Ian Dory writes on UGB that he did Esperanza (v14) in Hueco Tanks after “more then [sic] 100 goes”. In addition, he spent some time putting up a few new problems which you can see here.
Carlo Traversi Repeats The Game (V15?) In Boulder Canyon
A who’s who of Boulder’s climbing elite gathered under Boulder Canyon’s Cob Rock today to have a go at Daniel Woods’ The Game, a previously unrepeated proposed V16. After the dust settled it was Carlo Traversi who came out with the problem’s 2nd ascent.
Video Friday – 3/11/2011
Bourbon talk and excellent videos from Arkansas, the UK, Yosemite and Rifle
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Another Hard New Boulder In Hueco By Daniel Woods
Daniel Woods capped off a productive season of new problems in Hueco Tanks yesterday with the FA of The House Of Doom (V13) according to his 8a scorecard. In the scorecard comments he credits Dave Graham for his “amazing vision” to help figure out this line of “near horizontal roof climbing on mini pinches” on [...]

PlanetMountain Interviews Ondra Regarding 5.14c Onsights
Following up on this week’s news about Adam Ondra onsighting multiple 5.14cs is this interview he did discussing these ascents with PlanetMountain.com. Among the factors that contributed to his success: luck.
Another Pair Of 5.14c Onsights For Adam Ondra In Spain?!
Adam Ondra actually improves on his recent “world record” of 2 5.14cs in 2 days by doing 2 in one day!
Notable Sends In Bishop & Hueco Tanks
A few notable sends by Enzo Oddo, Jason Kehl and Dave Graham
The Story Of Two Worlds (V15) 2nd Ascent By Paul Robinson
Paul Robinson grabs the 2nd ascent of Dave Graham’s The Story Of Two Worlds in Cresciano, Switzerland. UPDATED with pictures.
5.14 Onsight Spree By Adam Ondra In Spain
Adam Ondra builds on his recent 5.15b FA by onsighting 2 5.14cs in Extauri, Spain
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Hayden Miller: I think one thing to consider is that at places li...
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Joe: Good example of the USA way, I go where I want and...
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Ramiel: Oh no, I totally agree that Maestri putting bolts ...
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a-train: That should be keep "our" mountains clean and be...
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Video Friday – 1/27/2012
January 27, 2012
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Kruk & Kennedy Weigh In On Cerro Torre Controversy
January 26, 2012
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If Only We Could All Be Failures Like Adam Ondra
January 26, 2012
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Woods & Traversi Getting Things Done On The Frontrange
January 25, 2012
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The Plot Thickens On Cerro Torre
January 24, 2012
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Deep North: A Trip To The Arrigetch Peaks With Caldwell & Kennedy
January 23, 2012
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Video Friday – 1/20/2012
January 20, 2012
News & Notes
Understanding Patagonia
The news from the other day aside, things happening in Patagonia are usually outside my purview. It’s not that I don’t respect what climbers do there, it’s more that I have a hard time identifying with what it must be like to climb there since I’ve never done anything like it. Posts like this one from Mikey Schaefer that combine a story about a new route on the south face of Poincenot with some incredible photos sure do help though.
0 CommentsMore From Honnold On Too Big To Flail
Alex Honnold talks with PlanetMountain about his new highball in Bishop called Too Big To Flail:
3 CommentsThis might be the biggest line that I’ve seen at the Buttermilks but it’s hard to say for sure because there is so much rock out there. It’s definitely rare though to find such a high-quality line on such good rock.
Kennedy & Kruk Climb Compressor Route By “Fair Means”
A lot of sites, including Alpinist, have picked up on the update Colin Haley posted on his Facebook wall indicating that American Hayden Kennedy and Canadian Jason Kruk pulled off the long-awaited “fair-means” ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre’s Southeast Ridge in Patagonia. The line was infamously bolted using a gas-powered compressor drill by Cesare Maestri during the line’s first ascent in 1970, and this is the first time someone has successfully climbed the line without the use of this bolt ladder. No word on how they managed to pull this off without a camera crew and a slew of extra bolts to aid said camera crew. Developing…
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