Not much time to write this week unfortunately, but I wanted to draw your attention to an online magazine I’ve been checking out recently, Climberism.  Climberism is an online website/magazine similar to Deadpoint Magazine, albeit on a smaller scale at this point.  Unlike DPM and the print magazines, Climberism is focused mainly on climbing in the northeast:

Climberism Magazine is northeast climbing. We live for epic Adirondack climbs surrounded by fall foliage, the dinner plate ice in sub-zero temps, and the humidity that has the rocks slicker than the Vermont butter on your maple pancakes. We are the clam chowder in your thermos, the microbrew on top of Mt. Washington, and the muddy crash pad when spring season breaks. We’re not just any climbing, we’re northeast climbing. It’s who we are, it’s what we do.

Issue 5 of Climberism was just released, and while it follows the familiar climbing magazine template as far as layout and design is concerned, its focus solely on one region of the country made for some interesting content.  You can check out Issue 5 for yourself, as well as all the back issues, by clicking here.  (The issues are free provided you are willing to go through a brief sign-up process)

Climberism Magazine from Climbing Narcissist

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Climbing Magazine has gone ahead and posted the feature interview with Chris Sharma from their current issue on their website.  In the wide-ranging interview Sharma discusses taking a year off in his late teens due to a knee injury, his latest projects, his ill-fated attempt to flash The Nose, settling down in Spain, how he plans to stay connected to the climbing community as he grows older and much more.

In addition, there are several excellent Boone Speed photos of Sharma on a few of his potential 5.15 projects including the well-documented First Round, First Minute at Margalef, Perfecto Mondo, also at Margalef, and an unnamed project at Oliana that Sharma has more or less given up on since it mainly involves small holds.

Climbing Mag Chris Sharma Interview

Climbing Mag Interviews Chris Sharma from Climbing Narcissist

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The holidays have me a bit behind on things, but here is a quick look at what was in the December issues of both Climbing and Urban Climber.  Climbing #291 has a mostly ice climbing focus while Urban Climber has a feature profile piece on Daniel Woods.

Climbing #291 – December 2010

Climbing #291 - December 2010

What’s on the cover:

Adrien Erlandson climbing on Thin Chance in Hyalite Canyon, MT

Featured Articles:

• Soft Kor by Brendan Leonard – 7 Layton Kor climbs that mere mortals can enjoy
• Diamonds in the Dust by Molly Loomis – Climbing in Oman
• Baja Unrequited by Bennett Barthelemy – Epicing while searching for rock in Mexico
• Skills Special:  Steep Ice – Tips from 7 ice climbing experts

Other Notables:

• Hot Flashes from The Eiger
• Off The Wall – Climbing the “Fifty Classics”, Paul Ross’s 500th FA and more
• Ten Things you didn’t know about the early days of Sport Climbing
• Players Profile of…me?
• Tech tips on the dangers of dirty ropes
• Classic Climbs – Dopey Duck (5.9)
• Mileage – Sea-cliff ice climbing in Quebec
• Perspective piece on Dean Fidelman

My Pick:

I don’t ice climb but I imagine the Skills Special on ice climbing would be quite helpful for those that are interested.  Otherwise the article about 7 attainable Layton Kor classics is a good place to find your next adventure.

Urban Climber #45 – December 2010

Urban Climber #45 - December 2010

What’s on the cover:

Daniel Woods

Featured Articles:

• La Fore Tranquille by Caroline Treadway – Profile piece on Daniel Woods
• Young Guns 2010 by Jackie Hueftle –  A look at some of the young, up and comers in the sport
• Urban (Climber) Dictionary by Matt Samet and Andrew Tower

Other Notables:

• Profiles of Adam Peters, Jackie Hueftle, Liu Yong Bang and Lizzy Asher
• Getting the most from your home gym
• Homage – Disastrous first ice climbing trips
• Plastic Paradise visits Florida’s The Edge climbing gym
• UC pairs up well-known climbing areas with their appropriate adult beverages

My Pick:

It was nice to learn more about Daniel Woods including an interesting anecdote about some of the non-climbing related difficulties he encountered surrounding his send of Jaws II (5.15a) last fall.

What’s In The Mags: December 2010 from Climbing Narcissist

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Better late than never, here is November’s climbing magazine rundown.  In addition to the usual suspects I included a recap of what was in the latest issue of Alpinist, a magazine I’ve thoroughly enjoyed reading these past couple of years.

