You do one route and you have a lot of time left in the day and you think, “Oh maybe we should have done two.” And eventually you do two with time left over and you say, “maybe we could do three…” and we did three and we didn’t have any time left over so we said, “we’re over it.”

More detail and pictures from Kelly Cordes on the big day here as well.

“You think it will be cool till it isn’t fun anymore” from Climbing Narcissist

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Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold spent Saturday romping up big walls in Yosemite.  The pair free climbed Freerider on El Cap (6:45 climbing), the South Face of Mt. Watkins (2:40 climbing) and the Regular Northwest Face on Half Dome (5 climbing) in just over 21 hours.  More at Climbing.com.  So…how was your weekend??

What Did You Do This Weekend? from Climbing Narcissist

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So, listen up Cubicle Pukes!! Put down your work, clear the room, put on some cool tunes, and come with me to the Valley of your dreams, in this, the first of many Reports to follow.

Yep, the El Cap Report is back.

El Cap Report Returns For Spring 2012 from Climbing Narcissist

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Back in March Hayden Kennedy did the FA of Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-) in Indian Creek, UT, and now courtesy of sponsor Patagonia we have this excellent video by Austin Siadak and Matt Van Biene of Kennedy climbing the route.

Hayden Kennedy Climbing Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-) from Climbing Narcissist

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There’s so much happening these days in the world of climbing that even I’m having a hard time keeping up…

News…

• Sweden’s Matilda Söderlund went on a tear in Spain where she onsighted a handful of hard 5.13′s in a relatively short time span.  Rock & Ice caught up with her to learn more.  Subsequent to this she also flashed Kale Borrroka (5.14a) in Siurana according to her 8a scorecard.
• In addition to her repeat of Era Vella (5.14d), over the past few weeks Sasha DiGiulian has done the 2nd ascent of Atonement (5.14a) at the Virgin River Gorge and flashed Zona Zero (5.13d) in Siurana.
• Andy Raether did the FA of Ancient Chinese Secret (5.14b) at Mt. Potosi, NV commenting on his 8a scorecard that it took him 6 months of work.
• Austria’s Johanna Ernst climbs her first 5.14c in Santa Linya
• James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini teamed up to do the first repeat of  Aria, a runout 10 pitch 5.13c on the island of Sardinia.
• Nice update from Dave MacLeod on his repeat of New Base Line (V14) in Magic Wood, Switzerland.
• Rob Pizem has done the FA of The Frank Zappa Appreciation Society which, at 5.13+, is likely the hardest route in Colorado’s Escalante Canyon.
• Silvia Vidal spends 32 consecutive days on the wall to establish a new route in Chile.
• God’s Own Stone (5.14a) in the Red River Gorge saw two more ascents this spring from the under-18 crowd when it was repeated by both 12-year-old Drew Ruana and 11-year-old Mirko Caballero.

…And Notes…

• Chris Sharma will be appearing at an event in Emeryville, CA on May 18th for a special fundraiser benefiting access threatened Castle Rock State Park.  More details on the event as well as how to buy tickets here.

• Review of the new Wolverine guide to Maple Canyon
• Interview with South African Arjan de Kock who recently did the 3rd ascent of The Big Island (V15) in Fontainebleau.
• Interesting discussion at B3Bouldering about women and the development of new climbing areas.
• Ely, Nevada looks pretty legit
• Speaking of looking legit, Jonathan Siegrist provides an update on his time spent in France’s Verdon Gorge.
• Great recap of a trip to the Grit by Michele Caminati

News & Notes – 5/9/2012 from Climbing Narcissist

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