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If Only We Could All Be Failures Like Adam Ondra

If Only We Could All Be Failures Like Adam Ondra

Posted January 26, 2012 at 7:07 am · Comments { 3 } ·

Adam Ondra offers brief glimpses that he might, in fact, be a human

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More From Honnold On Too Big To Flail

Posted January 19, 2012 at 7:15 am · Comments { 3 } ·

Alex Honnold talks with PlanetMountain about his new highball in Bishop called Too Big To Flail:

This might be the biggest line that I’ve seen at the Buttermilks but it’s hard to say for sure because there is so much rock out there. It’s definitely rare though to find such a high-quality line on such good rock.

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Defining Your Style

Defining Your Style

Posted January 18, 2012 at 9:00 am · Comments { 25 } ·

Carlo Traversi shares his thoughts on defining one’s climbing style in a recent interview for The Bouldering Book

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News & Notes – 1/17/2012

News & Notes – 1/17/2012

Posted January 17, 2012 at 7:42 am · Comments { 1 } · Photo: Jorg Verhoeven repeating the super highball Ambrosia in the Buttermilks

A few News & Notes items from Dai Koyamada, Iker Pou, Alex Johnson, Renan Ozturk and much more…

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Adam Ondra Interviewed By New Swedish Website

Posted January 9, 2012 at 6:23 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Adam Ondra in an October 2011 interview with new Swedish website Stockholmsklättring:

I think I’m quite efficient in climbing routes in a few attempts but I do think that if I spent 50 tries or more on one route I might be able to climb 9b+1 but certainly I wouldn’t be able to climb any harder. You have to bear in mind that when you are working on a route for a long time there is a mental barrier which you have to breach. Additionaly in reality you loose your power because your only trying a handfull of moves which means you are not training so much. You just keep climbing the very same moves and it could be true that you progress on these specific moves but in reality your shape is decreasing.

My question for Ondra:  When are you coming to America??

  1. 5.15c ↩
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Jeremy Zachariash On Going From 0 To 5.14 In Just A Few Years

Posted December 15, 2011 at 8:03 am · Comments { 5 } ·

DPM catches up with Jeremy Zachariash who progressed from not climbing to sending 5.14 in just four years:

My weaknesses are ice cream, sugar cookies with buttercream frosting, cinnabons, and chocolate mousse.  My strengths are climbing in any conditions and whenever I can.

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Adam Ondra Talks Gioia

Posted December 7, 2011 at 8:07 am · Comments { 8 } ·

PlanetMountain caught up with Adam Ondra yesterday after his repeat of Gioia to ask him the important questions like how’d it feel, what’s next and what he thinks about the grade:

Well every single move is at the very limit and so I do think it’s V16. I’d compare it in difficulty to Terranova. If you were to give this V15, then the bouldering grades wouldn’t make much sense anymore. You’d have to downgrade all the V14 and most of the V15′s as well.

Watch the video of Ondra climbing Gioia here.

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“I’m An Equal Opportunity Sheriff”

Posted November 8, 2011 at 8:49 am · Comments { 10 } ·

I’m a big fan of the interviews done on Boulder’s ClimbTalk Radio and thanks to the hard work of Dave McAllister we can all peruse transcripts of the shows.  The latest interview to be transcribed with B3Bouldering.com‘s Jamie Emerson touches on a wide variety of topics including Jamie’s work on a guidebook for RMNP and Mt. Evans, the evolution of his blog and his status as the unofficial Sheriff of the climbing community:

You know, if I question, “Did someone start there or do this,” they take it really personally.  Even though I think it’s important that we discuss these issues and I know a lot of times it’s my friends.  In fact, I called Dave Graham out for starting in an inappropriate place and he was not happy with me, at all.  We had to have a little talk about it.  He was like, “It’s really ridiculous that you’re calling me out.”  I’m like, “Hey, I’m an equal opportunity Sheriff.  I’ll write tickets for everyone.”  No one’s above being questioned, including myself.  Ironically, I feel like I get questioned more than anyone.

Check out the full interview here.

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The Key To Being World Cup Champion?

Posted October 20, 2011 at 11:00 am · Comments { 1 } ·

With Austrian climbers winning the recent sport climbing World Cup in Boulder as well as the overall Boulder World Cup title, you might be wondering what their secret to success is.  In an appearance on Boulder’s ClimbTalk Radio Show World Cup Champ Kilian Fischhuber let us in on this key tip:

I always climb my problems on my last try.  And I keep doing that.  It’s really cool.

Ok, maybe there’s more to being a World Cup champion than that, but check out the rest of the transcript of the interview for a fun conversation with Fischhuber, Anna Stöhr, Chuck Fryberger, Cody Roth and Jonathan Siegrist.

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