Climbing Narcissist » Asides

Jimmy Webb’s Climbed 99 Problems And The Island (V14) Was One

Narc — Thu, 09 Feb 2012 19:33:32 +0000

Ok. Horrible title. Forgive me.

Anyway, Jimmy Webb is about a week into his first trip to Font. Last week he managed that one day ascent of Kheops Assis (V14), and according to his 8a scorecard this week he managed a relatively quick repeat of Dave Graham’s The Island a once V15 but now maybe V14 at Coquibus Rumont. This latest ascent puts him at 99 problems V10 or harder in the past 12 months which is notable for being 99 more V10s or harder than I’ve done in my entire life¹.

Unless I can count that 1 problem that is V10 for some people but not V10 for other people. Then I’m only 98 behind! Yes! ↩

Jimmy Webb’s Climbed 99 Problems And The Island (V14) Was One from Climbing Narcissist

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Golden Direct Repeated By Ben Spannuth

Narc — Wed, 08 Feb 2012 22:10:14 +0000

Ben Spannuth, who recently started a blog at LT11, grabbed a rare repeat Golden Direct at the Cathedral in Southern Utah according to his 8a scorecard. Golden Direct was first done in 2008 by Joe Kinder at a suggested grade of 5.14d and was subsequently repeated by the likes of Chris Sharma and Jonathan Siegrist. Having climbed five other routes in the 5.14c/d range in the past 6 months, Spannuth felt Golden Direct warranted a grade of 5.14c.

Golden Direct Repeated By Ben Spannuth from Climbing Narcissist

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Alex Johnson Climbs Lethal Design (V12)

Narc — Tue, 07 Feb 2012 16:12:45 +0000

Alex Johnson gave the highballs in Bishop a break to check out the bouldering in Red Rock, Nevada where she repeated the V12 highball Lethal Design according to her 8a scorecard:

great support crew and tons of pads! long and crimpy. worked out all the moves quick and sent first burn.

Since the start of 2012 she has done some eight V10′s or harder across Yosemite, Bishop and Red Rock.

Update: Climbing.com caught up with Johnson to discuss the ascent

Alex Johnson Climbs Lethal Design (V12) from Climbing Narcissist

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Paul Robinson Punches His Ticket For Memory Is Parallax (V14)

Narc — Mon, 06 Feb 2012 12:01:03 +0000

Turns out Paul Robinson was next as he did the 5th ascent of Dave Graham’s Memory Is Parallax (V14) over the weekend. Paul Robinson Punches His Ticket For Memory Is Parallax (V14) from Climbing Narcissist Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook Related posts: The Dagger (V14) Repeated By Paul Robinson Paul Robinson Repeats Ninja Skills [...]

Paul Robinson Punches His Ticket For Memory Is Parallax (V14) from Climbing Narcissist

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All Aboard The Train

Narc — Fri, 03 Feb 2012 12:14:41 +0000

Dave Graham’s Memory Is Parallax (V14) is the flavor of the month among the Frontrange’s elite boulderers as in the past few days both Matty Hong and Carlo Traversi have joined Daniel Woods in punching their tickets on the send train of this great new problem. Who’s next??

All Aboard The Train from Climbing Narcissist

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DiGiulian Signs With Five Ten

Narc — Wed, 01 Feb 2012 21:08:37 +0000

Sasha DiGiulian ends her long relations with Mad Rock and signs with Five Ten:

I had a fabulous relationship with the people there [Mad Rock], but I came to the decision that in order to pursue my career, I had to find a shoe more compatible for my personal preferences. I found this shoe with Five Ten and I am very enthusiastic about this momentous change.

Given the year DiGiulian had and her relatioinship with Five Ten’s new parent company it’s hard to see this kind of move as a surprise.

DiGiulian Signs With Five Ten from Climbing Narcissist

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Desperanza (V15) Repeated By Chris Webb Parsons

Narc — Wed, 01 Feb 2012 14:04:39 +0000

Chris Webb Parsons reports on his website that he has done the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Desperanza, the proposed V15 low start to Esperanza in Hueco Tanks:

Im not sure if the full grade of V15 is correct for this boulder, but being that is a tad harder than Esperanza maybe V15 is correct? I don’t know?

Alex Puccio is also in Hueco with Webb Parsons and she has done a few V10s and the V11 Sunshine.

Desperanza (V15) Repeated By Chris Webb Parsons from Climbing Narcissist

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The Louder Than 11 Business Model

Narc — Mon, 30 Jan 2012 16:07:05 +0000

Free whether you like it or not:

We choose to give away our videos for free because the cost of distribution is zero and we want as many people to see it as possible. Free removes the cost barrier for our audience to see our video. And the cost barrier for our audience to share it with others. As our work improves and our audience grows it increases our visibility within the community and industry.

The Louder Than 11 Business Model from Climbing Narcissist

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Understanding Patagonia

Narc — Thu, 19 Jan 2012 16:55:35 +0000

The news from the other day aside, things happening in Patagonia are usually outside my purview. It’s not that I don’t respect what climbers do there, it’s more that I have a hard time identifying with what it must be like to climb there since I’ve never done anything like it. Posts like this one from Mikey Schaefer that combine a story about a new route on the south face of Poincenot with some incredible photos sure do help though.

Understanding Patagonia from Climbing Narcissist

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More From Honnold On Too Big To Flail

Narc — Thu, 19 Jan 2012 13:15:15 +0000

Alex Honnold talks with PlanetMountain about his new highball in Bishop called Too Big To Flail:

This might be the biggest line that I’ve seen at the Buttermilks but it’s hard to say for sure because there is so much rock out there. It’s definitely rare though to find such a high-quality line on such good rock.