Climbing Narcissist » World Cup

Schubert, Ernst Win 2011 Lead Climbing World Cup In Boulder

Narc — Mon, 10 Oct 2011 13:45:07 +0000

Last night over 1,000 people packed into Boulder’s Movement Climbing & Fitness to watch the final round of the IFSC sanctioned lead climbing World Cup, the first such event held in the U.S. in over 20 years. Over 20,000 additional climbing fans watched on the live feed as the Austrian duo of Jakob Schubert and Johanna Ernst bested their respective fields to take the win.

For Schubert it was his 6th consecutive win while Ernst made it look easy as she casually moved passed the highpoint shared by a few of the other women. The only Americans to make finals, Matty Hong and Sasha DiGiulian, both climbed well and DiGiulian in particular was right there in terms of competing for a spot on the podium.

2011 Lead World Cup – Boulder, CO
Men’s Final Results	Women’s Final Results
Jakob Schubert AUT Sachi Amma JPN Romain Desgranges FRA Manuel Romain FRA Jorg Verhoeven NED Matty Hong USA Sean McColl CAN Ramon Julian Puigblanque ESP USA Finishes 11. Carlo Traversi 16. Ben Hoberg 18. Noah Ridge 20. Ian Dory 23. Josh Levin 24. Ryan Sewell 25. Ben Spannuth 27. Shane Puccio 28. Owen Graham 29. Alex Johnson 30. Kevin McCartney 34. Steve Hong Full Men’s Results	Johanna Ernst AUT Mina Markovic SLO Momoka Oda JPN Maja Vidmar Angela Eiter AUT Akiyo Noguchi JPN Sasha DiGiulian Charlotte Durif USA Finishes 11. Chelsea Rude 13. Paige Claassen 15. Delaney Miller 16. Alex Johnson 18. Michaela Kiersch 19. Audrey Sniezek 21. Emily Harrington 22. Tiffany Hensley 24. Amelia Metcalf 25. Alyrene Dorey 26. Amanda Sutton Full Women’s Results

I was one of those people who tuned in to watch the live feed, a first for me for these lead climbing World Cups. Even though sport climbing comps are a little boring to watch — minutes of climbers climbing the same ground only for them to fall at or near the same move in a split second of action¹ — it was cool to see some of the international climbers competing. Overall the broadcast was well done even if it did suffer from the inexplicable problem of the director of the broadcast switching to random crowd shots right when a climber was reaching the crux. Dab!

Replays would be really nice for this. ↩

Schubert, Ernst Win 2011 Lead Climbing World Cup In Boulder from Climbing Narcissist

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Lead World Cup This Weekend In Boulder

Narc — Thu, 06 Oct 2011 14:58:00 +0000

This weekend Boulder, CO, and more specifically Movement Climbing & Fitness, will play host to the first lead climbing World Cup held on American soil in over 20 years. 67 athletes from around the world, including 25 from the U.S., will compete Saturday and Sunday according to the following schedule (all times MDT):

Saturday

11:30 am – Qualifiers

Sunday

12:00 pm – Semi-finals
7:00 pm – Finals

You can catch the proceedings live on the IFSC.tv stream.

To commemorate the impending return of the World Cup, the American Alpine Club caught up with Jeff Lowe, one of the people who was instrumental in the last World Cups held in the U.S. There are a lot of interesting tidbits in the interview including this one about the type of purse offered in an event held in 1988:

There was a $17,000 purse, with cash prizes all the way to tenth place. We even paid some expenses for the athletes to get to the event—we really wanted to respect them and make it a great experience for everyone. That was in 1988.

As to why there haven’t been more World Cups in the U.S. ? Well, running climbing comps is expensive:

Attracting sponsorship is more difficult than people think!

Check out the full interview here.

