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Emily Harrington – Training For Your Goals

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The Heart-Stopping Climbs Of Alex Honnold

Another big, mainstream news piece on Alex Honnold, this time in a cover story for The New York Times Magazine.  Plenty of great insight into what makes Honnold tick, but I especially enjoyed this bit about Dean Potter:

Even Dean Potter, an openly spiritual man who describes free-soloing as part of a personal art form that includes base jumping, finds Honnold difficult to understand. “Alex is like Spock,” Potter told me. “I freak out at the top of solos and scream — like, super emotional. Then I’m wasted emotionally for months. Alex just does it and walks away and does another.”

Honnold doesn’t like this kind of talk; he insists that he worked hard to develop his self-control, and he grows prickly at any suggestion that he is unlike other people. “Before Dean solos something, he has to, like, slaughter a goat and fly with the ravens,” Honnold joked, as if Potter drew on magical aid to see him through danger. “I don’t want to slaughter a goat and fly with the ravens. I just want to climb.”

Funny response from Potter last night on Instagram:

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The Dawn Wall Interviews

Cool, interactive piece from Climbing on the Dawn Wall featuring interviews with both Kevin Jorgeson and Tommy Caldwell.  I particularly liked this quote from Tommy about why he is so relentlessly positive even in the face of a seemingly insurmountable challenge like the Dawn Wall:

It helps to have almost died a few times in your life! [Laughs.] That brings things into perspective! I think the hard things I’ve gone through have made me want to embrace every day to its absolute fullest. Those experiences have helped make me who I am today. But part of that is also being a part of a great community and having my own great role model in my dad. I mean, my dad is absurdly optimistic, and that’s contagious.

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Chris Sharma Talks About His Latest FA

PlanetMountain caught up with Chris Sharma on the heels of his recent FA of El Bon Combat:

It’s about 25m long, up some really interesting rock, a mix of sandstone and conglomerate that offers some really cool climbing, up this beautiful blue streak and tiny conglomerate pebbles. The moves are unique, completely different from what I was used to at Oliana, Margalef and Santa Linya. Imagine five 8A boulder problems stacked one on top of the other, with a few rests, but nothing great. The moves are very dynamic and yet at the same time extremely subtle, even though they’re right my style I found them to be really tricky.

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Audrey Sniezek: Work Hard, Climb Harder

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Interview With ABS Nationals Winner Mohammad Jafari

Nice interview with surprise ABS Nationals winner Mohammad Jafari Mahmodabadi by his home gym in the U.S., Earth Treks Climbing in Golden, CO:

For me, winning championships comes second. The thing that is most important to me is being able to travel and build relationships with climbers and people from all over the world.

Lost in all the controversy over the scoring system was the great performance turned in by Mohammad.  From the interview it sounds like he will be in the U.S. for a few years, so I think we can look forward to seeing him compete again.

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“I would like to take a look at it”

Adam Ondra, in an interview with Squamish Climbing Magazine about his thoughts on Yosemite and the Dawn Wall:

Yes, I feel ashamed that I have never been to Yosemite, and this climb is something that make my fingers sweaty! I don’t say this year, but in the future I would like to take a look at it.

Just a look?

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