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Bad Girls Club (5.14d) Repeated By Jon Cardwell from Climbing Narcissist

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To borrow a phrase from the fine folks over at Rock & Ice, Ryan Palo is a pretty regular dude.  He works for a living, he climbs, he gets injured, he recovers and he climbs some more.  It’s just that when he climbs, he tends to climb 5.14.  Not very regular dude of him.  It was especially not very regular dude of him when over the weekend he became the first local and probably the first person with a “real” job to climb Just Do It (5.14c) on Smith Rock’s iconic Monkey Face.

Palo has a write-up on his blog about the effort it took to complete a route of this difficulty, and despite how it looks when 15-year-old French kids do it, climbing hard 5.14 isn’t always that much fun:

 Some time ago I realized that striving to climb at your max actually isnt fun. In fact, it’s downright unpleasant. I can think of countless examples of friends beating themselves up on routes they can barely do. Where the period of frustration & setback eclipses the jubilation period. I was told these were the moments where we build character, stamina, willpower, etc. and that might be true. Im just not so sure it’s worth it.

DPM also caught up with Palo for this interview that is worth reading as well.

Regular Dude Climbs Just Do It (5.14c) from Climbing Narcissist

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Projecting a route like this requires all of your attention, and having to devote all of your attention to a route like this can get really tiring really fast. At some point, you just want to get it over with. Of course, afterward you feel a mix of relief and loss. Relief that you’re done and the epic is over, and loss that this magnificent line doesn’t require your presence anymore. But for me, I think I’ll have to take a nice long break from serious route projects for a little while after this. Like Randy Levitt said, “It’s like a limestone El Cap.” Obviously, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but it does sort of convey the amount of work required to complete a project of this caliber.

Pringle is no stranger to Jumbo Love, having tried it even before its FA back in 2008. You can see some footage of those attempts here.

Ethan Pringle On Jumbo Love from Climbing Narcissist

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A little over a year after she did her first 5.13d, Heather Robinson fired her first 5.14a when she did Mon Pote Assis at Nevada’s Mt. Potosi.  Commenting about the ascent on her 8a scorecard she had this to say:

Oh my goodness! This send was a dream come true. Thank you Chris for believing in me and the countless belays. Super power endurance route. First female ascent!

A very nicely done profile of Robinson, which includes footage of her on that 5.13d from last year, can be seen here.  Footage of Steve Lapen climbing Mon Pote Assis can be seen here.

Mon Pote Assis (5.14a) By Heather Robinson from Climbing Narcissist

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