Lead World Cup This Weekend In Boulder from Climbing Narcissist

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Fischhuber, Stöhr Win 2011 Bouldering World Cup

Narc — Wed, 24 Aug 2011 12:32:59 +0000

After a brief hiatus the 2011 Bouldering World Cup circuit held its final event in Munich, Germany over the weekend. Russians dominated the men’s event with Dimitry Sharafutdinov flashing all four problems followed by fellow countrymen Rustam Gelmanov and Alexey Rubstov finishing in 2nd and 3rd respectively. For the women it was Slovenia’s Mina Markovic who topped out three boulders to take the win.

Going into the event Kilian Fishhuber had already locked up his 5th overall title while Anna Stöhr and Akiyo Noguchi were separated by a mere five points. In the end it was Stöhr who would take the overall title on the strength of her 3rd place finish in Munich while Noguchi’s 6th place finish was good enough to hold on to 2nd overall.

American Alex Puccio completed her first full season on the World Cup circuit with an 8th place finish in Munich. This finish, along with a consistent performance throughout the season that saw her make finals in 7 out of the 9 events, solidified her 3rd place standing in the overall rankings and put an American on the podium for the first time ever.

2011 Munich Bouldering World Cup Final Results
Men’s Final Results	Women’s Final Results
Dmitry Sharafutdinov RUS 4t4 4b4 Rustam Gelmanov RUS 4t7 4b6 Alexey Rubstov RUS 2t4 4b6 Klemen Becan SLO 1t1 4b4 Mykhaylo Shalagin UKR 1t1 4b8 Kilian Fischhuber AUT 2t3 3b4 USA Finishes 13. Daniel Woods	Mina Markovic SLO 3t7 3b7 Juliane Wurm GER 2t4 3b3 Anna Stöhr AUT 1t1 3b3 Shauna Coxsey GBR 1t1 3b10 Yana Chereshneva RUS 1t1 3b13 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 1t2 2b3 USA Finishes 8. Alex Puccio 15. Sasha DiGiulian 32. Courtney Sanders 36. Audrey Sniezek

Not sure what scores like 2t3 3b4 mean? Check out this post where I tried my best to explain the World Cup scoring system.

2011 Bouldering World Cup Men’s Overall Results	2011 Bouldering World Cup Women’s Overall Results
Kilian Fischhuber (AUT) Dmitry Sharafutdinov (RUS) Guillaume Glairon-Mondet (FRA) Tsukuru Hori (JPN) Alexey Rubstov (RUS) Rustam Gelamanov (RUS) USA Finishes 9. Daniel Woods	Anna Stöhr (AUT) Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) Alex Puccio (USA) Melissa Le Neve (FRA) Mina Markovic (SLO) Juliane Wurm (GER) USA Finishes 8. Alex Johnson 21. Angie Payne

For some media from the event check out this post on the Spot’s blog which breaks down a few of the problems in finals and then there is this photo gallery by Marco Kost at Urban Climber.

