Climbing Narcissist » American Bouldering Series

2012 ABS 13 Youth Championship Highlights

Narc — Thu, 15 Mar 2012 01:56:39 +0000

2012 ABS 13 Youth Championship Highlights from Climbing Narcissist Get the ClimbingNarc iOS app in the App Store to enjoy all this site's content on your iPhone or iPad Related posts: 2012 ABS Nationals Wrap-Up 2009 World Youth Climbing Championship Results Registration Opens For 2012 ABS Nationals 2011 World Youth Championships Results Woods & Metcalf [...]

2012 ABS 13 Youth Championship Highlights from Climbing Narcissist

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2012 ABS Nationals Wrap-Up

Narc — Fri, 02 Mar 2012 12:22:05 +0000

It was about two weeks ago that I learned that last weekend’s ABS Nationals weren’t going to be broadcast online. Up to that point I hadn’t planned on going for a number of reasons, but that news gave me no choice but to spring into action. I quickly booked a flight¹, and last Saturday I made a power move out to Colorado Springs for an exhausting 20 hours of ABS Nationals fun. There’s a certain insanity involved in going through all that effort to watch other people climb fake rock climbs indoors, but I’d do it all over again next weekend if I could.

The comp itself lived up to all the expectations I had. Seeing many of the country’s² best climbers up close is always a treat and this comp was no exception. In general the problems were entertaining, and despite the two favorites winning, the comp was anyone’s game as the competitors climbed on the last problem³.

I’d be remiss if I didn’t express some disappointment in the apparent step back being taken this year with regard to the cancellation of the live stream. In my opinion last year’s ABS Nationals broadcast was far and away the best of the year. In addition to great climbing, the broadcast had insightful commentary, and it seemed like competitive climbing in the U.S. was really taking a step in the right direction. Unfortunately, this positive development was followed later in the year by the cancellation of the Summer OR comp and then the late notice this year of there being no live feed for ABS Nationals. Fortunately, Alex Johnson stepped up to provide a rudimentary live feed and I did my best to provide as many updates as I could, but a comp the caliber of ABS Nationals really deserves something better.

ClimbingNarc Coverage⁴

Athlete Reaction

Shauna Coxsey:

I left the American National Bouldering Championships truly inspired by both the men and the women competitors and the loud, enthusiastic crowd that kept us going though finals. I hope we put on a good show! I have made so many new friends and I hope to return to America to explore the endless rock it has to offer and maybe (if my body can handle it) attempt some more of their truly unique competitions.

Sean McColl:

It feels good to write, even though this is the 3rd or 4th revision. I started by being mad at myself, then realizing that it’s all part of the game. There are going to be competitions where I climb pretty well, and don’t make the next round. I have to keep my head up and look to the future. In order to succeed, you must first fail, and that drive is what I think about while I train.

Greg Padovani:

The comp itself was following a new format, as there have been many complaints about the Hot Holds system that is was used for the past three years and is main format for IFSC Bouldering Comps. USA Climbing came to a conclusion that for their comps the IFSC format did not differentiate scores well enough and believed that the scoring resulted in unfair placements. As a competitor I agree with USA Climbing about the clumping of scores but if the point of our Nationals is to determine the US Team, which will then go onward to compete at IFSC events, then we should be selecting based upon those that score best in the IFSC format. It only makes sense for us to test our athletes on the IFSC format because that will be what they will be scored against in the coming months.

Media Round Up

Here is a sampling of some of the visual media out there from the comp. If anyone knows of others just let me know and I’ll add them to the list.

Men’s Finals Highlights
Women’s Finals Highlights
Behind the scenes
UBC Pro Tour photo gallery
Huey Photography photo gallery
Alton Richardson photo gallery⁵
And thanks to Jackie Hueftle for filming and sharing pretty much the entirety of Finals:

Yes, at my own expense. Click an ad and buy something, why don’t you? ↩
And even some of the world’s ↩
With live scoring finally becoming a reality, the in-house experience was really exciting as it was pretty clear throughout where each competitor stood ↩
Big ups to Rock & Ice for being the only one of the climbing magazines to acknowledge my coverage in their recap ↩
Click through at your own risk. Most of the links in the gallery are broken and even if they weren’t this is pretty much the least user friendly way to display a gallery of pictures. ↩

2012 ABS Nationals Wrap-Up from Climbing Narcissist

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Behind The Scenes – ABS 13 National Championships

Narc — Fri, 02 Mar 2012 03:35:39 +0000

Behind The Scenes – ABS 13 National Championships from Climbing Narcissist Get the ClimbingNarc iOS app in the App Store to enjoy all this site's content on your iPhone or iPad Related posts: 2011 ABS 12 National Bouldering Championships Starts Friday, Streams Live Online Saturday 2011 ABS 12 National Bouldering Championships Final Results Live Blogging [...]

Behind The Scenes – ABS 13 National Championships from Climbing Narcissist

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2012 ABS National Championship Highlights – Mens Finals

Narc — Thu, 01 Mar 2012 18:06:32 +0000

2012 ABS National Championship Highlights – Mens Finals from Climbing Narcissist Get the ClimbingNarc iOS app in the App Store to enjoy all this site's content on your iPhone or iPad Related posts: Live Blogging Coverage Of 2012 ABS 13 National Bouldering Championships Semi-Finals 2012 ABS Nationals Wrap-Up Registration Opens For 2012 ABS Nationals 2012 [...]

