Earlier this year I announced a partnership with PCI that was met with decidedly mixed reviews. While that partnership is still developing (perhaps a bit slower than expected), PCI is continuing to evolve and better define their mission. In this guest post from PCI founder Kevin Jorgeson he shares a bit more on PCI’s mission as well as their developing Pro Clinic series.
PCI Pro Clinic Series
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Adam Ondra Repeats Monkey Wedding (V15)
Fresh off overall gold at the World Championships and quickly redpointing two 5.14d’s, Adam Ondra has taken his talents to Rocklands, South Africa

Honnold Repeats Cobra Crack
Via his 8a.nu scorecard comes word that Alex Honnold has repeated the 5.14 trad route Cobra Crack in Squamish, BC. First done in the summer of 2006 by Sonnie Trotter, Cobra Crack has seen repeats from the likes of Nicolas Favresse, Ethan Pringle, Matt Segal, Yuji Hirahama and Will Stanhope among others.
Video Friday – 8/12/2011
Thoughts on the climbing video market and a few of this week’s most popular videos
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Reviews Of The Schengen Files, The Swiss Account, Better Than Chocolate & Midwest Unknown
A chance for you to win something for free and a few thoughts on The Schengen Files, The Swiss Account, Better Than Chocolate and Midwest Unknown just as soon as the cops are done swiping my credit card…
Rocklands Bouldering Draws Attention Of Reuters
This little sport we call bouldering draws more mainstream coverage
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First 5.14 For The Other Alex Johnson
According to his Facebook Page Alex “Socks” Johnson has done his first 5.14 with a send of Welcome To Tijuana (5.14b) in Rodellar, Spain.
Help Save Red Rock Canyon
Development threatens to change the experience at Nevada’s Red Rock Canyon forever
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Productive Day At Maple Canyon For Sasha DiGiulian
Playing hooky from the Outdoor Retailer Trade Show going on in Salt Lake City for a day Sasha DiGiulian made the trip down to the cobbled overhangs of Maple Canyon where, according to her 8a scorecard, she onsighted (or not, see the comments) Toxic Turkey (5.13c) and redpointed Wyoming Sheep Shagger (5.13d) and Millenium (5.14a). More on her blog.
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Hayden Miller: I think one thing to consider is that at places li...
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Joe: Good example of the USA way, I go where I want and...
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Ramiel: Oh no, I totally agree that Maestri putting bolts ...
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Djshutthehellup: talking smack on the internet as if you're an aut...
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a-train: That should be keep "our" mountains clean and be...
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a-train: Good job boys! People who want the bolts there c...
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Spro1: How did it take 40 years before someone finally ha...
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Video Friday – 1/27/2012
January 27, 2012
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Kruk & Kennedy Weigh In On Cerro Torre Controversy
January 26, 2012
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If Only We Could All Be Failures Like Adam Ondra
January 26, 2012
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Woods & Traversi Getting Things Done On The Frontrange
January 25, 2012
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The Plot Thickens On Cerro Torre
January 24, 2012
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Deep North: A Trip To The Arrigetch Peaks With Caldwell & Kennedy
January 23, 2012
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Video Friday – 1/20/2012
January 20, 2012
News & Notes
Understanding Patagonia
The news from the other day aside, things happening in Patagonia are usually outside my purview. It’s not that I don’t respect what climbers do there, it’s more that I have a hard time identifying with what it must be like to climb there since I’ve never done anything like it. Posts like this one from Mikey Schaefer that combine a story about a new route on the south face of Poincenot with some incredible photos sure do help though.
0 CommentsMore From Honnold On Too Big To Flail
Alex Honnold talks with PlanetMountain about his new highball in Bishop called Too Big To Flail:
3 CommentsThis might be the biggest line that I’ve seen at the Buttermilks but it’s hard to say for sure because there is so much rock out there. It’s definitely rare though to find such a high-quality line on such good rock.
Kennedy & Kruk Climb Compressor Route By “Fair Means”
A lot of sites, including Alpinist, have picked up on the update Colin Haley posted on his Facebook wall indicating that American Hayden Kennedy and Canadian Jason Kruk pulled off the long-awaited “fair-means” ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre’s Southeast Ridge in Patagonia. The line was infamously bolted using a gas-powered compressor drill by Cesare Maestri during the line’s first ascent in 1970, and this is the first time someone has successfully climbed the line without the use of this bolt ladder. No word on how they managed to pull this off without a camera crew and a slew of extra bolts to aid said camera crew. Developing…
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