Climbing Narcissist » Asides

Oz

Narc — Wed, 23 May 2012 15:25:46 +0000

This incredible photo essay by Keith Ladzinski from his trip to Australia last year with Dave Graham, Nalle Hukkataival and Ian Dory would make a great coffee table book don’t you think? (h/t Josh on twitter for the link).

Oz from Climbing Narcissist

Get the ClimbingNarc iOS app in the App Store to enjoy all this site's content on your iPhone or iPad

“You think it will be cool till it isn’t fun anymore”

Narc — Wed, 23 May 2012 13:14:51 +0000

The North Face catches up with their athlete Alex Honnold to find out a bit more about his and Tommy Caldwell’s big day in Yosemite, his plans to rope solo the same feat for his segment in the Reel Rock Tour and a casual mention of how he free soloed the West Face of El Cap. As to how the idea for the triple link-up came about:

You do one route and you have a lot of time left in the day and you think, “Oh maybe we should have done two.” And eventually you do two with time left over and you say, “maybe we could do three…” and we did three and we didn’t have any time left over so we said, “we’re over it.”

More detail and pictures from Kelly Cordes on the big day here as well.

“You think it will be cool till it isn’t fun anymore” from Climbing Narcissist

Get the ClimbingNarc iOS app in the App Store to enjoy all this site's content on your iPhone or iPad

Bad Girls Club (5.14d) Repeated By Jon Cardwell

Narc — Tue, 22 May 2012 22:03:25 +0000

According to his 8a scorecard, Jon Cardwell has repeated Bad Girls Club, a 5.14d in Rifle, CO first done last summer by Matty Hong.

Bad Girls Club (5.14d) Repeated By Jon Cardwell from Climbing Narcissist

Get the ClimbingNarc iOS app in the App Store to enjoy all this site's content on your iPhone or iPad

Ethan Pringle On Jumbo Love

Narc — Fri, 18 May 2012 19:24:47 +0000

Ethan Pringle is back at Mt. Clark, home to that one route first done by that one guy:

Projecting a route like this requires all of your attention, and having to devote all of your attention to a route like this can get really tiring really fast. At some point, you just want to get it over with. Of course, afterward you feel a mix of relief and loss. Relief that you’re done and the epic is over, and loss that this magnificent line doesn’t require your presence anymore. But for me, I think I’ll have to take a nice long break from serious route projects for a little while after this. Like Randy Levitt said, “It’s like a limestone El Cap.” Obviously, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but it does sort of convey the amount of work required to complete a project of this caliber.

Pringle is no stranger to Jumbo Love, having tried it even before its FA back in 2008. You can see some footage of those attempts here.

Ethan Pringle On Jumbo Love from Climbing Narcissist

Get the ClimbingNarc iOS app in the App Store to enjoy all this site's content on your iPhone or iPad

When In Doubt Pack It Out

Narc — Wed, 16 May 2012 21:06:43 +0000

I don’t know about you, but I always try my best to climb close to an actual bathroom. In case you don’t, the Access Fund has a nice refresher on what to do when nature calls.

When In Doubt Pack It Out from Climbing Narcissist

Get the ClimbingNarc iOS app in the App Store to enjoy all this site's content on your iPhone or iPad

Gravelle Repeats Echale (V14)

Narc — Wed, 16 May 2012 15:06:11 +0000

I guess it shouldn’t be surprising that with training like this that Canadian Yves Gravelle was able to climb his first V14 in Daniel Woods’ Echale in Clear Creek Canyon according to his 8a scorecard.

Gravelle Repeats Echale (V14) from Climbing Narcissist

Get the ClimbingNarc iOS app in the App Store to enjoy all this site's content on your iPhone or iPad

El Cap Report Returns For Spring 2012

Narc — Wed, 16 May 2012 01:37:33 +0000

So, listen up Cubicle Pukes!! Put down your work, clear the room, put on some cool tunes, and come with me to the Valley of your dreams, in this, the first of many Reports to follow.

Yep, the El Cap Report is back.

El Cap Report Returns For Spring 2012 from Climbing Narcissist

Get the ClimbingNarc iOS app in the App Store to enjoy all this site's content on your iPhone or iPad

Hayden Kennedy Climbing Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-)

Narc — Mon, 14 May 2012 12:10:11 +0000

Back in March Hayden Kennedy did the FA of Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-) in Indian Creek, UT, and now courtesy of sponsor Patagonia we have this excellent video by Austin Siadak and Matt Van Biene of Kennedy climbing the route.

Hayden Kennedy Climbing Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-) from Climbing Narcissist

Get the ClimbingNarc iOS app in the App Store to enjoy all this site's content on your iPhone or iPad

Ashima Hits The New York Times

Narc — Sun, 13 May 2012 15:54:14 +0000

Climbing phenom Ashima Hiraishi hits the front page of the New York Times’ Sports Section with an accompanying video featuring her on Crown Of Aragorn (V13).

Ashima Hits The New York Times from Climbing Narcissist

Get the ClimbingNarc iOS app in the App Store to enjoy all this site's content on your iPhone or iPad

Keep It Simple

Narc — Fri, 11 May 2012 12:17:14 +0000

Sonnie Trotter provides five tips for getting better at climbing rooted in the following premise:

The worlds most accomplished sport climber and boulderer Adam Ondra has recently completed his first one arm chin up according to Planet Mountain.com. This fact only reinforces what I (and dozens of other climbers and coaches) have said for years, the key to climbing hard is not in the arms at all. It’s mostly in the fingers and core.

Keep It Simple from Climbing Narcissist

Get the ClimbingNarc iOS app in the App Store to enjoy all this site's content on your iPhone or iPad