V14) Climbing Video: Jason Kehl Sends Get Over It Climbing Video: Carrie Cooper Sends The Receptionist (V10) Climbing Video: Alex Puccio Sends The Centaur (V12) Climbing Video: Ethan Pringle Sends Abaddon In [...]

Climbing Video: Andre Di Felice Sends Mongolian Cosmonaut from ClimbingNarc.com

Battle In The Bubble Highlight Reel

Narc — Fri, 21 May 2010 11:53:39 +0000

I believe an official highlight reel from last weekend’s Battle In The Bubble is still in the works, but until then enjoy this clip put together by Zack Sticcs:

The Battle in the Bubble – Boulder, CO from Zack Sticcs on Vimeo.

Update: My bad, the official highlight reel can be seen right here

Battle In The Bubble Highlight Reel from ClimbingNarc.com

Climbing Video: Nalle Hukkataival In Finland

Narc — Thu, 20 May 2010 13:36:27 +0000

Check out this excerpt from Chuck Fryberger’s latest movie, CORE. The clip shows Nalle Hukkataival on his home turf climbing a couple of difficult boulders with The Globalist (V14) being the most notable.

BD athlete Nalle Hukkataival bouldering in Finland from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

Black Diamond athlete Nalle Hukkataival is from Finland and even though his global travels don’t leave him much time in his homeland, he has managed to discover and establish some amazing problem hidden in the forests of Finland. Here’s an excerpt from Chuck Fryberger’s latest film Core that showcases Nalle bouldering on some of Finland’s hardest problems.

Climbing Video: Nalle Hukkataival In Finland from ClimbingNarc.com

Bouldering World Cup Greifensee Videos

Narc — Tue, 18 May 2010 20:52:13 +0000

As I mentioned yesterday, American Alex Johnson won last weekend’s bouldering World Cup in Greifensee, Switzerland calling it, “a really lucky night” in an interview with Climbing.com. Lucky or not, it’s rare to see an American having any kind of success at World Cups not held in Vail. Hopefully this is a sign of good things to come for both Alex and the rest of the U.S. Team if/when other American climbers venture overseas to compete.

To give you an idea what the climbing was like in the final round of the Greifensee World Cup event is this video that features the top two finishers for each gender (Kilian Fischhuber and Adam Ondra for the Men, Alex Johnson and Akiyo Noguchi for the Women):

Here’s a quick clip that includes post-comp interviews of the 4 climbers shown above:

Via 8a.nu

Update: Here’s yet another video from the comp

Bouldering World Cup Greifensee Videos from ClimbingNarc.com

North Face Athletes At Melloblocco 2010

Narc — Mon, 17 May 2010 11:44:54 +0000

North Face Athletes At Melloblocco 2010 North Face Athletes At Melloblocco 2010 from ClimbingNarc.com Related posts:The North Face Summit Series Road Trip Dean Potter Free Solos The Eiger North Face [Confirmed] 2009 Melloblocco Results & Adam Ondra Video Popular Posts & Videos For May 2010 Will Stanhope Does 2nd All Gear Ascent Of East Face [...]

North Face Athletes At Melloblocco 2010 from ClimbingNarc.com

The Insiders: A New Short From Big Up Productions

Narc — Fri, 14 May 2010 11:07:42 +0000

Big Up Productions just released a short film they shot back in March at Massachusetts’ Central Rock Gym with athletes Ashima Shiraishi, Paul Robinson, Sasha DiGiulian and Vasya Vorotnikov. The goal of the short was to “capture the energy and physical thrill of gym climbing and training”. Did they succeed? Decide for yourself:

Stick around after the credits if you dare…

Via Facebook & Matador Sports

The Insiders: A New Short From Big Up Productions from ClimbingNarc.com

Christian Core On The FA Of A Beautiful New V13

Narc — Fri, 14 May 2010 10:42:45 +0000

Christian Core On The FA Of A Beautiful New V13 Christian Core On The FA Of A Beautiful New V13 from ClimbingNarc.com Related posts:Climbing Video: Beautiful V12 FA At Black Mountain Review: CORE Blu-Ray Aspen? California! Beautiful! Devil’s Lake Bouldering: Alpine Club and Beautiful Soup Core Trailer Dave Graham – Dreamtime Popular Posts & Videos [...]

