Big news from the Access Fund:
After decades of work, the Access Fund received notice yesterday from National Park Service (NPS) that the agency has issued final national policy authorizing fixed anchors in wilderness. This policy—Director’s Order #41—affects many of the country’s most important climbing areas such as Yosemite, Grand Teton, Zion, Joshua Tree, and Canyonlands National Parks.
More bad access news, this time from Idaho:
On April 17, 2013, the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) in Idaho announced that all rock climbing activity will be banned on its 400-acre portion of the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area, citing the need to protect cultural resources.
…snip…
The BLM’s decision to ignore the same climbing management plan it helped create is totally unnecessary and unjustified. The Access Fund, Boise Climbers Alliance, Eastern Idaho Climbers Coalition, and the American Alpine Club are appealing BLM’s April 17th decision, but we need your help!
Bad news for anyone psyched about making the trip to Armenia to climb on the incredibly unique looking basalt columns that were on the cover of Rock & Ice a few years back:
By this statement we want to inform all the climbers around the world that climbing on any Basalt Columns of Armenia is banned, so they won’t make expenses and travel a long way in vain.
Great news for boulderers in my home state:
On January 11, 2013, the ERD determined that bouldering was feasible, and DNR will now allow bouldering at Rib Mountain State Park with crashpads and chalk. However roped climbing and fixed gear are still prohibited in the quarry.
Nice piece by Outside Online profling Liz and Rick Weber, owners of Muir Valley in the Red River Gorge:
With over 30,000 visitors last year, Muir Valley has become the most popular climbing destination in the eastern half of the country. For eight years, Rick and Liz Weber have shouldered the property and developmental expenses as their gift to the climbing community. But, now in their late 60s and facing declining health, the future of the valley is unclear.
If you’ve climbed in the Red River Gorge in the past 10 years the odds are pretty good you’ve climbed on the Weber’s property. The odds are also pretty good that you’ve climbed on their property at zero expense to yourself, so consider making a donation to Friends of Muir Valley if you want to see climbing continue on this incredible property into the future.
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