A brief update on what I’ve been up to and some Video Friday videos…
Video Friday – 7/29/2011
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Numerous Hard FAs Near Cape Town By Paul Robinson
Paul Robinson releases a climbing movie and climbs a slew of hard new boulder problems near Cape Town, South Africa

Difficult Wyoming Crack Climb Sees 2nd Ascent
Black Diamond has a nice report with pictures from Andrew Burr about J.P “Pee Wee” Oullete’s 2nd ascent of Home On The Range, a difficult crack in Vedauwoo, WY first climbed by Justin Edl back in 2009.

DiGiulian, Ondra Take Overall Gold At World Championships In Arco, Italy
Adam Ondra and Sasha DiGiulian highlight the results from the 2011 Climbing World Championships that took place in Arco, Italy
3rd Ascent Of Jaws II (5.15a) By Mike Foley
Mike Foley nabs the 3rd ascent of the Rumney, NH testpiece Jaws II (5.15a)
Video Friday – 7/22/2011
Some videos for your Friday…
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American Youth Climbing Well
DPM seems to have the youth beat covered pretty well these days with stories about 14 year-old Stefan Lavender climbing 5.14a in Ten Sleep, the Raboutou kids (and parents) climbing strong in France, 10 year-old Mirko Caballero climbing 5.13 at the Jailhouse and 10 year-old Cameron Hörst onsighting 5.13a at Shelf Road.
CCH Alien Cams Are Coming Back
After a year and a half of negotiating with CCH Alien creator David Wagoneer’s widow, Fixe-Faders will bring Aliens back to market later this year
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Tim Kemple Explores When Being “Inspired” Goes Too Far
Tim Kemple explores when being “inspired” goes too far:
We’ve all heard the saying that ‘imitation is the sincerest sign of flattery’. But a question that keeps coming more frequently than I’d like to admit: at what point does it go from being inspired to outright copying someone else’s work?
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Hayden Miller: I think one thing to consider is that at places li...
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Joe: Good example of the USA way, I go where I want and...
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Ramiel: Oh no, I totally agree that Maestri putting bolts ...
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Djshutthehellup: talking smack on the internet as if you're an aut...
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a-train: That should be keep "our" mountains clean and be...
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a-train: Good job boys! People who want the bolts there c...
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Spro1: How did it take 40 years before someone finally ha...
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Video Friday – 1/27/2012
January 27, 2012
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Kruk & Kennedy Weigh In On Cerro Torre Controversy
January 26, 2012
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If Only We Could All Be Failures Like Adam Ondra
January 26, 2012
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Woods & Traversi Getting Things Done On The Frontrange
January 25, 2012
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The Plot Thickens On Cerro Torre
January 24, 2012
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Deep North: A Trip To The Arrigetch Peaks With Caldwell & Kennedy
January 23, 2012
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Video Friday – 1/20/2012
January 20, 2012
News & Notes
Understanding Patagonia
The news from the other day aside, things happening in Patagonia are usually outside my purview. It’s not that I don’t respect what climbers do there, it’s more that I have a hard time identifying with what it must be like to climb there since I’ve never done anything like it. Posts like this one from Mikey Schaefer that combine a story about a new route on the south face of Poincenot with some incredible photos sure do help though.
0 CommentsMore From Honnold On Too Big To Flail
Alex Honnold talks with PlanetMountain about his new highball in Bishop called Too Big To Flail:
3 CommentsThis might be the biggest line that I’ve seen at the Buttermilks but it’s hard to say for sure because there is so much rock out there. It’s definitely rare though to find such a high-quality line on such good rock.
Kennedy & Kruk Climb Compressor Route By “Fair Means”
A lot of sites, including Alpinist, have picked up on the update Colin Haley posted on his Facebook wall indicating that American Hayden Kennedy and Canadian Jason Kruk pulled off the long-awaited “fair-means” ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre’s Southeast Ridge in Patagonia. The line was infamously bolted using a gas-powered compressor drill by Cesare Maestri during the line’s first ascent in 1970, and this is the first time someone has successfully climbed the line without the use of this bolt ladder. No word on how they managed to pull this off without a camera crew and a slew of extra bolts to aid said camera crew. Developing…
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