A well-known coach in the youth climbing community is arrested after being accused of sexually assaulting a member of his team
Well-Known Youth Climbing Coach Mike Lyons Arrested On Sexual Assault Charges
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Longhope Direct: 5.14ish Trad FA By Dave MacLeod
After years of sporadic work Dave MacLeod has finished off the first free ascent of Longhope Direct on St. John’s Head in Orkney, Scotland

Phil Schaal Climbing Well In Rocklands
27Crags reports that Phil Schaal is down in South Africa where he’s managed to send many of the well-known classics including a flash of Green Mamba (V12) and a send of Fred Nicole’s Amandla (V14) among other problems.
Productive Trip To Washington For Jonathan Siegrist
Jonathan Siegrist leaves behind two 5.14 FAs after a successful trip to Washington

Alex Honnold On His Solo Of The Phoenix
A few weeks back Alex Honnold, who was in the Valley for a shoot with 60 Minutes, soloed the iconic route The Phoenix (5.13a) in Yosemite, CA. Planetmountain caught up with both Honnold and first ascenionist Ray Jardine to get their thoughts.
Results From 2011 UBC Pro Tour EMS Pro & Bouldering World Cup Barcelona
Results from this past weekend’s UBC EMS Pro in Central Park and the Bouldering World Cup in Barcelona, Spain
- Akiyo Noguchi, Alex Johnson, Alex Puccio, Alexey Rubtsov, Angie Payne, Anna Stöhr, Courtney Sanders, Dana Riddle, Daniel Woods, Dmitry Sharafutdinov, Francesca Metcalf, Guillaume Glairon-Mondet, Ian Dory, Jon Glassberg, Kilian Fischhuber, Lizzy Asher, Lukas Ennemoser, Matt Hong, Mauricio Huerta, Melissa Le Nevé, Mike Feinberg, Mina Markovic, Rob D'Anastasio, Rustam Gelamanov, Sasha DiGiulian, Tiffany Hensley, Tsukuru Hori, Ty Landman, Vasya Vorotnikov
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2011 UBC Pro Tour Eastern Mountain Sports Pro Finals Live Blog
Results from the semi-finals round of the UBC Pro Tour Eastern Mountain Sports Pro as well as a live blog of Finals!
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IanP: Can't wait for this movie. It's going to be real...
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RT: Narc, you have to come out here for the event and ...
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Andrew Krueger: I see. I know Hayden Kennedy can lead boldly, ons...
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Hugo Watt: I have a few times but I'm primarily just a lowly...
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Andrew Krueger: Do you climb on gear?...
- New Climbing shoes 2011 – Climbing shoes | Climbing Guru » Blog Archive: [...] SportivaBreaking in a New Pair of Climbing S...
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Hugo Watt: Not necessarily, but there is difference in the su...
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UBC Pro Tour Heading To The Northwest
May 24, 2012
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Oz
May 23, 2012
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“You think it will be cool till it isn’t fun anymore”
May 23, 2012
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Bad Girls Club (5.14d) Repeated By Jon Cardwell
May 22, 2012
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Regular Dude Climbs Just Do It (5.14c)
May 22, 2012
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What Did You Do This Weekend?
May 21, 2012
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Ethan Pringle On Jumbo Love
May 18, 2012
News & Notes
Oz
This incredible photo essay by Keith Ladzinski from his trip to Australia last year with Dave Graham, Nalle Hukkataival and Ian Dory would make a great coffee table book don’t you think? (h/t Josh on twitter for the link).
“You think it will be cool till it isn’t fun anymore”
The North Face catches up with their athlete Alex Honnold to find out a bit more about his and Tommy Caldwell’s big day in Yosemite, his plans to rope solo the same feat for his segment in the Reel Rock Tour and a casual mention of how he free soloed the West Face of El Cap. As to how the idea for the triple link-up came about:
You do one route and you have a lot of time left in the day and you think, “Oh maybe we should have done two.” And eventually you do two with time left over and you say, “maybe we could do three…” and we did three and we didn’t have any time left over so we said, “we’re over it.”
More detail and pictures from Kelly Cordes on the big day here as well.
Bad Girls Club (5.14d) Repeated By Jon Cardwell
According to his 8a scorecard, Jon Cardwell has repeated Bad Girls Club, a 5.14d in Rifle, CO first done last summer by Matty Hong.





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