Rock & Ice # 190 – December 2010

Rock & Ice # 190 - December 2010

What’s on the cover:

Climbing on Colorado’s remote Crystal Tower – Photo by Keith Ladzinski

Featured Articles:

• Tower of the Damned, Climbing the Crystal Tower by Jeff Jackson
• Land of Dreams and Nightmares by Nathan Smith – Rock climbing and bouldering in Mongolia
• Thin Red Lines by Blake Herrington -  Defying the Red Rock Bolt Ban
• Shutterbugs – A photo essay from the 2010 Rock & Ice Photo Camp

Other Notables:

• Russ Clune talks about why Fat City Direct at the Gunks, NY is his favorite 5.10
• Crossroads – Whitney Boland “recounts how getting caught in a flash flood gave her a new perspective on her life”
• Ask the Coach – How to mentally train for climbing and how to train power
• Ask Gear Guy – Tips for when to replace slings and quickdraws
• Ask Dr. J – Returning to climbing after a broken back and other back strengthening exercises
• What I’ve Learned – Interview with filmmaker Chuck Fryberger
• Tuesday Night Bouldering looks at Project FAIL
• Reviews of the books Skyscraperman, Expresso Lessons and With Bare Hands
• Field Tested reviews of the Wild Country Rock Lite helmet, the RAB Xenon Jacket and the La Sportiva Katana Lace Rock Shoe

My Pick:

Blake Herrington’s article about the new routes going up in Red Rocks despite a bolting ban was certainly interesting to read and Nathan Smith’s story from Mongolia was pretty cool as well.

Climbing #290 – November 2010

Climbing #290 - November 2010

What’s on the cover:

Climbers near the summit of Chopicalqui in Peru – Photo by Alexandre Buisse

Featured Articles:

• Angels of Mont Blanc by Neil Brodie – Follow the world’s busiest mountain rescue team on Mont Blanc
• Wing and a Prayer by Martin Gutmann – A story about Maurice Wilson’s ill-fated 1933 attempt on Mt. Everest
• Trouble With Me by Nick Bullock – Bullock epics on the sea cliffs of North Wales
• Reader Epics

Other Notables:

• Hot Flashes from Lincoln Lake and Greenland
• Off The Wall – Climbing in Iraq and rebuilding the Snowbird Hut in Alaska
• Ten Things you didn’t know about the Yosemite Search & Rescue team
• Players Profile of Anthony Love
• Tech tips on retreating in storms and rescue insurance
• Classic Climbs - Black Dike (WI4/5 M3) on New Hampshire’s Cannon Cliff
• Mileage – Adventure bouldering in Columbia, CA
• Perspective piece on Kurt Albert

My Pick:

As an Everest history buff I have a soft spot for anything about the “old days” on Mt. Everest, so Martin Gutmann’s article about Maurice Wilson’s ill-fated attempt to climb the Big E back in 1933 was a must read for me.

Alpinist 32 – Autumn 2010

What’s on the cover:

Robert Jasper on Monte Sarmiento’s west summit – Photo by Ralf Gantzhorn

Featured Articles:

• Earth, Stone and Sky by Peter Beal – Peter seeks “a different kind of transcendence” in the hills of Utah
• Inexplorado by Ralf Gantzhorn – Gantzhorn travels to the remote peak of Monte Sarmiento
• Scared by Colin Haley – A moving piece by Haley about “fear, loss and persistent desire”
• Searching For Namibia by Majka Burhardt – Burhardt strives for “a deeper connection between cultural understanding and vertical adventure” in Namibia
• On The Trails Of Glaciers by Fabiano Ventura – Ventura traveled to the Karakorum in Pakistan to recreate old photos from early 1900′s, showing how severely many of the glaciers are shrinking

Other Notables:

• Letters about the Cerro Torre controversy
• First Ascent – Doug Chabot draws inspiration fr0m Alex Lowe to finish a project
• Full Value – Phil Broscovak experiences one of his “wildest wild hairs” attempting a first winter ascent in Colorado’s Black Canyon
• Local Hero – Blake Herrington profiles Cascades local Jens Holsten

My Pick:

As usual Alpinist delivers a ton of content, something that I found quite difficult to summarize here.  It really is a must read if you have any interest in the type of traditional rock climbing or alpine type stories they cover.

From this current issue Colin Haley’s story about his new route on Mt. Foraker and the type of risks he is taking was really quite moving.  Definitely check that out.

