- Chris Sharma’s Mind Control (5.14c) must have quite the line for it each day. 150 feet of climbing and sends in the past few weeks by Caroline Ciavaldini, James Pearson and Gabriele Moroni who comments on his 8a scorecard that “everybody knows it’s only 8c (5.14b)”. Ciavaldini’s repeat came on the heels of her fast repeat of Fish Eye (5.14b) which is also at Oliana.
- Alizée Dufraisse continues to work her way toward sending La Rambla (5.15a) by repeating El Rastro (5.14c) in Siurana, Spain. El Rastro climbs the same line as La Rambla to 3/4 height before diverging for the finish.
- Sasha DiGiulian is back in Spain where she’s added Kalea Borraka (5.14a) to her 8a scorecard. Something tells me this won’t be the last time we hear from her. DiGiulian was also interviewed by UKC where she confirmed her plan to go to school this fall:
I value education as equally important to my climbing career and I find that without pursuing education, I am leaving a big segment of my life behind. I have loved the past few months of just climbing but for me it is not fulfilling enough. While I know that it would be easiest for my climbing to put off school for longer, I do not want to. I feel capable of challenging myself to excel at both simultaneously and that is what I plan on attempting come this fall when I am in NYC for school.
- Jason Kehl finishes a highball project, Count To Six And Die, on West Mountain at Hueco Tanks
- Mike Foley repeats Silent Menace (5.14c) in Squamish
- Felipe Camargo opens Brazil’s first 5.14c at Serra do Cipó
- Guntram Jörg opens a V14 at Cerviá, Spain
- Mason Earle reports from a big wall expedition to Venezuela:
Kids With Guns- 5.13a, A3, 21 Pitches, took us a total of 15 climbing days to complete. We placed 6 bolts; four were for belays, and two as protection bolts. The route will almost certainly go free. We are not sure of the height of the wall, but it is in the neighborhood of 450m-500m. Our best estimate is that the wall overhangs a little over 300 feet, making our route one of the steepest in the world. I could not have picked three finer gentlemen to share this grand adventure with.
- Chris Sharma will appear at Mountainfilm in Telluride, CO May 25-28 of this year
- Don’t be afraid of the big loud monsters:
All of these problems highlight the need for climbers to be actively engaged in their local communities. It’s easy when the email comes out asking for you to leave a comment on a new management plan to think that someone else will do it, or to put it off until later, and then it never happens. But the fact is we have to show how strong our community is, now, or we could lose access for years to come.
Word has trickled out of the loss of Herb Conn, who with his wife, Jan, formed the original great pioneering partnership in the famed trad stronghold of the Needles of South Dakota, to cancer at age 91.
- Look who Mrs. Narc spotted in the latest issue of People:
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