DPM reports that Dan Beall added his name to the growing list of climbers who repeated the RMNP, CO testpiece Jade. Originally given V15 after its FA by Daniel Woods back in 2007, the grade on Jade seems to be settling in the V14 range after several repeats this summer. Check out DPM’s interview with Beall for his take on the problem.
News & Notes – 9/8/2010
News & Notes from Adam Ondra, Brent Perkins, Phil Schaal, Black Diamond and MUCH more…
2010 Reel Rock Film Tour Trailer
Trailer for the 2010 Reel Rock Film Tour, coming soon to a city near you
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Daniel Woods & Dave Graham Add Potential V15 At Lincoln Lake
With the addition of Warrior Up (V15) at Mt. Evans’ Lincoln Lake, Daniel Woods & Dave Graham have teamed up to establish a contender for one of the hardest boulder problems in the U.S.
Getaway Day
It’s “getaway day”, the day before a long weekend filled with climbing……or not
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Sharma 5.14 Repeated In China
The Black Diamond Journal reports that Liuyong Bang did the 2nd ascent of Spicy Noodle in Yangshuo, China. Spicy Noodle was first done by Chris Sharma last year at 5.14b however a key hold broke raising the grade to 5.14c.
Popular Posts & Videos For August 2010
After a quiet month of July, which mainly stemmed from my 2 week vacation, ClimbingNarc.com was firing on all cylinders during the month of August. Here is what you were reading and watching the most during the last 31 days…
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Multiple 5.14s In Rifle By Joe Kinder
Joe Kinder reports on his blog that he did the FA of Waka Flocka, a possible 5.14b he bolted in Rifle, CO after relocating to the Western Slope last month. Kinder also repeated Livin’ The Dream, a proposed 5.14b extension to Living In Fear (5.13d) first done a couple of weeks ago by Jonathan Siegrist.
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Hayden Miller: I think one thing to consider is that at places li...
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Joe: Good example of the USA way, I go where I want and...
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Ramiel: Oh no, I totally agree that Maestri putting bolts ...
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Djshutthehellup: talking smack on the internet as if you're an aut...
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a-train: That should be keep "our" mountains clean and be...
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a-train: Good job boys! People who want the bolts there c...
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Spro1: How did it take 40 years before someone finally ha...
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Video Friday – 1/27/2012
January 27, 2012
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Kruk & Kennedy Weigh In On Cerro Torre Controversy
January 26, 2012
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If Only We Could All Be Failures Like Adam Ondra
January 26, 2012
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Woods & Traversi Getting Things Done On The Frontrange
January 25, 2012
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The Plot Thickens On Cerro Torre
January 24, 2012
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Deep North: A Trip To The Arrigetch Peaks With Caldwell & Kennedy
January 23, 2012
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Video Friday – 1/20/2012
January 20, 2012
News & Notes
Understanding Patagonia
The news from the other day aside, things happening in Patagonia are usually outside my purview. It’s not that I don’t respect what climbers do there, it’s more that I have a hard time identifying with what it must be like to climb there since I’ve never done anything like it. Posts like this one from Mikey Schaefer that combine a story about a new route on the south face of Poincenot with some incredible photos sure do help though.
0 CommentsMore From Honnold On Too Big To Flail
Alex Honnold talks with PlanetMountain about his new highball in Bishop called Too Big To Flail:
3 CommentsThis might be the biggest line that I’ve seen at the Buttermilks but it’s hard to say for sure because there is so much rock out there. It’s definitely rare though to find such a high-quality line on such good rock.
Kennedy & Kruk Climb Compressor Route By “Fair Means”
A lot of sites, including Alpinist, have picked up on the update Colin Haley posted on his Facebook wall indicating that American Hayden Kennedy and Canadian Jason Kruk pulled off the long-awaited “fair-means” ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre’s Southeast Ridge in Patagonia. The line was infamously bolted using a gas-powered compressor drill by Cesare Maestri during the line’s first ascent in 1970, and this is the first time someone has successfully climbed the line without the use of this bolt ladder. No word on how they managed to pull this off without a camera crew and a slew of extra bolts to aid said camera crew. Developing…
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