Urban Climber #44 – November 2010

Urban Climber #44 - November 201

What’s on the cover:

Pete Vintoniv taking a whipper in Nevada – Photo by Andrew Burr

Featured Articles:

• Scandinavian Summer – 3 friends on a dream trip across Norway and Sweden
• Escape Route – Matt Segal and company escape the crowds of Colorado and explore the bouldering in Idaho’s Sawtooth Mountains
• Can You Call Yourself a Climber – The “ultimate test of climbing knowledge”.

Other Notables:

• Profiles of Armin Buchroithner, Neely Quinn, Jonny Hork, Phil Schaal, Jeremy Collins and Jacinda Hunter
• 411 on 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell
• Staying fit for climbing through “proper protein intake”
• Plastic Paradise – Denver Bouldering Club

My Pick:

Well, for whatever reason my copy of Urban Climber never arrived by the time I wrote this summary so I can’t comment much on the issue.  I did page through it at the gym and the Sawtooths bouldering article looked cool and the climbing quiz had a few questions that even I didn’t know the answer to.

What’s In The Mags: November 2010 from Climbing Narcissist

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Welcome back to a developing feature I’m calling What’s In The Mags.  The idea is to give a brief recap of what’s happening with all the major climbing print publications in the U.S.  You can check out September’s edition here and below you’ll find a brief recap of what was in the latest issues of Urban Climber, Climbing and Deadpoint Magazine.

Urban Climber #43 – October 2010

Urban Climber #43 - October 2010

What’s on the cover:

Angie Payne on The Automator (V13) in RMNP, CO – Photo by John Dickey

Featured Articles:

• Stills from the Reel Rock Tour Films
• The World According to Angie Payne by Andrew Tower- Lengthy feature interview of Angie Payne after her historic FFA of The Automator (V13)
• Real Grit by Andy Mann – Portrait piece
• Hueco Dream Digs by Abbey Smith – Profile of Ty Foose’s home near Hueco Tanks

Other Notables:

• Profile of the Chloé Graftiaux who tragically lost her life in a fall back in August
• The Cerro Torre controversy
• Profiles of Amanda Berezowski, Jason Kehl, Alex Savage and Jamie Emerson
• Four steps to stronger sending
• Mesa Rim gym in San Diego, CA

My Pick:

My favorite part about this issue of UC was not the content (although the Angie Payne story and other articles were well worth reading) but rather UC’s new, much cleaner layout.  It’s clear they listened to reader feedback as the new layout shies away from the overly busy backgrounds that made previous issues actually difficult to read.  If you haven’t checked out Urban Climber lately now might be a good time to give it another shot.

Climbing #289 – October 2010

Climbing #289 - October 2010

What’s on the cover:

Kevin Jorgeson and Tommy Caldwell on their Dawn Wall project on El Cap – Photo by Corey Rich

Featured Articles:

• Stoney Point by Cole Gibson – A look at the history of climbing at Southern California’s Stoney Point including a brief topo of 30 of the author’s area favorites.  Check out this excellent video for more.
• The Project by Dougald MacDonald – Interview with Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson about their massive free climbing project on El Capitan
• The Colossus by Steve Bartlett – Climbing chossy towers in the Utah desert

Other Notables:

• Hot Flashes interviews Angie Payne after her FFA of The Automator and chronicles the first free climb of a legendary wall in Norway
• Off The Wall – Climbing in Iraq and rebuilding the Snowbird Hut in Alaska
• Ten Things you didn’t know the 3rd Flatiron
• Players Profile of Matt Maddaloni
• Tech tips on coiling a rope, extending your rappel device and rodeo clipping
• Classic Climbs – Snake Dike (5.7 R) on Half Dome in Yosemite, CA
• Mileage – Bouldering in Tinos, Greece

My Pick:

It was hard for me not to enjoy the cover story on Kevin Jorgeson and Tommy Caldwell.  I had the chance to meet them both when I was in Yosemite and to say they are psyched about what they are doing would be an understatement.  The story does a good job of finding out right from the source what is driving them.  Cool stuff.

Deadpoint Magazine 13 – Nov.-Dec. 2010

Deadpoint Magazine 13 - Nov.-Dec. 2010

Featured Articles:

• Cali-Lime by Anthony Lapomardo - Exploring amazing looking bouldering in Sonora, CA.  Be sure to check out the video that goes with the magazine piece.
• Access Adventure by Mikey Williams – A humorous walk through some of the decisions climbers make on a daily basis that affect access to climbing areas
• Ibex, Utah by Christine Balaz – A look at the history of this isolated Utah bouldering destination including some helpful topos
• Brazil Bouldering by Jon Cardwell – A photo essay about Cardwell’s recent trip Brazil.  Be sure to check out the accompanying video of his FA of House In The Sky (V14).