Fischhuber, Stöhr Win 2011 Bouldering World Cup from Climbing Narcissist

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News & Notes – 8/17/2011

Narc — Wed, 17 Aug 2011 13:31:47 +0000

News…

Jorg Verhoeven had a good week recently redpointing Hades (5.14d) at the “God Wall” in Nassereith, Austria and sending The Never Ending Story (V14, although V13 is getting mentioned a lot these days) in Magic Wood, Switzerland.
Adam Pustelnik and Nico Favresse teamed up to make the first repeat of the much-hyped multi-pitch Orbayu on the Naranjo de Bulnes formation in Picos de Europa, Spain. The climb was first done in 2009 by the Pou brother Eneko and Iker with difficulties suggested up to 5.14c/d. In this report on Black Diamond’s website Favresse and Pustelnik confirm the quality of the line but humbly suggest that most of the pitches felt easier with difficulties “only” up to 5.14a or b. Best wishes to Pustelnik as he was badly injured in a ground-fall attempting a new route after the Orbayu ascent.
According to her 8a scorecard Audrey Sniezek redpointed her first 5.13d in Porn Star at Washington’s Little Si.
I had to double-check my calendar to make sure it wasn’t April Fool’s Day after Jonathan Siegrist posted some pictures of a huge swoop of blue limestone south of Salt Lake City called The Hoop. That rock can’t be in American can it? Apparently it is, and Siegrist had made the trip there to do some work on a video project for Arc’teryx. Like a true professional he managed to throw down a repeat of Chris Sharma’s “savage, delicate and powerful” Moose Licks (5.14b) after four tries.
Sasha DiGiulian blogs about her win at the European Youth Cup in Imst, Austria.
Since breaking his back in a fall in Rifle last summer Josh Wharton won the 2011 Ouray Mixed Climbing comp, enchained three summits in Patagonia and now he’s done the FFA of the Dunn-Westbay route on the iconic Diamond of Longs Peak:

On the day of the free ascent I stumble and fall, and generally epic before sending the crux pitch on my third try of the day. Above, I fall again, cramping and fighting wet rock on numerous sections of tricky 5.12. The rope gets pulled and I manage to put it all together for the first free ascent. I’m tired for a week.

…and Notes

The Access Fund is looking for your feedback on a series of grant proposals
The 2011 Bouldering World Cup wraps up this weekend in Munich, Germany. Scheduled to compete for Team America will be Daniel Woods, Alex Puccio, Courtney Sanders, Sasha DiGiulian and Audrey Sniezek. Watch the comp live starting Friday at IFSC.tv.
Speaking of amazing looking rock
The Outdoor Retailer Trade show has come and gone. I don’t know if I’ve just been conditioned by my overlord Steve Jobs to want to run out and buy new products the second I see them or what, but I find the product cycles of the outdoor industry to be a bit frustrating. Some interesting products are being unveiled but it seems like you are lucky if they are actually released within 12 months of being unveiled. That said, for an overview of some products you might see at some point in the future check out the OR recap from Splitter Choss as well as part 1 and part 2 of DPM’s coverage.
Today is the last day to enter for a chance to win a free download of Better Than Chocoloate
On Saturday, August 27th the Rifle Climbers’ Coalition will be putting on the 2011 Rifle Rendez-S.P.E.W in conjuction with the annual clean-up day. More on how you can compete in the elaborately thought out game of S.P.E.W. here.

In southern California? Head out to Carlsbad to meet Steph Davis and Chris Sharma tonight at the SoCal premier of Chuck Fryberger’s latest movie, The Scene.

Comping up September 2-5 is the Skaha Climbing Festival in Penticton, BC, Canada. The event will have the usual array of clinics, competitions, gear demos and appearances by Will Stanhope and Beth Rodden.

News & Notes – 8/17/2011 from Climbing Narcissist

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2011 Bouldering World Cup Sheffield Results

Narc — Tue, 05 Jul 2011 12:29:23 +0000

The 2011 bouldering World Cup circuit continued last weekend with a stop in Sheffield, England. Daniel Woods and Alex Puccio continued their strong showings finishing 4th and 3rd respectively. 3rd is also where Alex Puccio finds herself in the overall standings which is impressive considering that this is her first full season on the circuit. Here are the full results from finals:

2011 Bouldering World Cup – Sheffield, England
Men’s Final Results	Women’s Final Results
Kilian Fischhuber AUT 2t3 3b4 Cedric Lachat SUI 2t5 4b9 Alexey Rubstov RUS 2t13 4b13 Daniel Woods USA 1t2 4b14 Thomas Caleyron FRA 1t2 3b4 Nicky De Leeuw NED 1t3 3b5 USA Finishes 21. Ian Dory Full Men’s Results	Akiyo Noguchi JPN 2t2 4b4 Melissa Le Neve FRA 2t3 3b5 Alex Puccio USA 2t7 4b11 Juliane Wurm GER 1T1 3b4 Katharina Saurwein AUT 1t1 2b2 Anna Stöhr AUT 1t2 4b8 USA Finishes 12. Alex Johnson 21. Courtney Sanders Full Women’s Results

Not sure what scores like 2t3 3b4 mean? Check out this post where I tried my best to explain the World Cup scoring system.