Christian Core On The FA Of A Beautiful New V13 from ClimbingNarc.com

Steph Davis: So In Control

Narc — Wed, 12 May 2010 11:59:39 +0000

Steph Davis: So In Control Steph Davis: So In Control from ClimbingNarc.com Related posts:Steph Davis Meetup During ABS Nationals Climbing Video: Steph Davis Climbing The Salathe Wall On El Capitan Escalade Magazine Steph Davis Interview News & Notes – 1/30/2009 Layton Kor Fundraiser

Steph Davis: So In Control from ClimbingNarc.com

Trip To The Red & CO Bouldering News

Narc — Mon, 10 May 2010 14:09:49 +0000

This weekend Mrs. Narc and I made a quick trip to the Red River Gorge in Kentucky, leaving after 7 pm Friday and returning before 7pm on Sunday. Over 1,000 miles of driving, 16+ hours spent in the car, 1 sleep-inducing midnight traffic jam in Indianapolis and 1 night spent in a thin walled motel room next to a couple that just got married. All for a quick 1.5 days of climbing. Was it worth it??? OF COURSE!

We started Saturday at the Chocolate Factory, a crag that is home to probably the most fun 5.10 sport route at the Red you should never visit because there are no fun routes . In the afternoon we ventured over to the Motherlode where I managed to finally send a route after 9 years of very sporadic failures attempts on a variety of lines there. I almost did a 2nd before coming to my senses and falling right before the last bolt. Sunday was spent at Phantasia where I managed to monkey my way up the insanely steep jug haul known as Twinkie (5.12a, how did I never try this route before???) before hitting the road.

After spending 95% of my climbing days at the Red over the years sweating and battling the humidity it was a real treat to climb in the amazing 60 degree, sunny and windy conditions that persisted throughout the weekend. Don’t look now, but I may be turning into a sport climber…

In actual climbing news that can be augmented with video, Jimmy Webb and Brion Voges both made quick repeats of Dave Graham’s Poudre Canyon classic Circadian Rhythm (V13) over the weekend. Check out some video of their sends below. The video also includes Webb making a fast 2nd try ascent of Both Sides Of The Spectrum (V12) in RMNP’s Moraine Park.

Colorado 1 from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

First vid of the season!

Including:

Both sides of the spectrum v12
Canopener V11
Whats left of the bottom of my Heart V12
Tilt Sit V8
Circadian Rhythm V13

Rumblings on the interwebs seem to indicate a confluence of very strong climbers in Colorado this summer. Should be interesting to see how the alpine season shapes up!

Trip To The Red & CO Bouldering News from ClimbingNarc.com

Climbing Video: Michele Caminati Sending Gecko Assis (V14) In Font

Narc — Mon, 10 May 2010 12:57:26 +0000

Michele Caminati Sending Gecko Assis (V14) In Font Climbing Video: Michele Caminati Sending Gecko Assis (V14) In Font from ClimbingNarc.com Related posts:Video Of Chris Schulte Sending 2 V14s In Fontainebleau Climbing Video: Four Minutes In Font Ty Landman Crushing Font Climbing Video: Vincent Pochon FA Of “The Big Island” (V15) In Font Video: Paul Robinson [...]

Climbing Video: Michele Caminati Sending Gecko Assis (V14) In Font from ClimbingNarc.com

Alan Cassidy Climbing Rollito Sharma Extension (5.14b) in Santa Linya

Narc — Fri, 07 May 2010 11:15:01 +0000

Alan Cassidy Climbing Rollito Sharma Extension (5.14b) in Santa Linya Alan Cassidy Climbing Rollito Sharma Extension (5.14b) in Santa Linya from ClimbingNarc.com Related posts:Popular Posts & Videos For May 2010 Climbing Video: Chris Sharma On First Round First Minute, Neanderthal FA Chris Sharma, Neanderthal Among Boys Sharma & Usobiaga Repeat Andrada 5.15a Excellent Alan Watts [...]

Alan Cassidy Climbing Rollito Sharma Extension (5.14b) in Santa Linya from ClimbingNarc.com

Daniel Woods Visits Minnesota

Narc — Thu, 06 May 2010 12:50:10 +0000

Much like Paul Robinson last month, Daniel Woods made a trip to Minnesota to do some work with Nicros and sample some of the climbing near Minneapolis. Over the course of just a few days he compiled a pretty nice lifetime ticklist for someone who lived in the area let alone someone just passing through. Here is some video capturing many of his sends:

Daniel Woods in Minnesota from Nicros Club-JA on Vimeo.