Other Notables:

• Report from the Hound Ears Triple Crown stop
• Profile of Mike Foley
• Holiday gift guide
• Climbing personality quiz by Eric Horst

My Pick:

This issue was Deadpoint’s “Photo & Video Annual” and this is where their hybrid print/online format really works well for them.  The article by Anthony Lapormardo about the bouldering near Sonora, CA was interesting to read and the addition of a free online companion video was a nice bonus.

What’s In The Mags: October 2010 from Climbing Narcissist

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Welcome to a new feature I’m calling What’s In The Mags.  This is most definitely a work in progress, but my goal is to highlight each issue of the major U.S. climbing magazines.  While the internet has become a great resource for reading and learning about climbing, I still think that magazines have a lot to offer.  Without further ado, here is what is going on (in no particular order) in the latest issues of Climbing, Rock & Ice, Deadpoint and Urban Climber.

Climbing #288 – September 2010

Climbing #288 - September 2010

What’s on the cover:

Chris Sierzant climbing in Little River Canyon, AL – Photo by Tomas Donoso

Featured Articles:

• Deep South Water Scrambling by Tomas Donoso – A look at some of the different “water scrambling” areas surrounding Chattanooga, TN
• Wind, Sand, and Scars by Andrew Burr – Climbing remote desert towers in UT with Pete Vintoniv, Rob Pizem and Orin Salah.
• Hollywood Hideout by Nicky Dyal – Craggin at Malibu Creek, CA

Other Notables:

• Editorial from new editor-in-chief Dougald McDonald outlining his vision for the future of the magazine which will include an “unwavering focus on the average American climber”.
• Ten Things you didn’t know about knots
• Sporting Life – Matt Samet’s look at his “four most appalling experiences” at climbing gyms
• History of the access situation at Draper’s Bluff, IL
• Hot Flashes – News from Alex Honnold and Mt. Foraker
• Players – profile of guidebook author Harald Roker
• Tech tips on falling and foot care
• Classic Climbs – Skyline (5.8) – City Of Rocks, ID
• Trad climbing and bouldering in Minnesota
• Profile of Smith Rock “steward” Ryan Cafferky
• Perspective – Timmy O’Neill

My Pick:

Of the featured articles I most enjoyed Andrew Burr’s piece about climbing remote towers in Utah while the “water scrambling” piece just made me more jealous of the amount of rock there is near Chattanooga, TN.  With Dougald McDonald on board as the new editor-in-chief it will be very interesting to see where Climbing goes from here.

Rock & Ice # 189 – October 2010

Rock & Ice # 189 - October 2010

What’s on the cover:

Alex Chabot climbing on the amazing columns of Pixelization (5.12a) at Garni Gorge, Armenia – Photo by Sam Bie

Issue Theme:

“The Amazing Issue”

Featured Articles:

• Everyman’s Exposed
• Armenia, Amazing by Jeff Jackson – A look at the “aesthetically hallucinating” walls in Armenia
• The Vulture’s Garden by Strappo – An insanely long article that, frankly, I haven’t found the time to read just yet
• Big Sky by Emily Stifler – “The seasons and faces of Montana climbing”

Other Notables:

• Cliff Notes looking back on the 1963 ascent of The Diagonal (V 5.9 A5) in Colorado’s Black Canyon by Jimmy Dunn and Earl Wiggins
• Spotlight on Chris Schulte
• Tuesday Night Bouldering – Andrew Bisharat
• What I’ve Learned – Beth Rodden talks about things she’s learned over her years as a professional climber
• Ask Dr. J – Dr. J discusses hypermobility and tendinosis
• Ask the Coach – Neil Gresham talks about “eccentric strength training”
• Parting shot from Simon Carter

My Pick:

It’s hard not to be inspired by the “Armenia Amazing” & “Big Sky” articles, and the “What I’ve Learned” piece was a nice insight into the mind of Beth Rodden.

