I’ve spent way too much time spraying about myself lately and not nearly enough time spraying about the accomplishments of others. Here is my attempt to make up for this fact: Andre DeFelice has had a good summer of progression up the bouldering grades. Last week he repeated Circadian Rhythm (V13) at Poudre Canyon, CO [...]

News & Notes – 9/17/2007
Let’s get back to the spray… Paul Robinson made the 2nd ascent of Harry Roberton’s Both Sides of the Spectrum (V12). He also put a new V9 highball at Camp Dick which he called The Tragedy of Commons. Ty Landman made the 3rd ascent of Daniel Woods’s Aslan (V14) in Lower Chaos Canyon, RMNP. Andy [...]
News & Notes – 08/27/2007
As usual, I go away from a computer for a weekend and the sendtrain begins… The big news is that Paul Robinson has made the 3rd ascent of Jade (V15 for now) in RMNP. The day after the Jade send, Paul did the second ascent of Chris Schulte’s new V13 Child Stars SDS at Mt. [...]

Midweek News – 08/22/07
Here are a few interesting stories to check out Splitterchoss has a couple of cool tidbits on climbing at Rifle. First is a post about a feature story done about climbing at Rifle Mountain Park in the Glenwood Post Independent. Second is news about a new guidebook for Western Colorado climbing that will feature updated [...]

News & Notes – 8/20/2007
A scary story that seems to be coming to a positive resolution is that of Ryan Sewell contracting the Hantavirus virus while climbing in Rifle, CO. Unfortunately both Ryan and his friend Future Roden (who was camping with Ryan in Rifle) were to represent the US at the upcoming Youth World Championships in Ecaudor, however [...]
News & Notes – 8/6/2007
As usual, I go out of town and a ton of things happen: Last week Ty Landman visited Squamish and did what he normally does, which is climb hard problems. He did 1 V13 and a couple of V12′s including one flash. Throw in a handful of V10′s and V11′s and I think most people [...]
More News & Notes – 7/30/2007
I really dropped the ball this morning when I failed to mention a few more tidbits to check out: An updated version of the already phenomenal guidebook to sport climbing at the Red River Gorge is coming out September 28, 2007: The Red River Gorge in eastern Kentucky is one of the best rock-climbing areas [...]
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j: I watched some TV and climbed a couple V3's in th...
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pipo: This video brings new meanings to 'just a bunch o...
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Viktor: Jam-packed with tip after helpful tip to move you ...
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Greg: Bolted and climbed 4 new lines at an area I'm dev...
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EasyE: Did some deep water free solos at pictured rocks n...
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Stephen: Dominion RiverRock was awesome this weekend with J...
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colin: Yeah, I've heard those guys are pretty fit. I...
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Climb Like Chris Sharma: His Tips, Part 1
May 21, 2012
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What Did You Do This Weekend?
May 21, 2012
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Two 5.14d FA’s By Pirmin Bertle
May 21, 2012
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Ethan Pringle On Jumbo Love
May 18, 2012
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Campus Training With Flannery Shay-Nemirow
May 18, 2012
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Video Friday – 5/18/2012
May 18, 2012
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Trailer: DAVE
May 17, 2012
News & Notes
What Did You Do This Weekend?
Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold spent Saturday romping up big walls in Yosemite. The pair free climbed Freerider on El Cap (6:45 climbing), the South Face of Mt. Watkins (2:40 climbing) and the Regular Northwest Face on Half Dome (5 climbing) in just over 21 hours. More at Climbing.com. So…how was your weekend??
Ethan Pringle On Jumbo Love
Ethan Pringle is back at Mt. Clark, home to that one route first done by that one guy:
Projecting a route like this requires all of your attention, and having to devote all of your attention to a route like this can get really tiring really fast. At some point, you just want to get it over with. Of course, afterward you feel a mix of relief and loss. Relief that you’re done and the epic is over, and loss that this magnificent line doesn’t require your presence anymore. But for me, I think I’ll have to take a nice long break from serious route projects for a little while after this. Like Randy Levitt said, “It’s like a limestone El Cap.” Obviously, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but it does sort of convey the amount of work required to complete a project of this caliber.
Pringle is no stranger to Jumbo Love, having tried it even before its FA back in 2008. You can see some footage of those attempts here.
When In Doubt Pack It Out
I don’t know about you, but I always try my best to climb close to an actual bathroom. In case you don’t, the Access Fund has a nice refresher on what to do when nature calls.





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