On the media front, Keith Sharples has a couple of blog posts up with pictures from qualifiers and finals and The Spot’s blog has a nice breakdown of each problem from finals.

The Bouldering World Cup circuit takes a break now for a while as all the best competition climbers in the world, including a large contingent of Americans, will soon descend upon Arco, Italy for the World Championships July 15-24.

2011 Bouldering World Cup Sheffield Results from Climbing Narcissist

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Results From 2011 UBC Pro Tour EMS Pro & Bouldering World Cup Barcelona

Narc — Mon, 27 Jun 2011 13:25:33 +0000

The big UBC Pro Tour comp went down over the weekend in New York City’s Central Park. The live feed was plagued by problems initially which caused many of the people who checked in with the live blog to miss the entire first problem. Fortunately, order was restored and we were able to watch Angie Payne flash the remaining two problems and Vasya Vorotnikov finish his last two problems giving them both the win in their respective categories. Look for a highlight reel from the guys at LT11 later today and check out this photo gallery from the comp on the New York Times website.

2011 UBC Pro Tour Eastern Mountain Sports Pro – New York, New York
Men’s Results	Women’s Results
Vasya Vorotnikov Ty Landman Mike Feinberg Rob D’Anastasio Mauricio Huerta Jon Glassberg Full Men’s Results	Angie Payne Sasha DiGiulian Lizzy Asher Francesca Metcalf Dana Riddle Tiffany Hensley Full Women’s Results

The UBC comp wasn’t the only thing going on this weekend as many of the world’s best comp climbers gathered in Barcelona, Spain for another stop on the Bouldering World Cup circuit. Alex Puccio and Alex Johnson proved to be nothing if not consistent as they finished 2nd and 7th respectively for the 3rd time this season. Coming off a 2nd place finish in Eindhoven Daniel Woods finished in 13th.

2011 Bouldering World Cup – Barcelona, Spain
Men’s Results	Women’s Results
Guillaume Glairon Mondet FRA 2t2 4b4 Rustam Gelamanov RUS 2t2 3b3 Dmitry Sharafutdinov RUS 2t5 4b8 Alexey Rubstov RUS 2t5 3b7 Kilian Fischhuber AUT 1t1 3b3 Lukas Ennemoser AUT 1t1 3b3 Tsukuru Hori JPN 0t 1b2 USA Finishes 13. Daniel Woods 37. Ian Dory 55. Matty Hong Full Men’s Results	Akiyo Noguchi JPN 4t8 4b4 Alex Puccio USA 2t4 3b3 Melissa Le Neve FRA 2t4 3b3 Mina Markovic SLO 2t6 3b6 Juliane Wurm GER 1t2 4b5 Anna Stohr AUT 0t 3b8 USA Finishes 7. Alex Johnson 25. Courtney Sanders Full Women’s Results

Results From 2011 UBC Pro Tour EMS Pro & Bouldering World Cup Barcelona from Climbing Narcissist

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2011 Bouldering World Cup Eindhoven Results

Narc — Thu, 23 Jun 2011 16:00:05 +0000

The 2011 bouldering World Cup circuit resumed last weekend with a stop in Eindhoven, Netherlands. In his second comp of the season Daniel Woods put on an impressive showing finishing second to Kilian Fischhuber by 1 attempt since both finished all 4 problems. For the women Akiyo Noguchi won with the American Alexes finishing just out of finals. Here are the full results from finals:

