Climbing Narcissist » Bouldering

Woods & Metcalf Repeat At 2012 Dark Horse Championships

Narc — Sat, 11 Feb 2012 15:52:49 +0000

With the 2012 edition of ABS Nationals fast approaching many of America’s top boulderers headed for the east coast last weekend to participate in the finale of the 2012 Dark Horse Series. In a repeat of last year’s comp, Daniel Woods and Francesca Metcalf prevailed over a pretty strong field.

2012 Dark Horse Championships – Metrorock – Everett, MA
Men’s Final Results	Women’s Final Results
Daniel Woods Rob D’Anastasio Carlo Traversi Alex D Johnson Andy Lamb	Francesca Metcalf Angie Payne Kasia Pietras Katie Lamb Nadya Vorotnikova

Pat Bagley posted a huge gallery of great images from the comp and there is the now standard LT11 highlight reel to recap the action. As a bonus, here’s Daniel Wood sealing the victory as he levitates his way up the final problem:

Woods & Metcalf Repeat At 2012 Dark Horse Championships from Climbing Narcissist

Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook

Jimmy Webb’s Climbed 99 Problems And The Island (V14) Was One

Narc — Thu, 09 Feb 2012 19:33:32 +0000

Ok. Horrible title. Forgive me.

Anyway, Jimmy Webb is about a week into his first trip to Font. Last week he managed that one day ascent of Kheops Assis (V14), and according to his 8a scorecard this week he managed a relatively quick repeat of Dave Graham’s The Island a once V15 but now maybe V14 at Coquibus Rumont. This latest ascent puts him at 99 problems V10 or harder in the past 12 months which is notable for being 99 more V10s or harder than I’ve done in my entire life¹.

Unless I can count that 1 problem that is V10 for some people but not V10 for other people. Then I’m only 98 behind! Yes! ↩

Jimmy Webb’s Climbed 99 Problems And The Island (V14) Was One from Climbing Narcissist

Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook

Alex Johnson Climbs Lethal Design (V12)

Narc — Tue, 07 Feb 2012 16:12:45 +0000

Alex Johnson gave the highballs in Bishop a break to check out the bouldering in Red Rock, Nevada where she repeated the V12 highball Lethal Design according to her 8a scorecard:

great support crew and tons of pads! long and crimpy. worked out all the moves quick and sent first burn.

Since the start of 2012 she has done some eight V10′s or harder across Yosemite, Bishop and Red Rock.

Update: Climbing.com caught up with Johnson to discuss the ascent

Alex Johnson Climbs Lethal Design (V12) from Climbing Narcissist

Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook

Low Gravity Week In Fontainebleau

Narc — Mon, 06 Feb 2012 16:54:49 +0000

Someone apparently flipped the low gravity switch last week in Fontainebleau…

Only a couple of days into his first visit to the Horse Pens 40 of France Font, Jimmy Webb wasted no time putting his other-worldly compression skills to work by making a 1 hour ascent of Khéops Assis (V14) according to his 8a scorecard.

Webb wasn’t the only climber to make a fast repeat of Khéops Assis last week as Sean McColl also managed a 1 day ascent of this boulder. In a sign of the times, his ascent was aided by the fact that he could watch footage of Paul Robinson trying the line while he was actually at the boulder:

I was happy to say that my flash go was very satisfying. I did the first 5 or so moves and fell exactly where I thought I might, from sloper to sloper. I didn’t even come close to doing the move, but it still felt good. I then figured I’d just try that one move until I got it. I spent the next 20 or so minutes trying to figure out that move but after 7-8 tries, I just couldn’t do it. After that many tries, I sat down and studied Paul’s movie again. I was just looking for where he put his right foot for the hard move. After watching the movie for probably 5 minutes, I suspected that he was putting his heel unusually close to his left foot right on the arête.

I saw how I assumed it would work, and put my shoes on pretty fast. The first time I tried the move with that magical heel, I did the top! I was psyched and as I was running down the backside of the boulder, I already knew that Kheops Assis was totally possible, and today!

Also enjoying the prime conditions in Font was Nalle Hukkataival. In a single day he did the FA of a recently cleaned project he’s calling Realist (V14) and he repeated Gecko Assis (V14).

