Results from the Lead World Cup held over the weekend at Boulder, Colorado’s Movement Climbing & Fitness
Schubert, Ernst Win 2011 Lead Climbing World Cup In Boulder
- Akiyo Noguchi, Alex David Johnson, Alex Johnson, Ally Dorey, Amanda Sutton, Amelia Metcalf, Angela Eiter, Audrey Sniezek, Ben Hoberg, Ben Spannuth, Carlo Traversi, Charlotte Durif, Chelsea Rude, Delaney Miller, Emily Harrington, Ian Dory, Jakob Schubert, Johanna Ernst, Jorg Verhoeven, Josh Levin, Kevin McCartney, Maja Vidmar, Manuel Romain, Matt Hong, Michaela Kiersch, Mina Markovic, Momoka Oda, Noah Ridge, Owen Graham, Paige Claassen, Ramon Julian Puigblanque, Romain Desgranges, Ryan Sewell, Sachi Amma, Sasha DiGiulian, Sean McColl, Shane Puccio, Steve Hong, Tiffany Hensley
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Another Repeat Of The Wheel Of Life
According to his 8a scorecard Australia’s Ben Cossey has repeated Dai Koyamada’s The Wheel Of Life in the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians, Australia. Cossey registered the ascent as V141, and in response to posts on the Australian forum Chockstone he had this to say about the grade:
V16 represents the highest difficulty yet climbed by humans, even then these few problems are not confirmed. V15 takes the very best climbers a massive amount of effort to climb and yet there are not much more than a handful of confirmed ones in the world. The Wheel doesn’t really have any one move that you couldn’t find on, say, a V7. The hardest moves on it are in my opinion on Sleepy Hollow and yes, you have to bone down for sure because you’ve just climbed from the bottom but they aren’t crazy hard and certainly not in terms of V16 or even V15 hard.
He then goes on into more detail about the history of the problem, gives his opinion on kneebars and talks about the difficulty of the individual boulder problems that comprise Wheel Of Life.
- The problem was first opened at a suggested grade of V16 ↩
Video Friday – 10/7/2011
The most popular videos from the past week…
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2nd Ascent Of Twenty Four Karats (5.14c)
Adam Taylor has done the likely 2nd ascent of Jonathan Siegrist’s Twenty Four Karats (5.14c) in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge. While generally preferring to live life under the online climbing radar, Taylor has made news in previous years for other sends in the Red including his FA of Golden Ticket (5.14d) and his 2nd ascent of Pure Imagination (5.14d), another route first done by Jonathan Siegrist.
Lead World Cup This Weekend In Boulder
This weekend Boulder, CO, and more specifically Movement Climbing & Fitness, will play host to the first lead climbing World Cup held on American soil in over 20 years.
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2011 Triple Crown Bouldering Series: Hound Ears Results
The 2011 Triple Crown Bouldering series got underway last weekend at Hound Ears, NC
Swiss Bouldering News From Koyamada, Ondra & Woods
Despite some challenging conditions Dai Koyamanda, Adam Ondra and Daniel Woods have all been getting it done on the boulders of Switzerland of late.
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Narc: Meant to link to that originally but somehow I mes...
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DK: Here's Ethan's write-up about his attempts: h...
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Colton: Just wanted to say thanks for the sticker! Came in...
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Will: Dave is my hero. He should probably be your hero t...
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greg: I agree, Love NKR1's, crazy foot cut DW is off th...
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IanP: Good tip man. What an inspiring little movie....
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Peter: I think it's cool to hear about not just the very...
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What Did You Do This Weekend?
May 21, 2012
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Ethan Pringle On Jumbo Love
May 18, 2012
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Video Friday – 5/18/2012
May 18, 2012
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Mon Pote Assis (5.14a) By Heather Robinson
May 17, 2012
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When In Doubt Pack It Out
May 16, 2012
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Gravelle Repeats Echale (V14)
May 16, 2012
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El Cap Report Returns For Spring 2012
May 15, 2012
News & Notes
What Did You Do This Weekend?
Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold spent Saturday romping up big walls in Yosemite. The pair free climbed Freerider on El Cap, the South Face of Mt. Watkins and the Regular Northwest Face on Half Dome in just over 21 hours. So…how was your weekend??
Ethan Pringle On Jumbo Love
Ethan Pringle is back at Mt. Clark, home to that one route first done by that one guy:
Projecting a route like this requires all of your attention, and having to devote all of your attention to a route like this can get really tiring really fast. At some point, you just want to get it over with. Of course, afterward you feel a mix of relief and loss. Relief that you’re done and the epic is over, and loss that this magnificent line doesn’t require your presence anymore. But for me, I think I’ll have to take a nice long break from serious route projects for a little while after this. Like Randy Levitt said, “It’s like a limestone El Cap.” Obviously, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but it does sort of convey the amount of work required to complete a project of this caliber.
Pringle is no stranger to Jumbo Love, having tried it even before its FA back in 2008. You can see some footage of those attempts here.
When In Doubt Pack It Out
I don’t know about you, but I always try my best to climb close to an actual bathroom. In case you don’t, the Access Fund has a nice refresher on what to do when nature calls.





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