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News & Notes – 10/12/2011

The Not Worth It Boulders
While the discovery and development of new boulders in Wyoming and elsewhere has gotten a lot of attention of late, it’s instructive to remember that many times the quest for new rock and new problems doesn’t always work out like we hope:
Honestly, while I would never like to return to the Not Worth It Boulders, it was totally worth going up there the first time to spend some time with friends. It has helped me to truly appreciate all of the hard work and vision needed for the people who have developed the climbing areas that I get to visit. I have spent many hours drooling over guide books wishing that I could have been the first person to climb some of the routes, but now I realize that I am pretty lucky to have all of the hard work done for me.
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Interview With Mayan Smith-Gobat After Freeing Salathé Wall
An interview with New Zealand’s Mayan Smith-Gobat after she freed the Salathé Wall on El Capitan
Schubert, Ernst Win 2011 Lead Climbing World Cup In Boulder
Results from the Lead World Cup held over the weekend at Boulder, Colorado’s Movement Climbing & Fitness
- Akiyo Noguchi, Alex David Johnson, Alex Johnson, Ally Dorey, Amanda Sutton, Amelia Metcalf, Angela Eiter, Audrey Sniezek, Ben Hoberg, Ben Spannuth, Carlo Traversi, Charlotte Durif, Chelsea Rude, Delaney Miller, Emily Harrington, Ian Dory, Jakob Schubert, Johanna Ernst, Jorg Verhoeven, Josh Levin, Kevin McCartney, Maja Vidmar, Manuel Romain, Matt Hong, Michaela Kiersch, Mina Markovic, Momoka Oda, Noah Ridge, Owen Graham, Paige Claassen, Ramon Julian Puigblanque, Romain Desgranges, Ryan Sewell, Sachi Amma, Sasha DiGiulian, Sean McColl, Shane Puccio, Steve Hong, Tiffany Hensley
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Another Repeat Of The Wheel Of Life
According to his 8a scorecard Australia’s Ben Cossey has repeated Dai Koyamada’s The Wheel Of Life in the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians, Australia. Cossey registered the ascent as V141, and in response to posts on the Australian forum Chockstone he had this to say about the grade:
V16 represents the highest difficulty yet climbed by humans, even then these few problems are not confirmed. V15 takes the very best climbers a massive amount of effort to climb and yet there are not much more than a handful of confirmed ones in the world. The Wheel doesn’t really have any one move that you couldn’t find on, say, a V7. The hardest moves on it are in my opinion on Sleepy Hollow and yes, you have to bone down for sure because you’ve just climbed from the bottom but they aren’t crazy hard and certainly not in terms of V16 or even V15 hard.
He then goes on into more detail about the history of the problem, gives his opinion on kneebars and talks about the difficulty of the individual boulder problems that comprise Wheel Of Life.
- The problem was first opened at a suggested grade of V16 ↩
Video Friday – 10/7/2011
The most popular videos from the past week…
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2nd Ascent Of Twenty Four Karats (5.14c)
Adam Taylor has done the likely 2nd ascent of Jonathan Siegrist’s Twenty Four Karats (5.14c) in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge. While generally preferring to live life under the online climbing radar, Taylor has made news in previous years for other sends in the Red including his FA of Golden Ticket (5.14d) and his 2nd ascent of Pure Imagination (5.14d), another route first done by Jonathan Siegrist.
Lead World Cup This Weekend In Boulder
This weekend Boulder, CO, and more specifically Movement Climbing & Fitness, will play host to the first lead climbing World Cup held on American soil in over 20 years.
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2011 Triple Crown Bouldering Series: Hound Ears Results
The 2011 Triple Crown Bouldering series got underway last weekend at Hound Ears, NC
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Hayden Miller: I think one thing to consider is that at places li...
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Joe: Good example of the USA way, I go where I want and...
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Ramiel: Oh no, I totally agree that Maestri putting bolts ...
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Djshutthehellup: talking smack on the internet as if you're an aut...
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a-train: That should be keep "our" mountains clean and be...
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a-train: Good job boys! People who want the bolts there c...
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Spro1: How did it take 40 years before someone finally ha...
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Video Friday – 1/27/2012
January 27, 2012
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Kruk & Kennedy Weigh In On Cerro Torre Controversy
January 26, 2012
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If Only We Could All Be Failures Like Adam Ondra
January 26, 2012
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Woods & Traversi Getting Things Done On The Frontrange
January 25, 2012
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The Plot Thickens On Cerro Torre
January 24, 2012
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Deep North: A Trip To The Arrigetch Peaks With Caldwell & Kennedy
January 23, 2012
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Video Friday – 1/20/2012
January 20, 2012
News & Notes
Understanding Patagonia
The news from the other day aside, things happening in Patagonia are usually outside my purview. It’s not that I don’t respect what climbers do there, it’s more that I have a hard time identifying with what it must be like to climb there since I’ve never done anything like it. Posts like this one from Mikey Schaefer that combine a story about a new route on the south face of Poincenot with some incredible photos sure do help though.
0 CommentsMore From Honnold On Too Big To Flail
Alex Honnold talks with PlanetMountain about his new highball in Bishop called Too Big To Flail:
3 CommentsThis might be the biggest line that I’ve seen at the Buttermilks but it’s hard to say for sure because there is so much rock out there. It’s definitely rare though to find such a high-quality line on such good rock.
Kennedy & Kruk Climb Compressor Route By “Fair Means”
A lot of sites, including Alpinist, have picked up on the update Colin Haley posted on his Facebook wall indicating that American Hayden Kennedy and Canadian Jason Kruk pulled off the long-awaited “fair-means” ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre’s Southeast Ridge in Patagonia. The line was infamously bolted using a gas-powered compressor drill by Cesare Maestri during the line’s first ascent in 1970, and this is the first time someone has successfully climbed the line without the use of this bolt ladder. No word on how they managed to pull this off without a camera crew and a slew of extra bolts to aid said camera crew. Developing…
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