Nalle Hukkataival on his new problem in Font called Realist (V14)

And lastly, Guillaume Glairon-Mondet repeated Satan i helvete bas (V14) according to UKClimbing.

So yeah, that was a pretty good week, no?

Low Gravity Week In Fontainebleau from Climbing Narcissist

Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook

Paul Robinson Punches His Ticket For Memory Is Parallax (V14)

Narc — Mon, 06 Feb 2012 12:01:03 +0000

Turns out Paul Robinson was next as he did the 5th ascent of Dave Graham’s Memory Is Parallax (V14) over the weekend. Paul Robinson Punches His Ticket For Memory Is Parallax (V14) from Climbing Narcissist Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook Related posts: The Dagger (V14) Repeated By Paul Robinson Paul Robinson Repeats Ninja Skills [...]

Paul Robinson Punches His Ticket For Memory Is Parallax (V14) from Climbing Narcissist

Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook

All Aboard The Train

Narc — Fri, 03 Feb 2012 12:14:41 +0000

Dave Graham’s Memory Is Parallax (V14) is the flavor of the month among the Frontrange’s elite boulderers as in the past few days both Matty Hong and Carlo Traversi have joined Daniel Woods in punching their tickets on the send train of this great new problem. Who’s next??

All Aboard The Train from Climbing Narcissist

Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook

Desperanza (V15) Repeated By Chris Webb Parsons

Narc — Wed, 01 Feb 2012 14:04:39 +0000

Chris Webb Parsons reports on his website that he has done the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Desperanza, the proposed V15 low start to Esperanza in Hueco Tanks:

Im not sure if the full grade of V15 is correct for this boulder, but being that is a tad harder than Esperanza maybe V15 is correct? I don’t know?

Alex Puccio is also in Hueco with Webb Parsons and she has done a few V10s and the V11 Sunshine.

Desperanza (V15) Repeated By Chris Webb Parsons from Climbing Narcissist

Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook

Another V14 For Daniel Woods Near Estes Park

Narc — Tue, 31 Jan 2012 12:57:24 +0000

It was another productive weekend at Nicky’s Boulders near Estes Park for Daniel Woods. Woods took to his Facebook page to describe what went down:

Yesterday, I was able to complete one of the coolest boulders I have done in a while at the Nicky’s boulders aka Elkland. The line goes out a 35 degree overhanging bulge. There are two near parallel rails leading to a flat hold at the 3/4 point. The style is wide compression moves between the two rails with involved heel hooking and edging. Once you arrive to the flat edge, you then set up for the giant iron cross move out right to a flat sidepull. From here the moves are not so hard, but you have a potential 25 foot fall onto rocks and logs and the rock quality becomes not so good. This just adds in an adrenaline packed topout.

Daniel Woods on Mind to Motion (V14)

Photo: Dariusz Kuczynski

The new problem is called Mind to Motion and Woods has suggested a grade of V14 for the line. As seems to be the norm these days for hard boulders put up in Colorado, Woods is sure to credit Dave Graham for the vision to see this line:

Dave Graham brushed it up, then showed me some photos and I was instantly psyched. His eye for bouldering is truly one of the greatest out there and I am priviledged to be able to learn from the master.

This ascent comes not long after Woods made a one day repeat of Graham’s Memory Is Parallax (V14) at Nicky’s Boulders and the FA of Mirror Reality (V14) in RMNP. ABS Nationals, the Hueco Rock Rodeo and several other trips loom in Woods’ near future so it will be interesting to follow his continued progress.

Another V14 For Daniel Woods Near Estes Park from Climbing Narcissist

Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook

Woods & Traversi Getting Things Done On The Frontrange

Narc — Wed, 25 Jan 2012 13:00:46 +0000

Over the weekend Daniel Woods was out near Estes Park at the “new” area Nicky’s Boulders to take a look at a few problems recently established by Dave Graham. Woods made quick work of Graham’s brilliant new V14 Memory Is Parallax, which you can see in this video. Jamie Emerson was on hand to record the aforementioned video and share his elitist totally reasonable perspective on the rest of the day’s activities.

