I would generally have more to say on a Video Friday such as today but I’m currently doing this: Hopefully things are looking this good wherever you’re climbing this weekend, and here are a few videos to get you ready:
Video Friday – 10/28/2011
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5.14b FA At Smith By Ryan Palo
Ryan Palo reports on his blog about Sure Shot (5.14b), a FA he did last weekend at Smith Rock that takes Pierre Bollinger’s Shoot’m Up (5.14b) to a more difficult finish.

5.14 Trad By Yuji Hirayama During Visit To Italy
PlanetMountain has a report from Yuji Hirayama about a recent visit to Italy that included a second try ascent of the trad line Greenspit (5.14-).
What’s Your Scene?
Find out how you can win a copy of Chuck Fryberger’s latest movie, The Scene
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2011 Yank-N-Yard
Ingenuity, creativity, a $4,000 cash purse and a star studded cast of boulderers come together in Albuquerque, NM. A report from from the 15th annual Yank-N-yard on Yale at Stone Age Climbing Gym OCT 14-15, 2011.

Potential V15 At Guanella Pass By Dave Graham
Dave Graham adds yet another hard boulder to Colorado, this time at Guanella Pass
Video Friday – 10/21/2011
The 2011 Petzl Roc Trip and Video Friday videos…
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5.14b In Rifle By Emily Harrington
The historic season of sending in Rifle continues as Climbing reports that Emily Harrington repeated Joe Kinder’s Waka Flocka (5.14b), her first of the grade in Rifle.
Update - More from Harrington on her blog:
I learned alot from climbing on Waka Flocka. I learned how to climb more powerfully, to try harder, and to have patience. Like Chris said, every route is a process, and even the mental aspects don’t come easily. Most importantly though, I realized through this experience how important climbing is to me. I went through a phase a few years ago where I wasn’t sure if climbing was my true passion, or if I’d just gone down that path subconsciously because I didn’t know any different. It took several years to realize how much I care about this sport and the lifestyle that goes along with it. I am fortunate to have this life, and I wouldn’t want it any different.

The Key To Being World Cup Champion?
With Austrian climbers winning the recent sport climbing World Cup in Boulder as well as the overall Boulder World Cup title, you might be wondering what their secret to success is. In an appearance on Boulder’s ClimbTalk Radio Show World Cup Champ Kilian Fischhuber let us in on this key tip:
I always climb my problems on my last try. And I keep doing that. It’s really cool.
Ok, maybe there’s more to being a World Cup champion than that, but check out the rest of the transcript of the interview for a fun conversation with Fischhuber, Anna Stöhr, Chuck Fryberger, Cody Roth and Jonathan Siegrist.
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Hayden Miller: I think one thing to consider is that at places li...
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Joe: Good example of the USA way, I go where I want and...
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Ramiel: Oh no, I totally agree that Maestri putting bolts ...
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Djshutthehellup: talking smack on the internet as if you're an aut...
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a-train: That should be keep "our" mountains clean and be...
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a-train: Good job boys! People who want the bolts there c...
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Spro1: How did it take 40 years before someone finally ha...
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Video Friday – 1/27/2012
January 27, 2012
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Kruk & Kennedy Weigh In On Cerro Torre Controversy
January 26, 2012
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If Only We Could All Be Failures Like Adam Ondra
January 26, 2012
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Woods & Traversi Getting Things Done On The Frontrange
January 25, 2012
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The Plot Thickens On Cerro Torre
January 24, 2012
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Deep North: A Trip To The Arrigetch Peaks With Caldwell & Kennedy
January 23, 2012
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Video Friday – 1/20/2012
January 20, 2012
News & Notes
Understanding Patagonia
The news from the other day aside, things happening in Patagonia are usually outside my purview. It’s not that I don’t respect what climbers do there, it’s more that I have a hard time identifying with what it must be like to climb there since I’ve never done anything like it. Posts like this one from Mikey Schaefer that combine a story about a new route on the south face of Poincenot with some incredible photos sure do help though.
0 CommentsMore From Honnold On Too Big To Flail
Alex Honnold talks with PlanetMountain about his new highball in Bishop called Too Big To Flail:
3 CommentsThis might be the biggest line that I’ve seen at the Buttermilks but it’s hard to say for sure because there is so much rock out there. It’s definitely rare though to find such a high-quality line on such good rock.
Kennedy & Kruk Climb Compressor Route By “Fair Means”
A lot of sites, including Alpinist, have picked up on the update Colin Haley posted on his Facebook wall indicating that American Hayden Kennedy and Canadian Jason Kruk pulled off the long-awaited “fair-means” ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre’s Southeast Ridge in Patagonia. The line was infamously bolted using a gas-powered compressor drill by Cesare Maestri during the line’s first ascent in 1970, and this is the first time someone has successfully climbed the line without the use of this bolt ladder. No word on how they managed to pull this off without a camera crew and a slew of extra bolts to aid said camera crew. Developing…
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