A well-known coach in the youth climbing community is arrested after being accused of sexually assaulting a member of his team
Well-Known Youth Climbing Coach Mike Lyons Arrested On Sexual Assault Charges
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Longhope Direct: 5.14ish Trad FA By Dave MacLeod
After years of sporadic work Dave MacLeod has finished off the first free ascent of Longhope Direct on St. John’s Head in Orkney, Scotland

Phil Schaal Climbing Well In Rocklands
27Crags reports that Phil Schaal is down in South Africa where he’s managed to send many of the well-known classics including a flash of Green Mamba (V12) and a send of Fred Nicole’s Amandla (V14) among other problems.
Productive Trip To Washington For Jonathan Siegrist
Jonathan Siegrist leaves behind two 5.14 FAs after a successful trip to Washington

Alex Honnold On His Solo Of The Phoenix
A few weeks back Alex Honnold, who was in the Valley for a shoot with 60 Minutes, soloed the iconic route The Phoenix (5.13a) in Yosemite, CA. Planetmountain caught up with both Honnold and first ascenionist Ray Jardine to get their thoughts.
Results From 2011 UBC Pro Tour EMS Pro & Bouldering World Cup Barcelona
Results from this past weekend’s UBC EMS Pro in Central Park and the Bouldering World Cup in Barcelona, Spain
- Akiyo Noguchi, Alex Johnson, Alex Puccio, Alexey Rubtsov, Angie Payne, Anna Stöhr, Courtney Sanders, Dana Riddle, Daniel Woods, Dmitry Sharafutdinov, Francesca Metcalf, Guillaume Glairon-Mondet, Ian Dory, Jon Glassberg, Kilian Fischhuber, Lizzy Asher, Lukas Ennemoser, Matt Hong, Mauricio Huerta, Melissa Le Nevé, Mike Feinberg, Mina Markovic, Rob D'Anastasio, Rustam Gelamanov, Sasha DiGiulian, Tiffany Hensley, Tsukuru Hori, Ty Landman, Vasya Vorotnikov
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2011 UBC Pro Tour Eastern Mountain Sports Pro Finals Live Blog
Results from the semi-finals round of the UBC Pro Tour Eastern Mountain Sports Pro as well as a live blog of Finals!
2011 UBC Pro Tour Eastern Mountain Sports Pro Gets Underway, Finals Stream Live Saturday
The UBC Pro Tour’s Pete Ward kicks off their Eastern Mountain Sports Pro with a guest post about the road to comp climbing in the Big Apple. Be sure to check back for a live stream and live blog of Finals Saturday afternoon.
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2011 Bouldering World Cup Eindhoven Results
Results from the most recent bouldering World Cup in Eindhoven, Netherlands that saw an American male find his way onto the podium
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Hayden Miller: I think one thing to consider is that at places li...
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Joe: Good example of the USA way, I go where I want and...
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Ramiel: Oh no, I totally agree that Maestri putting bolts ...
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Djshutthehellup: talking smack on the internet as if you're an aut...
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a-train: That should be keep "our" mountains clean and be...
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a-train: Good job boys! People who want the bolts there c...
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Spro1: How did it take 40 years before someone finally ha...
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Video Friday – 1/27/2012
January 27, 2012
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Kruk & Kennedy Weigh In On Cerro Torre Controversy
January 26, 2012
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If Only We Could All Be Failures Like Adam Ondra
January 26, 2012
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Woods & Traversi Getting Things Done On The Frontrange
January 25, 2012
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The Plot Thickens On Cerro Torre
January 24, 2012
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Deep North: A Trip To The Arrigetch Peaks With Caldwell & Kennedy
January 23, 2012
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Video Friday – 1/20/2012
January 20, 2012
News & Notes
Understanding Patagonia
The news from the other day aside, things happening in Patagonia are usually outside my purview. It’s not that I don’t respect what climbers do there, it’s more that I have a hard time identifying with what it must be like to climb there since I’ve never done anything like it. Posts like this one from Mikey Schaefer that combine a story about a new route on the south face of Poincenot with some incredible photos sure do help though.
0 CommentsMore From Honnold On Too Big To Flail
Alex Honnold talks with PlanetMountain about his new highball in Bishop called Too Big To Flail:
3 CommentsThis might be the biggest line that I’ve seen at the Buttermilks but it’s hard to say for sure because there is so much rock out there. It’s definitely rare though to find such a high-quality line on such good rock.
Kennedy & Kruk Climb Compressor Route By “Fair Means”
A lot of sites, including Alpinist, have picked up on the update Colin Haley posted on his Facebook wall indicating that American Hayden Kennedy and Canadian Jason Kruk pulled off the long-awaited “fair-means” ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre’s Southeast Ridge in Patagonia. The line was infamously bolted using a gas-powered compressor drill by Cesare Maestri during the line’s first ascent in 1970, and this is the first time someone has successfully climbed the line without the use of this bolt ladder. No word on how they managed to pull this off without a camera crew and a slew of extra bolts to aid said camera crew. Developing…
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