Meanwhile, at the Flatirons in Boulder, Carlo Traversi was busy putting his legs of lamb to work on a longstanding project. The project, which is on the cover of the new Colorado Bouldering: Front Range guidebook, had rebuffed the efforts of Paul Robinson, Matt Wilder and others over the years. In the end it was Traversi who captured the problem’s first ascent, dubbing it The Altruist and suggesting a grade of V13:

Easier (V10) climbing leads to a very difficult and low percentage two move sequence at the lip, followed by a very spicy top out. 5 stars in my book.

Traversi posted the below picture on his Facebook page with video set to follow at some point:

Woods & Traversi Getting Things Done On The Frontrange from Climbing Narcissist

Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook

News & Notes – 1/17/2012

Narc — Tue, 17 Jan 2012 13:42:52 +0000

News…

Dai Koyamada adds a potential V15 called Shanbara near Toyota, Japan:

On 20th December 2011, I completed a new line in Toyota, Japan.
This problem is a sit down start version of Agartha, V14, and is called Shanbara.

Iker Pou is well known for repeating finger intensive testpieces like Action Directe (5.14d) and Demencia Senil (5.15a), so it’s not surprising to see Kairn reporting that Pou has done the FA of Nit de bruixes in Margalef, Spain suggesting a grade of 5.15a for the line.
Sasha DiGiulian has been in Hueco Tanks for the past couple of weeks where she’s done a couple of V10′s¹ and the V11 Sunshine according to her 8a scorecard.
In the past couple of weeks Jimmy Webb did the 3rd ascent of Daniel Woods’ Crook By The Book (V14) in Hueco and added two V13s near Chattanooga according to his 8a scorecard.
Isabelle Faus and Kasia Pietras were also in Hueco and both succeeded in repeating Sunshine (V11), with Pietras following that up with another V11 once she got home to Chattanooga.
Jorg Verhoeven and Katha Saurwein have been cruising around Bishop climbing several notable highballs including Ambrosia (V11) for Jorg and Golden Shower (V10) for Katha. Check out videos of them getting high off the deck here, here and here.
Alex Johnson has been busy on the higbhalls of Bishop this winter as well:

On this trip she has taken things to a new height by getting off the deck on some of the area’s taller problems. It impresses to hear of her ascents of Mesothelioma (v7), Golden Shower (v10) and The Ninth (v6), all at The Pollen Grains (a.k.a. Lydija Boulders) in a day.

Magnus Midtbø climbed two 5.14ds in Santa Linya, Spain as 2011 came to a close with repeats of Fuck The System and Open Your Mind Direct. Footage of the latter route can be seen here.

…and Notes…

Short interview with Camp 4 Collective’s Renan Ozturk who went from nearly dying in an avalanche last year to being part of the team that did the FA of Meru Shark’s Fin:

Yeah, it was a really intense year going from a complete state of helplessness after the big accident (two broken vertebrae in my neck, fractured skull, severed vertebral artery) to taking part in a very intense and demanding Himalayan expedition

Rock band The Killers come to the defense of Red Rock:

As members of the rock band The Killers, we don’t usually get involved in local politics. When we learned how Red Rock Canyon is being threatened, however, we wanted to do all we could to help. Timing is urgent.

Alex Honnold reports on the gym scene in Poland:

The contrast to US gyms was stark. Where a US gym is meant for fun, Polish gyms reminded me more of small training centers. Systems boards, steep bouldering caves, campus boards, and a few weights all crammed into a dark, extremely dusty little nook. Not really a place to play, but certainly a place to get extremely strong.

The 2012 Hueco Rock Rodeo fast approaches with this year’s event scheduled to take place March 3rd and 4th. This year’s event, which is sponsored by adidas, features clinics, slideshows and much more. Can anyone keep up with Daniel Woods?

Save the dates of September 27-30 for the 2012 Idaho Mountain Festival

She also flashed the problem 10-10 which is listed as V10 in the guidebook but I think everyone pretty much agrees that it is not V10 any longer. ↩

News & Notes – 1/17/2012 from Climbing Narcissist

Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook