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News & Notes

5. May 2008

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News & Notes

Not much Earth shattering news going down lately but here are a few things to check out from the past few weeks: Joe Kinder prepared nicely for his 2 month trip to Spain with his recent FA of Golden Direct (5.14c/d) at the Cathedral in Utah.  You can read more about it here, here and here.  [...]

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More On Dave MacLeod’s 5.14b Free Solo

21. March 2008

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Last week, Dave MacLeod made news when he reported that he had free soloed Darwin Dixit (5.14b) at Margalef, Spain.  As Gabor pointed out in the comments at the time, Kairn.com was raising a question about the grade of the route.  They seemed to be downplaying the effort by pointing out that Chris Sharma onsighted [...]

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Dave MacLeod Free Solos 5.14b in Spain

12. March 2008

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Dave MacLeod, best known for his difficult headpoints in Britain, recently free soloed Darwin Dixit (5.14b) in Margalef, Spain.  Unless someone can think of something harder, this is probably the hardest free solo (not a highball boulder) ever done.  I couldn’t find much information on the route as far as how tall it is or [...]

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More Hard Sport Routes in Spain

9. December 2007

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Thanks to James for compiling this news In more sport climbing news: Patxi Usobiaga: repeated La Rambla (9a+) on Nov 27, 2007 at Siurana, Spain. The route had its first ascent by Ramón Julian Puigblanque and had been repeated by Edu Marin, Chris Sharma, and Andreas Bindhammer. Many of the climbers used different beta, where at one point, [...]

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News & Notes

6. August 2007

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As usual, I go out of town and a ton of things happen: Last week Ty Landman visited Squamish and did what he normally does, which is climb hard problems. He did 1 V13 and a couple of V12’s including one flash. Throw in a handful of V10’s and V11’s and I think most [...]

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News & Notes

7. May 2007

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Andreas Bindhammer has made the 4th ascent of La Rambla Original (5.15a) at Siurana, Spain. Ethan Pringle and Issac Caldiero recently repeated Ben Moon’s V13 testpiece in Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT called Eclipse. You may now view video of Ethan doing the 2nd ascent. The footage of the FA is [...]

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News & Notes

26. February 2007

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Not much going on the past week, here are a few quick hitters: Ty Landman flashed the first ascent of Freak Brothers II (V10/11) at Boulder Canyon, CO. It was quickly repeated by his brother Jeff, Paul Robinson, Daniel Woods, and Jamie Emerson. Jamie has more about it on his site. Dave MacLeod of E11 [...]

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