Climbing Narcissist

News & Notes 6/5/08

New & Notes on the Dosage 5 premier, videos from Wade David & Jamie Emerson and more...

Canopener Re-opened?

Word on the street has it that, thanks to a visiting Japanese climber, the classic V10 Canopener in Poudre Canyon, CO had its likely first ascent Saturday since a key start hold broke off.  Apparently without this key hold the grade of the problem might be bumped up a grade or two.  Sorry Sock Hands… Here [...]

News & Notes - 3/10/2008

Just an update on Beth Rodden’s new 5.14 trad route Meltdown. Big Up Productions was there filming her work on the route for the upcoming Dosage 5. Big Up shares their first hand takes on what went down including nuggets like, “After about 10 sessions of working it on top-rope Tommy was never [...]

News & Notes: Friday Links

Here are a few links for your Friday reading pleasures: A good post on the various ways to manage your rope(s) on multi-pitch routes Canada’s Tour de Bloc bouldering event in Fredericton will be broadcast live on the world wide web. This would be a very cool idea for comps like ABS Nationals no? (Dr. Topo) Cave [...]

Trice Repeated Twice

Last week I somewhat jokingly was speculating on who would be first to repeat Jim Holloway’s Trice at Flagstaff Mountain after 30 years.  Yesterday the answer ended up being Carlo Traversi, however Jamie Emerson was quick to follow suit, repeating Trice shortly after Carlo did.  They both decided to give it the grade of V12.  [...]

News & Notes - 11/7/07

I realize lately that I have been spending too much time blogging about myself and not enough time talking about all the action going down elsewhere so here goes nothing: During his recent work on Trice, Jamie Emerson made a slight deviation from the line of Trice and nabbed the 3rd ascent after Karn and Moon [...]

Who Will Be 1st To Be 2nd?

It has been roughly 30 years since Jim Holloway established Trice (aka Another Hollway Route) at Flagstaff Mountain. Jim Holloway on Trice Photo: Rob Candelaria via Peter Beal Now with cooler temps descending on Boulder, the race is on to downgrade Trice to B2. Jamie Emerson working Trice Photo: Chuffer Carlo Traversi working Trice Photo: Nick Weinstock Who will be [...]

Jamie Emerson Sends Automator (V13)

News & Notes!

I’ve spent way too much time spraying about myself lately and not nearly enough time spraying about the accomplishments of others. Here is my attempt to make up for this fact: Andre DeFelice has had a good summer of progression up the bouldering grades. Last week he repeated Circadian Rhythm (V13) at Poudre Canyon, [...]