Last year the aptly named Denver Bouldering Club opened its doors to members offering 24 hours access to 1,500+ square feet of dedicated bouldering terrain. Since I’ve been seeing examples of these co-op type gyms crop up all around the country lately I caught up with the DBC’s Lee Payne to learn a bit more about what they have going on at the DBC.
Interview With The Denver Bouldering Club
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5.15b By Magnus Midtbø In Rodellar
A rare repeat of a proposed 5.15b by Norway’s Magnus Midtbø
You Either Have Adam Ondra’s Pinchers Or You’re Screwed
It’s Friday again which is never a bad thing. Today’s edition of Friday is especially notable because it’s the last Friday of August which means September Sendtember and October are fast approaching. This is good. Fall is my favorite time of the year because the cooling temps and amazing colors we experience here in Wisconsin [...]

Another Hard Boulder At Lincoln Lake
Daniel Woods took down another hard project at Mt. Evans, CO’s Lincoln Lake the other day with his FA of the so-called “Big Wall” project. Woods registered the new boulder on his 8a scorecard as Let The Right One In at a proposed grade of V14 calling it “one of the best I have done”.

PuntX (5.14d) Repeated By Sean McColl
Sean McColl recently repeated PuntX (5.14d) in Gorges du Loup, France, and you can read the excellent recap of his efforts on the route in his latest blog entry.

More On Angie Payne’s Automator FFA
One last post on Angie Payne’s FFA of The Automator (V13) in RMNP,CO. You can read some of her thoughts in this write-up she did for the Five Ten Blog and there is also this nice interview she did with the Outside Magazine Blog.
First Ascent: The Series DVD Box Set Now Available
As promised back in February the critically acclaimed television series from Sender Films called First Ascent: The Series is now available for purchase in a 3-disc box set.
Video Of Angie Payne’s FFA Of The Automator (V13) Now Online
DPM has the video of Angie Payne’s recent repeat of the RMNP, CO testpiece The Automator (V13)
2nd Ascent Of Monkey Wedding (V15) By Paul Robinson
It sounds like Paul Robinson has ended his 2 month trip to South Africa’s Rocklands with a bang
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Hayden Miller: I think one thing to consider is that at places li...
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Joe: Good example of the USA way, I go where I want and...
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Ramiel: Oh no, I totally agree that Maestri putting bolts ...
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Djshutthehellup: talking smack on the internet as if you're an aut...
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a-train: That should be keep "our" mountains clean and be...
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a-train: Good job boys! People who want the bolts there c...
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Video Friday – 1/27/2012
January 27, 2012
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Kruk & Kennedy Weigh In On Cerro Torre Controversy
January 26, 2012
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If Only We Could All Be Failures Like Adam Ondra
January 26, 2012
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Woods & Traversi Getting Things Done On The Frontrange
January 25, 2012
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The Plot Thickens On Cerro Torre
January 24, 2012
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Deep North: A Trip To The Arrigetch Peaks With Caldwell & Kennedy
January 23, 2012
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Video Friday – 1/20/2012
January 20, 2012
News & Notes
Understanding Patagonia
The news from the other day aside, things happening in Patagonia are usually outside my purview. It’s not that I don’t respect what climbers do there, it’s more that I have a hard time identifying with what it must be like to climb there since I’ve never done anything like it. Posts like this one from Mikey Schaefer that combine a story about a new route on the south face of Poincenot with some incredible photos sure do help though.
0 CommentsMore From Honnold On Too Big To Flail
Alex Honnold talks with PlanetMountain about his new highball in Bishop called Too Big To Flail:
3 CommentsThis might be the biggest line that I’ve seen at the Buttermilks but it’s hard to say for sure because there is so much rock out there. It’s definitely rare though to find such a high-quality line on such good rock.
Kennedy & Kruk Climb Compressor Route By “Fair Means”
A lot of sites, including Alpinist, have picked up on the update Colin Haley posted on his Facebook wall indicating that American Hayden Kennedy and Canadian Jason Kruk pulled off the long-awaited “fair-means” ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre’s Southeast Ridge in Patagonia. The line was infamously bolted using a gas-powered compressor drill by Cesare Maestri during the line’s first ascent in 1970, and this is the first time someone has successfully climbed the line without the use of this bolt ladder. No word on how they managed to pull this off without a camera crew and a slew of extra bolts to aid said camera crew. Developing…
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