Daniel Woods Visits Minnesota from ClimbingNarc.com

Climbing Video: Yuji Hirayama Climbing 5.14 In Turkey

Narc — Wed, 05 May 2010 11:14:33 +0000

Yuji Hirayama Climbing 5.14 In Turkey Climbing Video: Yuji Hirayama Climbing 5.14 In Turkey from ClimbingNarc.com Related posts:Yuji Hirayama: Older, Wiser…And Still Pretty Strong Climbing Video: Daniel Woods Climbing 5.14 In Turkey The North Face’s Free Range Turkey Masters Of Stone VI Preview: Hans & Yuji Nose Speed Record Footage Huber Brothers El Capitan Speed [...]

Climbing Video: Yuji Hirayama Climbing 5.14 In Turkey from ClimbingNarc.com

2010 UBC Pro Tour Earth Treks Roc Comp Highlight Videos

Narc — Tue, 04 May 2010 12:12:04 +0000

Based on the world record increased level of traffic last week the Unified Bouldering Championships had a real hit with their Earth Treks Roc Comp. It certainly didn’t hurt that the comp was won by stars like Chris Sharma and Alex Puccio. If, like me, you missed the live stream you can watch highlight videos from the comp at DPM (or at the end of this post) right now:

Men’s Earth Treks Roc Comp Highlights

Women’s Earth Treks Roc Comp Highlights

In completely unrelated news, this site (along with many many others on my host) was compromised by a malicious worm early Saturday morning. When visiting this site via a search engine like Google the worm would attempt to trick you into doing nasty things to your computer. It is my sincere hope that nobody was negatively impacted by this. If you were I can only offer my apologies and reiterate that an up-to-date anti-virus program is a must for any Windows PC.

Since I was climbing at the Red River Gorge all weekend I didn’t become fully aware of the problem until yesterday afternoon at which point I began working on correcting the problem. At this point I think I have all the infected files fixed (thousands of them) and it’s my hope that everything is back to normal. If you notice something is still not right please leave a comment or send me an email at climbingnarc _at_ gmail.com.

UBC Pro Tour Earth Treks Roc Comp Presented by Mountain Hardwear – Men’s Highlights - from NE2C on Vimeo.

A highlight of the thrilling Pro men’s final’s of the Unified Bouldering Championships season opener, won by Chris Sharma and broadcast LIVE worldwide. Music by Glue www.gluemakesmusic.com and Emanuel and The Fear www.emanuelandthefear.com.

UBC Pro Tour Earth Treks Roc Comp Presented by Mountain Hardwear – Women’s Highlights – 04/24/10 from NE2C on Vimeo.

On April 24th, 2010 the Unified Bouldering Championships Pro Tour launched with a stunning battle between the best female climbers in the world, the two Alexs (Puccio and Johnson). It wall came down to the final moves of the final problem. Music by Pretty Lights www.prettylightsmusic.com

2010 UBC Pro Tour Earth Treks Roc Comp Highlight Videos from ClimbingNarc.com

Battle In The Bubble Part 3

Narc — Mon, 03 May 2010 17:30:34 +0000

Battle In The Bubble Part 3 Battle In The Bubble Part 3 from ClimbingNarc.com Related posts:Climbing Video: Battle In The Bubble Part 2 With Daniel Woods Battle In The Bubble Highlight Reel Battle In The Bubble Results Battle In The Bubble Live Broadcast This Saturday

Battle In The Bubble Part 3 from ClimbingNarc.com

Climbing Video: Isaac Caldiero Repeating Ambrosia

Narc — Thu, 29 Apr 2010 11:26:24 +0000

Isaac Caldiero Repeating Ambrosia Climbing Video: Isaac Caldiero Repeating Ambrosia from ClimbingNarc.com Related posts:3rd Ascent Of Ambrosia By Isaac Caldiero Climbing Video: Mike McClure Repeating Peachy 13 (V13) 2nd Ascent Of Ambrosia By Alex Honnold Climbing Video: James Kassay Repeating Sleepy Rave (V15) Climbing Video: Nic Oklobzija Climbing Chumscrubber (V11) At Way Lake Dave Graham [...]

Climbing Video: Isaac Caldiero Repeating Ambrosia from ClimbingNarc.com

Border Country

Narc — Wed, 28 Apr 2010 14:22:11 +0000

One of the cooler things I’ve seen of late is this video put together by Jeremy Collins about a new route he did with Mikey Schaefer and Dana Drummond in memory of lost friends on Yosemite’s Middle Cathedral called Border Country (V 5.12c):

If one of your first thoughts after watching the video is “how the **** did they do those animations” then you are in luck. Via Patagonia’s blog is this behind the scenes video (once again put together by Collins) that shows how some of the animations were created. Pretty cool if you ask me…

The Making of Border Country from Jeremy Collins on Vimeo.

Update: For those with the necessary skills here is a topo for Border Country

Border Country from ClimbingNarc.com