2011 Bouldering World Cup – Eindhoven, Netherlands
Men’s Final Results	Women’s Final Results
Kilian Fischhuber AUT 4t5 4b4 Daniel Woods USA 4t6 4b5 Francois Kaiser FRA 3t5 4b4 Dmitry Sharafutdinov 3t7 3b3 Thomas Caleyron FRA 3t8 4b9 David Barrans GBR 1t1 4b11 Full Men’s Results	Akiyo Noguchi JPN 4t6 4b5 Anna Stöhr AUT 4t8 4b7 Melissa Le Neve FRA 3t6 4b6 Juliane Wurm GER 2t4 3b5 Anne-Laure Chevrier FRA 2t7 3b10 Petra Klingler SUI 1t1 2b2 USA Finishes 9. Alex Johnson 10. Alex Puccio 35. Courtney Sanders Full Women’s Results

Not sure what scores like 1t4 4b7 mean? Check out this post where I tried my best to explain the World Cup scoring system.

For a nice recap of the comp including several screen grabs from the live feed check out this post on the Spot Routesetting blog.

The bouldering World Cup circuit has only a few stops remaining and this weekend the circuit moves to Barcelona, Spain. Here’s the full schedule of events that will unfold live on IFSC.tv:

Saturday 25 June:

09:00      Men isolation opening

11:00      Qualification Men

14:00       Women isolation opening

16:00      Qualification Women

Sunday 26 June

09:00       Men and Women isolation opening

11:00       Semi-finals Men and Women

15:30     Men and Women isolation opening

17:00      Finals Men and Women

18:45     Award ceremony

2011 Bouldering World Cup Eindhoven Results from Climbing Narcissist

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Bouldering World Cup Circuit Visits The Netherlands This Weekend

Narc — Thu, 16 Jun 2011 07:46:21 +0000

The bouldering World Cup circuit gets back at it this weekend with a stop in Eindhoven, Netherlands. Joining Alex Johnson and Alex Puccio for Team USA will be Ian Dory and the newlyweds Courtney Sanders and Daniel Woods. As usual the event will be streamed live on IFSC.tv beginning at 9:00 am local time (3:00 am EDT). Here is the full schedule:

Friday, June 17 Qualifications
09:00 – 11:45 qualification WOMEN

14:30 – 18:30 qualification MEN
19:00 results

Saturday, June 18 (Semi-)Finals

11:00 – 13:10 semi-final WOMEN + MEN
13:40 results

17:30 presentation climbers

17:45 – 19:45 final MEN + WOMEN
20:00 award ceremony
20:15 end

Also of note with respect to the IFSC is the provisional schedule they posted for next year’s World Cup circuit. Of particular note is a lead World Cup scheduled for October 12-13 in Atlanta (presumably at the incredible Stone Summit) and a return for a 5th year at the Teva Mountain Games in early June. The final schedule will be released later this summer.

Bouldering World Cup Circuit Visits The Netherlands This Weekend from Climbing Narcissist

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2011 Teva Mountain Games: Vail Bouldering World Cup Final Results

Narc — Mon, 06 Jun 2011 13:25:10 +0000

The Vail Bouldering World Cup at the 2011 Teva Mountain Games has come and gone. For the first time in the 4 years the TMG has hosted this World Cup no Americans stood atop the podium at the end of the comp with Alex Puccio (2nd) and Angie Payne (6th) being the only Americans to even make it to finals. Last year’s winner for the men, Daniel Woods, finished in 11th place with Julian Bautista having the best showing for the American men finishing in 9th.