Deadpoint Magazine 12 – Sept.-Oct 2010

What’s on the cover:

Bouldering at Bishop’s Sad Boulders – Photo by Damon Corso

Featured Articles:

• Bouldering at the Sads photo essay by Damon Corso  with an accompanying video here
• Confessions of a Dirtbag by Craig Stevens
• Red Hot Passion by Bill Strachan

Other Notables:

• Responses to the Women’s issue
• Outdoor Retailer humor
• Profile of Young Chu, shoe designer and the creator of the Mad Rock brand
• Interview with Tommy Caldwell’s severed finger
• Interviews with hold shaper Tony Reynaldo and the Bikini Boulderers Facebook group
• 10 Does and Don’ts For Sending Your Project by Eric Hörst

My Pick:

After a an excellent Women’s Issue this issue of DPM left me a bit flat.  The piece on bouldering at the Sads was good albeit a bit brief.  Otherwise the Us Magazine inspired Outdoor Retailer piece is always good for a laugh.

Urban Climber #41 – August 2010

Urban Climber #41 - August 2010

What’s on the cover:

Lauren Lee working Breaking The Law (5.14b) in St. George, UT – Photo by Keith Ladzinski

Featured Articles:

• The X Factor by Melissa Strong – Female FFAs with thoughts from Ana Burgos, Jill Church, Thomasina Pidgeon, Natasha Barnes, Jody Hansen, Lisa Rands & Angie Payne.
• A trip to Smith rocks with Jonathan Siegrist – photo essay
• Urban Climber’s Abridged Climbing Almanac including 25 things every climber should know

Other Notables:

• Comparison of Battle in the Bubble & Vail World Cup by Jackie Hueftle
• Profiles of Jill Church, Nicky Dyal, Jenn Flemming, Jimmy Webb, Stefan Glowacz and the Gravity Vault climbing gym
• Photo spread on Utah’s Black and Tan Wall by Keith Ladzinski
• Tips and techniques for projecting
• The Myths and Truths about Chalk

My Pick:

The discussion about first female ascents was really well done and is well worth the read if you’re interested in that discussion (I am).  The Climbing Alamanac was a bit hit or miss but it did have some good stuff in it.

What’s In The Mags: September 2010 from Climbing Narcissist

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Issue 2 Of Squamish Climbing Magazine Now Available from Climbing Narcissist

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Deadpoint Magazine launched their first annual Photo & Video edition with a slew of new online videos and a new edition of their free magazine.  The magazine, which you can view by clicking here, has the usual slate of interviews, stories and of course pictures.  For being billed as a photo annual, I was a bit disappointed with how the pictures come across in the online reader.  Zooming in on the pictures to get a better look at what was happening seems to result in the image getting blurry which was not good in my opinion.

In conjunction with the magazine, there were a bunch of new videos added to the DPM HDTV area as well.  The main offering is the premier of Colorado Glow, a climbing video that actually tries to have a plot of all things.  While there are obvious jokes to be made about a (climbing) porn trying to have a plot, the end result is still pretty cool.

Here is the full rundown of videos:

• Colorado Glow
• Justin Edl on his new 5.14 crack climbing Vedauwoo
• Rob Pizem climbing a new trad line, Aqualung (5.13a), at Mt. Evans
• Jason Kehl shaping holds
• Rocktoberfest 2009
• Brandi Proffit bouldering in New Mexico

Deadpoint Magazine Photo & Video Annual

Deadpoint Magazine 2009 Photo & Video Annual Now Online from Climbing Narcissist

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Check out the latest issue of Rock & Ice magazine for an article on the recent Mammut Bouldering Championships which features some quotes from yours truly.  I’m not sure what page it’s on because I can’t remember if my subscription ran out last month or not, but you can read the article online as well.

It’s worth clarifying that the 16,000 hits mentioned was mostly a result of the Live Blog auto-refreshing, but like the guys at ne2c I was very happy with the turnout.

Rock & Ice article

ClimbingNarc.com Mentioned In Latest Rock & Ice from Climbing Narcissist

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Issue 6 of Deadpoint Magazine is now online and it looks like they have been listening to your feedback.  The online reader has been revamped for a much better reading experience in my opinion.  You can now zoom in and out much more easily, and you can also download a PDF copy of the magazine for offline enjoyment.

As for the content, here are some of what you can read about in this edition:

• Interview with Andy Chasteen about 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell
• A tribute to John Bachar from ODub & Misty Murphy
• Interview with Mikey Williams, unheralded New River Gorge local
• Red Rocks photo essay
• Fontainebleau story by Chris Schulte

Issue 6 Of Deadpoint Magazine

Be sure to also check out the footage of Nalle Hukkataival hiking Jade (V15) on DPM HDTV as well.

Issue 6 OF Deadpoint Magazine Now Available from Climbing Narcissist

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