A final update from Adam Ondra’s most recent trip to Rocklands, South Africa
Final Words From Adam Ondra On His Rocklands Trip

Nick Duttle Repeats Alpine 5.14
DPM reports on Nick Duttle doing the 4th ascent of Tommy Caldwell’s Sarchasm (5.14) located high in RMNP, CO on the Ship’s Prow near Longs Peak:
After breaking a few holds during his efforts at what he calls, “the first fat guy ascent,” Nick felt the line warranted the 5.14b grade. He also noted that it took him longer to figure out the crux on Sarchasm than it did for him to figure out some V14 boulder problems.
Video Friday – 9/9/2011
The psyche is returning, the Nor’easter is fast approaching and Video Friday videos…
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Hard New Route At “Next Level Something” Crag By Jorg Verhoeven
Jorg Verhoeven blogs about his recent efforts in the amazing cave in Flatanger, Norway that yielded a potential 5.14d called Nordic Flower with room for much, much more:
I must say, I never seen anything like this place before. The Americans would come up with a ‘Next Level something’, but all I can think of is the next level of astonishment…
Another Day At The Office For Adam Ondra & Sasha DiGiulian
Another day at the office yields 5.15 and V15 FAs for Adam Ondra and a 5.14a onsight for Sasha DiGiulian

Wheel Of Life Repeated By James Kassay
About two years after he climbed the epic Hollow Mountain Cave link-up Sleepy Rave, James Kassay managed to send the epic Hollow Mountain Cave link-up Wheel Of Life which adds a V9 on the front end of the aforementioned Sleepy Rave. It could be argued that Wheel Of Life is more of a route than a boulder problem (just check out the 12 minute video Ethan Pringle climbing the line), but Kassay registered his ascent as V16 on his 8a scorecard and commented that he’s now trying a “direct” version of the problem.
Update: Kassay updated his blog with some interesting thoughts on the ascent including why it may have taken him longer than some would have thought to put together the full Wheel Of Life:
Call me stubborn, crazy or out right stupid if you must but climbing the full length of the cave wasn’t just a matter of getting from one end to the other the easiest possible way. Ethan was confused as to why I didn’t want to use the “easier beta” of putting on knee pads and milking the knee bar rests that are otherwise impossible to use…
Ultimately I set myself a personal goal and that was the way I was going to do it.
Notable Repeats By Daniel Woods In Austria
Daniel Woods ticks off two hard Bernd Zangerl problems in the mountains of Silvretta, Austria

Lucifer (5.14c) Repeated (Again) By Adam Taylor
In a post summarizing what sounded like a pretty miserable Labor Day weekend weather-wise at the Red River Gorge, the folks at the Team Saucisson blog casually dropped the fact that low key local Adam Taylor repeated Lucifer (5.14c). Taylor had previously done many of the Red’s other hard routes like Pure Imagination (5.14d) and his route Golden Ticket (5.14d).
Update: Well, I jumped the gun a bit as Taylor was simply repeating Lucifer again, not for the first time. Thanks to Eddie for helping to set me straight.

Bad Girls Club (5.14d) Repeated By Jonathan Siegrist
Not long after its FA by Matty Hong, Jonathan Siegrist has, according to my spies, done the 2nd ascent of Bad Girls Club (5.14d) in Rifle, CO. More details to come, I’m sure, on Siegrists’ excellent blog.
Update: As expected, Siegrist has posted about the send which came on his 8th try:
3 rests, nearly a hundred moves and 17 bolts later, I was clipping chains. Very pleased. First and foremost, Joey Kinder deserves a shout out – he put in tons of effort on this thing, cleaning it up, equipping it and giving it love. (sorry I doubted you man! this is a RAD addition, and a worthy Colorado test-piece). Secondly, Matty Hong – a really impressive effort… Matty has become a true king of this style, having done almost every hard route in the canyon, psyched for you man!
Update 2: Siegrist also sent The Crew (5.14c) and talks about both sends in this interview with Rock & Ice
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Hayden Miller: I think one thing to consider is that at places li...
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Joe: Good example of the USA way, I go where I want and...
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Ramiel: Oh no, I totally agree that Maestri putting bolts ...
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Video Friday – 1/27/2012
January 27, 2012
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Kruk & Kennedy Weigh In On Cerro Torre Controversy
January 26, 2012
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If Only We Could All Be Failures Like Adam Ondra
January 26, 2012
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Woods & Traversi Getting Things Done On The Frontrange
January 25, 2012
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The Plot Thickens On Cerro Torre
January 24, 2012
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Deep North: A Trip To The Arrigetch Peaks With Caldwell & Kennedy
January 23, 2012
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Video Friday – 1/20/2012
January 20, 2012
News & Notes
Understanding Patagonia
The news from the other day aside, things happening in Patagonia are usually outside my purview. It’s not that I don’t respect what climbers do there, it’s more that I have a hard time identifying with what it must be like to climb there since I’ve never done anything like it. Posts like this one from Mikey Schaefer that combine a story about a new route on the south face of Poincenot with some incredible photos sure do help though.
0 CommentsMore From Honnold On Too Big To Flail
Alex Honnold talks with PlanetMountain about his new highball in Bishop called Too Big To Flail:
3 CommentsThis might be the biggest line that I’ve seen at the Buttermilks but it’s hard to say for sure because there is so much rock out there. It’s definitely rare though to find such a high-quality line on such good rock.
Kennedy & Kruk Climb Compressor Route By “Fair Means”
A lot of sites, including Alpinist, have picked up on the update Colin Haley posted on his Facebook wall indicating that American Hayden Kennedy and Canadian Jason Kruk pulled off the long-awaited “fair-means” ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre’s Southeast Ridge in Patagonia. The line was infamously bolted using a gas-powered compressor drill by Cesare Maestri during the line’s first ascent in 1970, and this is the first time someone has successfully climbed the line without the use of this bolt ladder. No word on how they managed to pull this off without a camera crew and a slew of extra bolts to aid said camera crew. Developing…
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