The comp was won in impressive fashion by a resurgent Kilian Fischhuber who flashed all 4 problems in finals after not even making finals the past two world cups while fellow Austrian Anna Stöhr finished all 4 problems on her way to victory. Here are the rest of the results:

2011 Bouldering World Cup – Vail, CO
Men’s Final Results	Women’s Final Results
Kilian Fischhuber AUT 4t4 4b4 Dmitry Sharafutdinov RUS 4t5 4b5 Jonas Baumann GER 2t4 4b6 Rei Sugimoto JPN 2t11 4b13 Guillaume Glairon-Mondet FRA 0t 4b9 Chris Webb-Parsons AUS 0t 3b14 USA Finishes 9. Julian Bautista 11. Daniel Woods 12. Austin Geiman 14. Zach Lerner 17. Ian Dory 19. Carlo Traversi 28. Dave Wetmore 29. Matt Wilder 33. Kyle Owen 37. Josh Larson 40. Ryan Sewell 44. Alex Johnson 46. Garrett Gregor Full Men’s Results	Anna Stöhr AUT 4t7 4b7 Alex Puccio USA 3t3 3b3 Melissa Le Neve FRA 3t8 4b9 Jain Kim KOR 2t3 2b2 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 2t4 2b2 Angie Payne USA 2t7 3b7 USA Finishes 7. Alex Johnson 9. Dana Riddle 12. Tiffany Hensley 13. Tyler Youngwerth 17. Chelsea Rude 19. Kasia Pietras 23. Francesca Metcalf T-25. Sarah Shaw 27. Portia Menlove 28. Courtney Sanders 31. Isabelle Faus T-32. Melissa Godowksi Full Women’s Results

Not sure what scores like 0t 4b9 mean? Check out this post where I tried my best to explain the World Cup scoring system.

Here are a few stories and media that have cropped up since things wrapped up on Saturday. I’ll continue to add to the list as events warrant:

I was able to watch the livestream of the women’s qualifying round and the beginning of a very laggy men’s qualifying round, but I was unable to watch any of the action on Saturday. If you tuned in to either the IFSC.tv feed or the Rock & Ice feed to watch semi-finals and finals I’d love to hear your feedback in the comments on how things went.

The Bouldering World Cup circuit takes a break for a couple of weeks now before reconvening in Eindhoven, Netherlands the weekend of June 17th.

2011 Teva Mountain Games: Vail Bouldering World Cup Final Results from Climbing Narcissist

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2011 Teva Mountain Games: Vail Bouldering World Cup Starts Today

Narc — Fri, 03 Jun 2011 12:30:47 +0000

The IFSC Bouldering World Cup at the 2011 Teva Mountain Games in Vail, CO begins this morning with proceedings kicking off live on IFSC.tv at 9:00 AM MDT. Joining the usual touring group of top international climbers will be a huge contingent of Americans including last year’s winner Daniel Woods. Here is the full list of Americans competing along with their position in the running order:

2011 Bouldering World Cup – Vail, CO
U.S. Women’s Team	U.S. Men’s Team
4. Alex Johnson 7. Alex Puccio 12. Francesca Metcalf 13. Angie Payne 17. Isabelle Faus 24. Tyler Youngwerth 25. Portia Menlove 26. Courtney Sanders 27. Kasia Pietras 28. Dana Riddle 31. Sarah Shaw 32. Melissa Godowski 34. Tiffany Hensley 36. Chelsea Rude Full Women’s Start List	14. Daniel Woods 21. Carlo Traversi 26. Zach Lerner 30. Josh Larson 33. Kyle Owen 35. Austin Geiman 36. Julian Bautista 38. Ryan Sewell 39. Dave Wetmore 41. Garrett Gregor 42. Alex David Johnson 43. Matt Wilder 45. Ian Dory Full Men’s Start List

Like I said, the event will be streamed live in its entirety (for the first time I believe) at IFSC.tv with things getting underway at 9:00 MDT this morning. Here is the full schedule:

Friday 3rd June 2011

9.00 am Female Qualification starts

2.00 pm Male Qualification starts

Saturday 4th June 2011

10.00 am Semi-Final starts

5.00 pm Finals starts

Rock & Ice will also be doing a broadcast during finals starting at 4:30 on Saturday afternoon so be sure to check that out as well.

2011 Teva Mountain Games: Vail Bouldering World Cup Starts Today from Climbing Narcissist

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