2012 ABS National Championship Highlights – Mens Finals from Climbing Narcissist

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2012 ABS National Championship Highlights – Womens Finals

Narc — Wed, 29 Feb 2012 22:10:52 +0000

2012 ABS National Championship Highlights – Womens Finals from Climbing Narcissist Get the ClimbingNarc iOS app in the App Store to enjoy all this site's content on your iPhone or iPad Related posts: Live Blogging Coverage Of 2012 ABS 13 National Bouldering Championships Semi-Finals 2012 ABS Nationals Wrap-Up Registration Opens For 2012 ABS Nationals 2012 [...]

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Woods, Puccio Win At 2012 ABS 13 Nationals Bouldering Championships

Narc — Sun, 26 Feb 2012 05:29:27 +0000

Whew. What a finish. Again. Congrats to Daniel Woods and Alex Puccio for winning 2012 ABS Nationals in impressive fashion.

Puccio sealed the win by cruising the final problem and Woods was the only climber to top Men’s #3. Michael Bautista was the only male competitor to finish Men’s #4, however in the excitement of the send he failed to match hands on the finish hold. Either way Woods would have won, but a simple match would have put Bautista one spot higher on the podium. It was a great showing for him nonetheless.

Here are the final standings:

Men’s Final Results	Women’s Final Results
Daniel Woods Ethan Pringle Michael Bautista Carlo Traversi Jon Cardwell Austin Geiman	Alex Puccio Angie Payne Shauna Coxsey Lizzy Asher Alex Johnson Sasha DiGiulian Sierra Blair-Coyle

Thanks again to everyone who tuned in for the live blog. Hopefully everyone enjoyed the show. More to come but until then you can read the live blog archive.

Woods, Puccio Win At 2012 ABS 13 Nationals Bouldering Championships from Climbing Narcissist

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Live Blogging Coverage Of 2012 ABS 13 National Bouldering Championships Finals

Narc — Sun, 26 Feb 2012 02:12:58 +0000

Men’s Running Order

Carlo Traversi
Michael Bautista
Ethan Pringle
Jon Cardwell
Austin Geiman
Daniel Woods

Women’s Running Order

Alex Johnson
Lizzy Asher
Angie Payne
Sierra Blair-Coyle
Sasha DiGiulian
Shauna Coxsey
Alex Puccio

Live Blogging Coverage Of 2012 ABS 13 National Bouldering Championships Finals from Climbing Narcissist

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2012 ABS 13 National Bouldering Championships Semi-Final Results

Narc — Sat, 25 Feb 2012 23:44:30 +0000

Pretty good show for semi-finals. The men’s field was especially close as defending champ Sean McColl and defending U.S. Champion Alex Johnson both missed finals by the slimmest of margins. Check out the live blog for my attempt at a blow by blow account. Check back here at 8:15 MST for a live blog of FINALS! There will likely be some sort of rudimentary live feed too so don’t despair sports fans….

* indicates the climber qualified for finals – 7 women qualified because Shauna Coxsey is from the UK

**Update to correct a mistake. Chauncenia Cox was in 10th, not 23rd which pushes everyone else down a spot. My sincerest apologies for the error.

Men’s Preliminary Semi-Final Results	Women’s Preliminary Semi-Final Results
Daniel Woods* Austin Geiman* Jon Cardwell* Ethan Pringle* Michael Bautista* Carlo Traversi* Sean McColl Alex Johnson Kyle Owen Jimmy Webb Zach Lerner Garrett Gregor Eric Sethna Michael O’Rourke Josh Larson Josh Levin Rob D’Anastasio Matty Hong Matt Wilder Benjamin Parkin Eric Sanchez Dalan Faulkner Adam Markert	Alex Puccio* Shauna Coxsey* Sasha DiGiulian* Sierra Blair-Coyle* Angela Payne* Lizzy Asher* Alex Johnson* Tiffany Hensley Elise Sethna Chauncenia Cox Kasia Pietras Francesca Metcalf Chelsea Rude Delaney Miller Tyler Youngwerth Dana Riddle Cicada Jenerik Nina Williams Jesse Youngwerth Flannery Shay-Nemiorw Jacquelyn Wu Courtney Sanders Sera Bussse

2012 ABS 13 National Bouldering Championships Semi-Final Results from Climbing Narcissist

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Live Blogging Coverage Of 2012 ABS 13 National Bouldering Championships Semi-Finals

Narc — Sat, 25 Feb 2012 20:34:48 +0000

Men’s Semi-finals Running Order

Women’s Semi-finals Running Order

Semi-finals results

Live Blogging Coverage Of 2012 ABS 13 National Bouldering Championships Semi-Finals from Climbing Narcissist

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Registration Opens For 2012 ABS Nationals

Narc — Thu, 05 Jan 2012 13:15:25 +0000

Registration is now open for the 2012 edition of ABS Nationals.

This year’s comp will be held in Colorado, but rather than taking place in the usual spot of Boulder it will be held a couple of hours south on I-25 at the Colorado Springs Auditorium in Colorado Springs. The joint USA Climbing-UBC Pro Tour event will be held February 24-25 with a citizen’s comp on the 26th. If this year’s comp is anything like last year’s, which was won by Sean McColl and Alex Puccio, it should be well worth tuning in for.

Registration Opens For 2012 ABS Nationals from Climbing Narcissist

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